Monitor problem. Blinking power light no display

  • Thread starter Thread starter yaro137
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yaro137

I have a Hyundai L90D+ monitor that served me well for the last couple
of years till yesterday. It worked as the extended monitor in Dual
View recently and all was fine. Suddenly after starting the computer
yesterday there was no image on the monitor and the power LED which
normally is blue when the monitor is on now keeps blinking orange or
goes off completely for a second or so. Most of the time it stays blue
though. I have to press the power button a couple of times now to turn
it off. Any ideas?
yaro
 
yaro137 said:
I have a Hyundai L90D+ monitor that served me well for the last couple
of years till yesterday. It worked as the extended monitor in Dual
View recently and all was fine. Suddenly after starting the computer
yesterday there was no image on the monitor and the power LED which
normally is blue when the monitor is on now keeps blinking orange or
goes off completely for a second or so. Most of the time it stays blue
though. I have to press the power button a couple of times now to turn
it off. Any ideas?
yaro

It could be a power issue. It looks like the power for the monitor
is provided by a power supply inside the monitor. And that means
at the very least, you'd need to open up the monitor to determine
the nature of the problem. And it is unlikely you'll find exact
replacement parts to replace it.

If the monitor had an external power source, like a 12V 3A adapter,
then you could test one of those. But when the power supply is inside
the monitor, such testing is more difficult.

Paul
 
It could be a power issue. It looks like the power for the monitor
is provided by a power supply inside the monitor. And that means
at the very least, you'd need to open up the monitor to determine
the nature of the problem. And it is unlikely you'll find exact
replacement parts to replace it.

If the monitor had an external power source, like a 12V 3A adapter,
then you could test one of those. But when the power supply is inside
the monitor, such testing is more difficult.

    Paul

I opened the monitor and can't find any burned elements. All
capacitors look good. Looks like a tough one to crack.
yaro
 
I had the same problem with an L50S.  It was inrepairable.

I think the last resource I can go to is to treat the circuit board
with a heat gun :)
Nothing to loose all to gain....
yaro
 
I think the last resource I can go to is to treat the circuit board
with a heat gun :)
Nothing to loose all to gain....
yaro

I heated it up and tested the circuit and it works fine so it must be
the inverter board then. When the blue light goes on and stays on for
a couple of seconds I can hear a click coming somewhere from the
circuit. at that point the light goes orange for a glimpse of an eye
and than off for a second or so and then it goes blue again and it all
repeats. It's probably something to do with one of the processors on
the inverter board then. Can't fix it but maybe I can get the inverter
on eBay.
yaro
 
I had same simliar, collection of web info, now mine ok, have fun!

The lcd has three parts the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the
inverter(power plug). You have 2 out of 3 working ok. Parts that go are the
backlight ccfl's, behind the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors,
all three take a bit of power from the inverter. The self test check that all
the lights are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4
light work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then
off, However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no perm screen
display(only temp), if that is the case the following may be of help...if
you put bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow,
text icons etc, ie still logic power passing(vga),then ....

(from a.n. other) after two weeks searching I finally find doctor living
stone http://www.aplusperfect.com/articles/lcd_capacitor_repair more fun
with paulbtorrent the takening the case bit off is like opening your wallet
a second time after buying a new LCD, but you must! smallest two
screw driver's flat headed, practice using two pennies stuck together()with
your fingers after, one little () move and inch and {} again, with
the case , it does not break, just need to lever open
[once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip inside!]
also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see a windows
screen , and that capacitors are one for a number of things that a make a
inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that however, to
replace all the capacitors on my inverter, was 11 capacitors, cost me $11
(uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder. So only cost me me $11
to try and see but no luck , still fun and I still can see the screen for 2
sec' at a time plus I have a spare set of caps now in the event that
the new one do go burst! you have to laugh really, what next , a new on/off
button, as you work though the whole thing !
mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not
wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from
another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the
inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc..) I
would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty challenging.
as that requires complete breakdown of your LCD, extraction of your
dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp... but I would like to say that I
it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen strips inside
[========] x 2 with wires that can connect back to the inverter with out any
desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter case remove (glass
plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4 were working (i!i
hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a secound ! order ccfl
and replace and going to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15"
in my 19' as it a 1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there,
hope the inverter does not miss the length, or the screen out put.
http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx OR MONITOR, I
when a head because I could get the inverter to keep the 4 going out of their
shell, but in the strip, using a spare, but then I broke a wire joint and
then broke a tube. But at least I found out a bit more about
inverters and ccfl's ! After hong konging a part a 20.1 for $8, plus a 15,
got it to work, the bottom of the screen looks like a cinema, dark at
the sides, will have to order another 20" cclf at some point, but at least
my HF207 is now working ok hence this note !paulbtorrent!
 
