Keyboard is locked

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Lil' Abner

I have an old Zenith Data Systems Z-Station-GT
Motherboard is AA-655257-305
When booting, I get "Keyboard is detected", "mouse is detected" but shortly
thereafter I get "Keyboard Is Locked... Unlock It". The key is still with
the machine, but turning it either way doesn't make this go away. I tried
disconnecting the keylock from the motherboard... no help. Then I tried
putting a jumper on the two pins... that didn't help either.
Also tried a couple of other known working keyboards.
Do I consider the motherboard as "shot" or might there be a way to remedy
this?
 
I have an old Zenith Data Systems Z-Station-GT
Motherboard is AA-655257-305
When booting, I get "Keyboard is detected", "mouse is detected" but shortly
thereafter I get "Keyboard Is Locked... Unlock It". The key is still with
the machine, but turning it either way doesn't make this go away. I tried
disconnecting the keylock from the motherboard... no help. Then I tried
putting a jumper on the two pins... that didn't help either.
Also tried a couple of other known working keyboards.
Do I consider the motherboard as "shot" or might there be a way to remedy
this?
Click to expand...

Do you still get that message when there is no keyboard connected?
If so, perhaps there's a blown keyboard fuse? If that sounds possible, do
a continuity check on the fuse.

I know nothing of the bios on those, perhaps there's a setting or it could
be reset to defaults?
 
Do you still get that message when there is no keyboard connected?
If so, perhaps there's a blown keyboard fuse? If that sounds
possible, do a continuity check on the fuse.
Click to expand...
Never thought of that, so I tried it. Of course there's no keyboard
detected, but it doesn't bring up the locked keyboard message and
actually went ahead to boot into Windows. When in Windows, it popped up
the "no mouse detected" Window, although the mouse was connected.
I know nothing of the bios on those, perhaps there's a setting or it
could be reset to defaults?
Click to expand...
I can't get into BIOS, because the keyboard is locked.... :-)
Choices after the error message are F1 for Setup or esc to continue.
Neither does anything.
 
Never thought of that, so I tried it. Of course there's no keyboard
detected, but it doesn't bring up the locked keyboard message and
actually went ahead to boot into Windows. When in Windows, it popped up
the "no mouse detected" Window, although the mouse was connected.

I can't get into BIOS, because the keyboard is locked.... :-)
Choices after the error message are F1 for Setup or esc to continue.
Neither does anything.
Click to expand...

What's the history of the system? Was it working previously with no
configuration or hardware, etc, changes then suddenly one day this error
message?

If not, is it possible you've accidentally connected mouse to keyboard
port and vice-versa?

Resetting the board to defaults (clear CMOS) could be accomplished with a
motherboard jumper or removing the battery.
 
kony said:
What's the history of the system? Was it working previously with no
configuration or hardware, etc, changes then suddenly one day this
error message?

If not, is it possible you've accidentally connected mouse to keyboard
port and vice-versa?

Resetting the board to defaults (clear CMOS) could be accomplished
with a motherboard jumper or removing the battery.
Click to expand...

When I forgot to attach the keyboard to my Dell (I know) I was greeted
with: -

"keyboard not detected/attached - press F1 to continue or F2 t0 enter setup"

And I thought that was just an urban myth!
 
I have an old Zenith Data Systems Z-Station-GT
Motherboard is AA-655257-305
When booting, I get "Keyboard is detected", "mouse is detected" but shortly
thereafter I get "Keyboard Is Locked... Unlock It". The key is still with
the machine, but turning it either way doesn't make this go away. I tried
disconnecting the keylock from the motherboard... no help. Then I tried
putting a jumper on the two pins... that didn't help either.
Also tried a couple of other known working keyboards.
Do I consider the motherboard as "shot" or might there be a way to remedy
this?
Click to expand...

