Is there any chance of damage to a car's electrical system leaving a USB charger hooked up?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Metspitzer
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Metspitzer said:
Is there any chance of damage to a car's electrical system leaving a
USB charger hooked up?

I plan on getting one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021230

Any reason not to leave it in the cigarette lighter port? Would it
hurt to forget and leave a phone charging for several days?

One of the things that saves you in this case, is a device with
a lithium battery in it, will eventually stop charging. If a
mobile device drew 1 amp for 8 hours while charging, eventually
its internal charger will stop. You have enough amp-hours in the
car battery (12V at 50A-h say), to think it might safely charge
two devices one time, without draining the battery too low on
the car.

If you leave the phone "on", then it continuously draws power.
Which means the battery charger will run intermittently. Eventually,
it could drain the battery, given enough days.

An automotive battery, should not be drained too low. Automotive
batteries are not the "deep discharge" type like marine batteries are.
The difference in price, for the battery, is a factor of two or three.
A marine battery costs more than an automotive battery.

And thus, I would aim to not use more than 20 or 25% of the car battery
energy, after the engine is shut off. If you have 50A-h available
in the battery, you wouldn't want to use more than 10A-h. Maybe that
is 20 hours of 0.5A load from the 12V side of the adapter, enough to
provide 5V @ 1A on the output side during that time.

*******

Front and back view of the charger device. This is the PCB.

http://www.yxwic.com/uploadfile/20120210132330938.jpg

http://www.yxwic.com/uploadfile/20120210132344805.jpg

Here, the Chinese designer gets 5.1V at 2.999 amps from it,
with an input voltage of 13.5V (freshly charged car battery equiv.).
To make the 5.1V at 2.999 amps, it uses 13.5V at 1.36 amps.
It's 83.3% efficient. The waste heat in the dongle is 3.06
watts (so at really full load, you'll feel the heat). It'll
be warm on the outside. Since the Newegg reviewers claim
it doesn't deliver all that current, it'll actually be
less than 3W dissipation. Perhaps closer to 1W dissipation
in the body of the dongle. Why the charging devices don't
draw full current, is a mystery to me (improper resistor
strap pattern on D+/D- ???).

http://www.yxwic.com/uploadfile/20120210132246971.jpg

As near as I can tell, the CX8505 chip (only chip in the
adapter), doesn't have UVLO (under voltage lock out). It
will drain the car battery until the car battery is damaged,
given a chance. If you left a USB desk lamp plugged into the
charger for a week, the car battery will not be able to start
the car. A running phone, might take longer than a week to
drain it. You need to know a bit about the electrical behavior
of the things (loads) plugged into it, to predict the outcome.

http://www.yxwic.com/uploadfile/201221013354364166.pdf

The example circuit at the back of that datasheet, shows it
putting out 3.3V. But by altering the ratio between R1 and R2,
you can get other voltages, such as the 5V for this job. They'll
use different values for R1 and R2, in the actual adapter.
Then it'll make the needed 5V level.

Your phone or iPad or whatever, their drain pattern may
not be continuous, which is why they're a bit safer to
leave plugged in. Once the watt-hours of charging for the
lithium battery are complete, the future draining is a function
of the current operating state of the device. If your iPhone is
"sleeping" or "shut off", the draw may be quite small.
The USB desk lamp, was an example of a "dumb" electrical
load, that draws a steady current forever.

The CX8505 has a max input voltage of 30V. On a "load dump",
a car electrical system can be subject to as much as a
75V transient. At least, on older cars. It is for this
kind of reason, for me personally, I would unplug it when
not in usage. As long as I'm sitting next to it, I would
notice it smoking while I'm driving, if the CX8505 blows.

There is very little circuitry inside the adapter, and
I don't see anything added to make it more resilient,
or augment the functions of the CX8505. For example,
with the addition of a second chip. the CX8505 "EN" pin
can be used, to shut off the buck converter when the
car battery is too low. So if they wanted, they could
make the circuit a bit safer. I don't know enough about
automotive design, to understand how an effective "load
dump" protection can be provided (maybe a series pass
switch could be designed to disconnect the CX8505, during
a load dump). Things designed to work in cars, have to
be a lot more robust than the value printed on the car
battery (13.2V or whatever). That's why, connecting some
"home radio" in place of a proper automotive radio, could
be asking for trouble. It all depends on how ugly the
electrical system of the car is. And I've seen some
pretty gross estimates, for load dump transients.
It's a hostile environment for electronics.

