Maxtor hard drive failed with clicking

  • Thread starter Thread starter haitao
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haitao

Hi,

My 200GB Maxtor Ultra ATA/133 (Model: 6Y200P0) is recentely dead after
an electrical break out. It clicks when it is powered on and the BIOS
of my desktop cannot detect its corrected information (model etc.).
The clicking is very similar to the "clicking" in the link of
http://www.data-recovery-hub.com/information/Diagnose/index.php. So my
guess is that either some electrical parts or mechanical parts failed
due to the break out and the read-write head of the drive cannot go to
its ready position. It is not a very important drive for me, but I
want to retrieve some data from it if there is an inexpensive way to do
it.

I heard that some people switch the PCB of hard drive to save data on a
problemic drive. Anyone has such experience and how does it work (do I
need a solder? Will the good one become dead also after switch and
switch back?)? I have another same model drive as the dead one, but
unfortunately the chips on the boards are different. Can I use the PCB
of this one for my dead drive?

Any software that I can use to save my drive and data on it?

Many thanks,

Haitao
 
haitao said:
Hi,

My 200GB Maxtor Ultra ATA/133 (Model: 6Y200P0) is recentely dead after
an electrical break out. It clicks when it is powered on and the BIOS
of my desktop cannot detect its corrected information (model etc.).
The clicking is very similar to the "clicking" in the link of
http://www.data-recovery-hub.com/information/Diagnose/index.php. So
my guess is that either some electrical parts or mechanical parts
failed due to the break out and the read-write head of the drive
cannot go to
its ready position. It is not a very important drive for me, but I
want to retrieve some data from it if there is an inexpensive way to
do it.

I heard that some people switch the PCB of hard drive to save data on
a
problemic drive. Anyone has such experience and how does it work (do
I need a solder? Will the good one become dead also after switch and
switch back?)? I have another same model drive as the dead one, but
unfortunately the chips on the boards are different. Can I use the
PCB of this one for my dead drive?

Any software that I can use to save my drive and data on it?
Click to expand...

Since the drive is clicking, there is nothing further you can do with
it. If the data on it was not backed up and is important, contact a
professional data recovery firm. My preference is DriveSavers
(www.drivesavers.com) but there are others such as Ontrack and Seagate
Data Recovery. These firms' services are not inexpensive, but only you
can determine the value of your data. If you want to retrieve the data,
do nothing more on the drive; the more you mess with it the more data
you will irreparably destroy.

Malke
 
haitao said:
Hi,

My 200GB Maxtor Ultra ATA/133 (Model: 6Y200P0) is recentely dead after
an electrical break out. It clicks when it is powered on and the BIOS
of my desktop cannot detect its corrected information (model etc.).
The clicking is very similar to the "clicking" in the link of
http://www.data-recovery-hub.com/information/Diagnose/index.php. So my
guess is that either some electrical parts or mechanical parts failed
due to the break out and the read-write head of the drive cannot go to
its ready position. It is not a very important drive for me, but I
want to retrieve some data from it if there is an inexpensive way to do
it.

I heard that some people switch the PCB of hard drive to save data on a
problemic drive. Anyone has such experience and how does it work (do I
need a solder? Will the good one become dead also after switch and
switch back?)? I have another same model drive as the dead one, but
unfortunately the chips on the boards are different. Can I use the PCB
of this one for my dead drive?

Any software that I can use to save my drive and data on it?

Many thanks,

Haitao
Click to expand...

I'm working on a drive right now with same problem, what your looking for is
a replacement logic board for the HD, It Has To Be An Exact Replacement
so don't look at just the label,

look on the logic board (circuit board on the drive) like I'm looking at a
Maxtor fish'n16+ 301252104 right now

since the drive is pretty new you should have some luck,
here is a link that I have dealt with before
http://www.driveguys.com/Modern/index.asp?CartId=6-ACCWARE-504799TRSNT319

also try goggling replacement logic board

Malke has no clue .

Good luck !

Mich...
 
Mich,

Thanks for your reply which give me some hope.

For the number you mentioned (fish'n16+ 301252104), do you mean the
number printed on the biggest chip on the logic board? Looks that most
vendor don't mention their chips in their ads. So how can I know which
chip it's using?

BTW, is it easy to detach the logic board?

Thanks,

Haitao
 
haitao said:
Mich,

Thanks for your reply which give me some hope.

For the number you mentioned (fish'n16+ 301252104), do you mean the
number printed on the biggest chip on the logic board? Looks that most
vendor don't mention their chips in their ads. So how can I know which
chip it's using?

BTW, is it easy to detach the logic board?

Thanks,

Haitao
Click to expand...

No not on a chip but on the logic board itself you know, the "green part"

it is easy to remove the logic board if you have the right tools, find a
torxs set that is 12 and under, like a torxs set that is 30 to 8 or 7 and
you now have the proper tool to remove the board, (you can also have some
luck with a regular "flat head" set (regular screw driver) if you can find a
tip that you can work into the screw.

