Just built a new system

  • Thread starter Thread starter Grigory Zaigralin
  • Start date Start date
G

Grigory Zaigralin

Just built a new system, with new motherboard, new hard drive,
new CPU, etc. and keep having this wierd glitch. Only happens
once every morning!

I turn on the computer, the moterboard gets powered, but there's
no video signal, and the drives are silent. I disconnect one of the
drives (both power & IDE, just power is not enough!) and then the
system boots up normally, from the second drive. I power it down,
reconnect the first drive, and it still boots OK, until the next
morning.

wtf?

Motherboard: FIC KT-748
CPU: Athlon XP 2400+
HD: two WDs 80gb
Memory: 1gb
 
Just built a new system, with new motherboard, new hard drive,
new CPU, etc. and keep having this wierd glitch. Only happens
once every morning!

I turn on the computer, the moterboard gets powered, but there's
no video signal, and the drives are silent. I disconnect one of the
drives (both power & IDE, just power is not enough!) and then the
system boots up normally, from the second drive. I power it down,
reconnect the first drive, and it still boots OK, until the next
morning.

wtf?

Motherboard: FIC KT-748
CPU: Athlon XP 2400+
HD: two WDs 80gb
Memory: 1gb
Click to expand...

Low end motherboard, might have something wrong with it that QC
missed, but seems more likley your power supply is too weak on it's
12V rail, needs replaced with different, name-brand.

What make/model/capacity power supply?


Dave
 
kony said:
Low end motherboard, might have something wrong with it that QC
missed, but seems more likley your power supply is too weak on it's
12V rail, needs replaced with different, name-brand.

What make/model/capacity power supply?
Click to expand...
Turbolink Switching Power Supply
LC-A350ATX (350w)
made in China I think

GZ
 
Turbolink Switching Power Supply
LC-A350ATX (350w)
made in China I think

GZ
Click to expand...



Not just a low-capacity unit, but deceivingly labeled, poor for any
capacity.

Try a good name-brand like Sparkle/Fortron, Antec, Delta, etc. Can't
guarantee it's the power supply but unless you have another available
to swap in for testing, that's the first part I'd replace.

Does your motherboard BIOS or WIndows utility show good voltage
levels? If you can check the voltage on the power supply leads with a
voltage meter that'd be good to do too, especially when it's in the
on-but-no-POST state.


Dave
 
kony said:
Does your motherboard BIOS or WIndows utility show good voltage
levels? If you can check the voltage on the power supply leads with a
voltage meter that'd be good to do too, especially when it's in the
on-but-no-POST state.
Click to expand...

After ~hour:

VCORE 1.61v
VCCVID 1.84v
3.3v 3.28v
+5v 4.94v
+12v 11.71v
-12v -11.78v
voltage battery 3.26v
CPU 49C
system 36C
CPU fan 2960rpm

Is this ok?
==
GZ
 
After ~hour:

VCORE 1.61v
VCCVID 1.84v
3.3v 3.28v
+5v 4.94v
+12v 11.71v
-12v -11.78v
voltage battery 3.26v
CPU 49C
system 36C
CPU fan 2960rpm

Is this ok?
==
GZ
Click to expand...

Those voltages are usually close enough to allow proper function, are
within the ATX spec, but in my experience having a 12V read that load
is borderline. That would be when read with a voltage meter, the 12V
reading is often low in the motherboards' BIOS or windows utility
when the level coming from the power supply is correct.

If the system were in front of me I'd swap in a different power
supply, and even if it didn't work still I'd leave the other power
supply in it because the original isn't very good.


Dave
 
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