Paul
 
Is there any chance of damage to a car's electrical system leaving a
USB charger hooked up?

I plan on getting one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021230

Any reason not to leave it in the cigarette lighter port? Would it
hurt to forget and leave a phone charging for several days?

My newer car is slant-eyed smart. The cigarette lighter shuts off the
GPS, whereas my truck is relatively damn dumbed-down for rebadged
Asian facilities manufactured to substandard specifications from the
same facilities' brandmake counterpoint. When parking the truck
awhile, in point, it's to the point now that I pop the hood and pull
the ground terminal off the battery. (Batteries go so far, even in
storage status, as being placed some distance directly up and off
earth/ground for a residual trace discharge capacity.) Especially with
winter temperatures and batteries, I even had to replace the NIMH in
the GPS this year. The truck's battery, as well, luckily was covered
under a WallyMart's no-quibble 3-yr replacement. (Now I've got to
pull the truck's radio or part of the console/dash, as the insertion
anchoring to the cigarette receptacle isn't worth shit, and managed to
push itself through to hang by bare wires behind its hole. Needle
noses might pull it through so I can bolster its anchoring, but,
aside, I'm done with any impositions on the battery. Suppose it boils
down to what more important, the talk or gyrating butt-halves for
walking. Bit like a drug. Vehicles typically approach $20K/US. What
it get, though. . . In India, their courts recently made the news
when not honoring [foreign imposed] drug copyrights being sold here
for x100 price takes. ...Bottles of ointment for $600 and such.
They've a car in India, btw, sold for $2K/US to "the people";- what do
our reporters do when setting a standard of response upon reviewing
the car, but to turn up their designer noses with a cultured scoff, of
course.)
 
....the car, but to turn up their designer noses with a cultured scoff,
of course.

--
Forgot to include that there was a formal Indian counterpoint/response
to that quip posed for lacing a degree of serious spaciousness as a
essential commodity to traveling in accustomed Western style: We
[Indians] haven't acquired your propensity for obesity.

Curious what demand meets on these little golf carts in red yellow I
see now spinning around.
 
Metspitzer said:
Is there any chance of damage to a car's electrical system leaving a
USB charger hooked up?

I plan on getting one of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021230

Any reason not to leave it in the cigarette lighter port? Would it
hurt to forget and leave a phone charging for several days?

If a charger has a transformer, it will always draw some current when
plugged into a live source. The ones typical you use in your home to
plug into a wall outlet or power strip are always drawing some power
whether or not they have a load (i.e., whether the charger is plugged
into a device or not). However, from what I've seen of a few USB car
chargers, there is no transformer. There may be a coil for use as an
inductor in the circuit but it is not a step-down transformer (no
secondary winding, not enough windings at all to make it a
transformer). The input side (from the battery) typically goes across
a capacitor (which could short or blow open) through a diode and into
an IC that regulates the output voltage and limits the current output.
A zener diode is used for protection to ensure the IC on failure
doesn't result in 12V for output; however, the heat produced in the
zener for clamping down errant high voltage means it would burn up
since there is no heatsink used inside this type of USB charger.

When plugged in and with no load, the cigar receptacled USB charger
should draw any power from your battery. There may be some leakage
current in the IC or across the cap but it is infinitesimal compared
to, say, the current draw of your car radio to maintain the time and
its memory. Only if the cap fails (shorts and then blows open), bad
wiring which causes a short, or other failure that produces
catastrophic failure would there be a current draw without load. The
charger should remain cool with no load.

Don't exceed the rated current draw of the charger. I see nothing in
the circuitry to "blow" in case of over amperage other than a zener
that will overheat and blow or burning out the IC both of which means
the charger is dead thereafter (when it blows, it's dead). There is
no fuse so there isn't one for you to replace. In fact, there is no
fuse or link to blow to protect the plugged in devices, either. It
looks like they're relying on a zener diode to clamp down the voltage
to 5.6V but there's nothing to dissipate the heat produced in that
small component so it'll overheat and burn out leaving no further
output over-amperage protection (since it is across the output lines
instead of inline with it). The safety to the plugged in devices
appears solely the responsibility of the IC. If it fails, your
devices would receive no power, too little power, or experience over
voltage. So I don't recommend leaving devices plugged into these type
of chargers. Leaving them unattended while charging also means the
charger could fail and it burns up and/or your device gets over
volted. The circuitry in these chargers is minimal without almost no,
if any, overvoltage protection.