Is this an old 8088 system? Some of them used the older XT type keyboards.
Is this the original keyboard? If not, you might need to find an olde XT
keyboard, or an old one with the XT/AT switch. Since Zenith hasn't made
computers since the 286 days, that might be your problem

Jim
 
Is this an old 8088 system? Some of them used the older XT type
keyboards. Is this the original keyboard? If not, you might need to
find an olde XT keyboard, or an old one with the XT/AT switch. Since
Zenith hasn't made computers since the 286 days, that might be your
problem
Click to expand...

It's a Pentium 100. I fixed it up a few months back for a neighbor for
use on the internet. Put in a Zoom 56 baud modem... it worked really good
for a Pentium 100 (has Windows 95). Then one day he turned it on and there
was the error message.
The keyboard and mouse are PS/2... side by side. I do have one of those
old keyboards with the switch on it but don't have an adapter to get it
down to size. But his keyboard works fine on one of my computers. I can't
find a motherboard manual. The motherboard is jumperless. Battery is
removeable. It's been keeping time alright, so the battery is probably OK.
Screen says AMIBIOS (C)1992 American Megatrends Inc.
BIOS Version 1.00.07.CV2
There's also an option to push F1 right at the very first, but that
doesn't work either.
 
What's the history of the system? Was it working previously with no
configuration or hardware, etc, changes then suddenly one day this
error message? Yep.

If not, is it possible you've accidentally connected mouse to keyboard
port and vice-versa? Nope

Resetting the board to defaults (clear CMOS) could be accomplished with
a motherboard jumper or removing the battery.
Click to expand...
I just tried that... no help.
 
Do you still get that message when there is no keyboard connected?
If so, perhaps there's a blown keyboard fuse? If that sounds
possible, do a continuity check on the fuse.
Click to expand...

You may be on to something. Does this image at
http://www.mewnlite.com/mb.jpg look anything like a fuse? I suspect it
may be since I see the word "amp" next to it. And it IS right behind the
keyboard connector. About the only way I could check it is to take the
motherboard out and check it from underneath. If it checks bad, about my
only choice would be to solder something across it on the bottom. Doubt
like hell I could find a fuse like that anywhere!
That is if it *is* a fuse.... :-)
 
You may be on to something. Does this image at
http://www.mewnlite.com/mb.jpg look anything like a fuse? I suspect it
may be since I see the word "amp" next to it. And it IS right behind
the keyboard connector. About the only way I could check it is to take
the motherboard out and check it from underneath. If it checks bad,
about my only choice would be to solder something across it on the
bottom. Doubt like hell I could find a fuse like that anywhere!
That is if it *is* a fuse.... :-)
Click to expand...
Well, so much for that. I took the board out. Whatever it is, there's
continuity there...
Should I put it back together or just garbage can it now?
 
Well, so much for that. I took the board out. Whatever it is, there's
continuity there...
Should I put it back together or just garbage can it now?
Click to expand...


That is a fuse. There is no connection to it from the back of the board
AFAIK, it is a purely surface mounted component. Continuity would be
between the solder pads on each end of it... needle probes would be much
easier to use. The alternative would be to take the port pinout (easily
found via Google), note the 5V and ground pins, then using the needle
probes (or from the backside of the board using process of elimination)
measure to see if 5V is present.

Not much point in putting it back together if it doesn't work... you might
be able to ask a local mom-n-pop PC shop to hold the next old pentium box
they come across instead of throwing it away.

If you think you can desolder the fuse without damaging the pads or
surrounding components then you might try that, or take a thin piece of
wire, for example enameled magnet wire (enamel burnt off) that you've
barely pre-tinned with solder, and just sort of "drape" it over the fuse
and tack it on each end with the iron.

Or the agressive method, if you have locking forcepts then lock onto the
fuse, set the iron right in the middle and just keep heating it up till
both ends have melted free... at this point you have nothing to lose.