I had same simliar, collection of web info, now mine ok, have fun!

The lcd has three parts the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the
inverter(power plug). You have 2 out of 3 working ok.  Parts that go are the
backlight ccfl's, behind the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors,
all three take a bit of power from the inverter. The self test check thatall
the lights are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4
light work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then
off, However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no perm screen
display(only temp),  if that is the case the following may be of help....if
you put bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow,
text icons etc, ie still logic power passing(vga),then ....

(from a.n. other) after two weeks searching I finally find doctor living
stonehttp://www.aplusperfect.com/articles/lcd_capacitor_repairmore fun
with paulbtorrent the takening the case bit off is like opening your wallet
a second time after buying a new LCD, but you must! smallest two
screw driver's flat headed, practice using two pennies stuck together()with
your fingers after, one little () move and inch and {} again, with
the case , it does not break, just need to lever open
[once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip inside!]
also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see a windows
screen , and that capacitors  are one for a number of things that a make a
inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that however, to
replace all the capacitors on my inverter, was 11 capacitors, cost me $11
(uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder. So only cost me me $11
to try and see but no luck , still fun and I still can see the screen for2
sec' at a time plus I have a spare set of caps now in the event that
the new one do go burst! you have to laugh really, what next , a new on/off
button, as you work though the whole thing !
mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not
wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from
another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the
inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc..) I
would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty challenging..
as that requires complete breakdown of your LCD, extraction of your
dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp...  but I would like to say that I
it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen strips inside
[========] x 2 with wires that can connect back to the inverter with out any
desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter case remove (glass
plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4 were working (i!i
hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a secound ! order ccfl
and replace and going to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15"
in my 19' as it a 1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there,
hope the inverter does not miss the length, or the screen out put.http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspxOR MONITOR, I
when a head because I could get the inverter to keep the 4 going out of their
shell, but in the strip, using a spare, but then I broke a wire joint and
then broke a tube. But at least I found out a bit more about
inverters and ccfl's ! After hong konging a part a 20.1 for $8, plus a 15,
got it to work, the bottom of the screen looks like a cinema, dark at
the sides, will have to order another 20" cclf at some point, but at least
my HF207 is now working ok hence this note !paulbtorrent!

yaro137 said:
I have a Hyundai L90D+ monitor that served me well for the last couple
of years till yesterday. It worked as the extended monitor in Dual
View recently and all was fine. Suddenly after starting the computer
yesterday there was no image on the monitor and the power LED which
normally is blue when the monitor is on now keeps blinking orange or
goes off completely for a second or so. Most of the time it stays blue
though. I have to press the power button a couple of times now to turn
it off. Any ideas?
yaro
.

Well in my case it's not the ccfl but as you suggested I may try an
inverter from a different LCD of the same size if I find it cheap and
try to connect it to the display to see if that works. Hopefully it
won't screw the display completely up. Thanks
yaro
 
had same problem and read the posts about discarding the monitor and get a
new one. then I realized that may be the dvi connection on the monitor may be
malfunctioning. Lucky me the monitor had the option for vga connection. So I
connected the computer to the vga port of the monitor through an adaptor
(dvi-vga) and voila. The monitor is back on again. DVI connections on the
monitors are notorious how easy they malfunction.
 
had same problem and read the posts about discarding the monitor and get a
new one. then I realized that may be the dvi connection on the monitor may be
malfunctioning. Lucky me the monitor had the option for vga connection. So I
connected the computer to the vga port of the monitor through an adaptor
(dvi-vga) and voila. The monitor is back on again. DVI connections on the
monitors are notorious how easy they malfunction.

Can't be it in my case as it goes through that switching cycle without
any video cable connected.
yaro
 
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