Do not open the drive itself !!! your just gonna work with the logic
board.
this is a great link that is very detailed, study it well.
http://www.deadharddrive.com/

I wish you luck, I've been able to do this 3 times so far, but once the
"new" logic board burned out in two days, so if you get it to run, CLONE it
rightaway or something else but back it up.

good luck ...

Mich...
(e-mail address removed)
 
I am in bad luck!

I switched the logic board of this dead drive with one of my 120 GB
maxtor (6Y120P0) hard drive. There is small difference of the logic
boards, but the two drives have same firmware type (YAR41BW0). The
board model of my dead drive is 301862101 and the board model of the
120 GB drive is 301599100. From the Internet, I found that board
301862101 is a upgraded model of 301599100, with adding of a diode for
a stabler performance. So I think they should be exchengeable. My
results are as follows:

1. 200 GB drive (6Y200P0) with the board 301599100 from 120 GB drive
(6Y120P0): doesn't work; the problem remains with clunk from inside and
the drive cannt be recognized.

2. 120 GB drive (6Y120P0) with the board 301862101 from 200 GB dead
drive (6Y200P0): works without any trouble; it is still recognized by
my system as a 120 GB 6Y120P0 drive.

So now, it is clear that the clunk is from some mechanical failure
inside my 6Y200P0 drive. I don't know what is the exact sourse of
that, but its logic board is definitely good.

I checked the connections of the dead drive which is covered by the
logic board. Nothing weird! So I have to give up as this step. May
be next try I can do is to open the drive completely and check what is
wrong with the read/write head beam.

Anyone did this before?

Haitao
 
haitao said:
I am in bad luck!

I switched the logic board of this dead drive with one of my 120 GB
maxtor (6Y120P0) hard drive. There is small difference of the logic
boards, but the two drives have same firmware type (YAR41BW0). The
board model of my dead drive is 301862101 and the board model of the
120 GB drive is 301599100. From the Internet, I found that board
301862101 is a upgraded model of 301599100, with adding of a diode for
a stabler performance. So I think they should be exchengeable. My
results are as follows:

1. 200 GB drive (6Y200P0) with the board 301599100 from 120 GB drive
(6Y120P0): doesn't work; the problem remains with clunk from inside
and the drive cannt be recognized.

2. 120 GB drive (6Y120P0) with the board 301862101 from 200 GB dead
drive (6Y200P0): works without any trouble; it is still recognized by
my system as a 120 GB 6Y120P0 drive.

So now, it is clear that the clunk is from some mechanical failure
inside my 6Y200P0 drive. I don't know what is the exact sourse of
that, but its logic board is definitely good.

I checked the connections of the dead drive which is covered by the
logic board. Nothing weird! So I have to give up as this step. May
be next try I can do is to open the drive completely and check what is
wrong with the read/write head beam.

Anyone did this before?

Haitao
Click to expand...

You must be joking. We *told* you the clicking meant the drive was
physically damaged. It's fine that you decided to play around with it
yourself, but if the data on it is important, you'll need to send it to
a professional data recovery firm like DriveSavers. If you open up the
drive (and they are not all that easy to open), you will finish the job
of destroying it.

Malke
 
Just curious of what's happened inside the drive. The data on it is
not as important as the thousand dollars recovering fee (checked
several company for the price). It is better than to just trash it
without knowing anything after several days failed trying.

Haitao
 
Just curious of what's happened inside the drive. The data on it is
not as important as the thousand dollars recovering fee (checked
several company for the price). It is better than to just trash it
without knowing anything after several days failed trying.

Haitao
Click to expand...

From the description, it sounds as though the heads are thrashing the
stops. This will happen after the drive is aged and loses it position
data.
If you open the drive, which may not be very difficult at all, removing the
platters is the only hope of data rescue. Unfortunately, safe removal is
very difficult and how to retrieve the data after the platters are removed
becomes a major objective.

But hey, inside are the most powerful magnets known to man. Go for it!


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The 'clicking' sound generally means the mechanism (inside the casing) is
dead or on its way out. If you were to open a HDD (not recommended as you'll
lose everything that's on it, and it'll void your warranty), you'll see the
mech that brings the arm across the surface of the disc. That'll be the bit
that's dead! I wouldn't recommend openeing your hard disc as it will do
what's stated above, but if you find a cheap one like the ones you'd find in
old DOS systems, feel free to take it apart, it's quite interesting inside.

Anyway, enough of me blabbering. I'm sure if it's that important, data
recovery would be the better option, and if you're still under warranty
(usually 3 year RTB) with the manufacturer, ask your Data Recovery people for
you disk back and send it back to Mr HDD Land.


Why on earth have you got Maxtor anyway?
 
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