I have no idea how much this board is worth to you though, old pentium
boards are a dime-a-dozen if anyone has held onto them, instead of hitting
the trash even when they still worked.
 
That is a fuse. There is no connection to it from the back of the
board AFAIK, it is a purely surface mounted component. Continuity
would be between the solder pads on each end of it... needle probes
would be much easier to use. The alternative would be to take the
port pinout (easily found via Google), note the 5V and ground pins,
then using the needle probes (or from the backside of the board using
process of elimination) measure to see if 5V is present.

Not much point in putting it back together if it doesn't work... you
might be able to ask a local mom-n-pop PC shop to hold the next old
pentium box they come across instead of throwing it away.

If you think you can desolder the fuse without damaging the pads or
surrounding components then you might try that, or take a thin piece
of wire, for example enameled magnet wire (enamel burnt off) that
you've barely pre-tinned with solder, and just sort of "drape" it over
the fuse and tack it on each end with the iron.

Or the agressive method, if you have locking forcepts then lock onto
the fuse, set the iron right in the middle and just keep heating it up
till both ends have melted free... at this point you have nothing to
lose.

I have no idea how much this board is worth to you though, old pentium
boards are a dime-a-dozen if anyone has held onto them, instead of
hitting the trash even when they still worked.
Click to expand...
This thread is getting split a bit, but as I told someone else, I have
the board out and the "thing" has continuity. Actually, I *am* the mom
and pop computer shop around here.... minus the mom. I emptied out most
of my old junk a few months back, although I'm sure I didn't have a board
like this one. It's one of those with one slot with a card that has slots
running sideways on it... a "slimline" model. It's just a free gratis
project for a handicapped friend. I'm going to scrap this one and fix up
another old "clunker" (a 233) for him. He'll have to rearrange his
furniture... it's a full size tower and weighs a ton.... :-)
I appreciate all the help and suggestions you people have given me. I
see I have found a place to go if I get in a tight again!
 
This thread is getting split a bit, but as I told someone else, I have
the board out and the "thing" has continuity.
Click to expand...

If you checked the 'thing' without taking it out of the circuit, you
could simply be check the circuit...in the opposite directions...and
not checking for continuity across the fuse at all.

You need to disconnect at least one end of the 'thing' for proper
checking.


Have a nice week...

Trent

Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
 
If you checked the 'thing' without taking it out of the circuit, you
could simply be check the circuit...in the opposite directions...and
not checking for continuity across the fuse at all.

You need to disconnect at least one end of the 'thing' for proper
checking.
Click to expand...

Normally I'd agree, but with a keyboard fuse, once you've unpugged the
PS/2 devices there's nothing but the connector left on one end... unless
the port has severe physical damage and has the pins or traces all twisted
together, highly unlikely.
 
If you checked the 'thing' without taking it out of the circuit, you
could simply be check the circuit...in the opposite directions...and
not checking for continuity across the fuse at all.

You need to disconnect at least one end of the 'thing' for proper
checking.
Click to expand...

One end of it goes directly to a pin on the keyboard PS/2 connector. No
keyboard was connected.

Hey, I'm an A+ tech and I have a digital multimeter to prove it!
hehe.... sorry, just couldn't resist.
 
Lil' Abner said:
One end of it goes directly to a pin on the keyboard PS/2 connector. No
keyboard was connected.

Hey, I'm an A+ tech and I have a digital multimeter to prove it!
hehe.... sorry, just couldn't resist.
Click to expand...
Is it 3 1/2 digit? If not, don't tell w_tom! :-)

Virg Wall
 
Normally I'd agree, but with a keyboard fuse, once you've unpugged the
PS/2 devices there's nothing but the connector left on one end... unless
the port has severe physical damage and has the pins or traces all twisted
together, highly unlikely.
Click to expand...

Ah...that 'unless' and 'highly unlikely' stuff! lol


Have a nice week...

Trent

Follow Joan Rivers' example --- get pre-embalmed!
 
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