Presumably you want to know about battery drain while the charger is
plugged into the cigarette lighter receptacle and with nothing plugged
into the charger. Obviously if you leave something plugged into the
charger that draws current then there will be a drain on your car
battery. If you leave your MP3 player continuously playing music when
you shutoff and leave the car then that power for the still-playing
MP3 player has to come from somewhere.

I noticed the unit is Rosewill branded. Hopefully the plastic used
for the housing isn't flammable should the unit short and burn out or
the user accidentally impinges an excessive current draw by a plugged
in device (and the IC fails to limit the current). Rosewill doesn't
manufacture anything. They spec out to the Chinese. If quality and,
in this case, flammability are not in their spec (something Rosewill
doesn't seem to specify) then you get their product that meets their
spec but nothing beyond. I don't know that beyond the contractor's
(Rosewill's) specs that the Chinese have to comply with US
regulations, like flammability. I saw nothing in the specs at Newegg
or at Rosewill stating the flammability rating of this device.
Remember that you will be leaving it plugged in unattended inside your
car. Sometimes Chinese craftmanship is good, sometimes bad. Depends
on the plant of manufacture and how detailed were the specs they were
given regarding manufacture. What happens if wires inside the unit
for the 12V contacts happen to short? If there is still enough
resistance in a contact short, the fuse might not blow, especially
since the cigarette lighter is designed to handle several amperes of
current. The wires heat up and probably burn apart but meanwhile
there is a lot of heat. That itself isn't a big problem since the
cigarette lighter receptacle is obviously made to contain the element
that heats up but what happens to that plastic shell for the charger?
Since I rarely see a flammability rating for Chinese stuff, the only
way to tell is to buy 2 and see what happens to 1 when you try to
ignite it. There is no fuse or fusible link inside these USB chargers
to prevent them from overheating during catastrophic failure. You
will find no way to open to replace a fuse. The tip contact end isn't
connected to a fuse inside. If the IC fails to limit the current or
it fails to limit the voltage and the non-heatsinked zener blows
trying to clamp down the voltage, your plugged devices will fry after
being overvolted or the charger's shell catches fire and might cause
worse damage. The circuitry inside these chargers is very minimal.
They don't have [room for] catastrophic failure protection.

For a working cigar receptacled USB charger, it should be cool when
nothing is plugged into the charger. It's when you draw power through
it and when it has to drop voltage from 12V to 5V that it will produce
heat. It may feel warm to the touch when you are drawing power from
it for plugged in devices. Alas, since the electronics are in the end
of the charger that goes into the cigar receptacle, you probably won't
feel any heat at the end that only encases the USB ports.

Because these chargers have no reasonable overvoltage or current
limiting protection and no fusing, I would test leaving the charger
plugged into the receptacle. Sit in the car, plug it in (with no
devices attached to it), wait 10-20 minutes, and feel if it is warm.
It shouldn't be warm. Then I'd feel okay leaving it plugged in. Of
course, it takes little effort to pull on it just enough to disconnect
the tip connector from the cigar receptacle's contact plate; however,
it's not the effort but remembering to do so when you leave the car.
I wouldn't leave the car unattended while using one of these to charge
devices. I'd be charging them while driving and when the devices
should NOT be used. You shouldn't be prattling on cell phones or
watching MP3 players while driving so use that time to charge the
devices. When you get to your destination, pull out the charger (not
necessarily all the way out but enough to disconnect).

You may get reports from others saying they have never had a problem
with a cigar receptacled USB charger. You're not them so do you
really want to rely on individual reports on usage regarding the
safety of your car? Just go read the reviews of powered USB hub at
Newegg to notice how many users report hot (overheating) USB ports or
devices that got fried by powered USB hubs. It happens. That it
doesn't happen to a few respondents here doesn't obviate that it does
happen.

To be safe, plug it in when you are using it to charge devices.
Charge while you are there in the vehicle and not using those devices.
Unplug when you leave the vehicle. This applies to all cigar
receptacled USB chargers, not just this one.

The above is my personal opinion based on the circuitry that I've seen
employed inside these cigar receptacled USB chargers. For better
statistics, just call your own car insurance agent to find out if
their company has any incidences of damage or fire caused by these
devices. It's just a phone call but make sure the rep actually
investigates the statistics rather than reporting their own personal
experience. If you Google around, you'll find reports by users
claiming the USB charger overheated (or the devices plugged into it)
and cause a fire.

Also check if your cigar receptacle actually has power when you turn
off the car. You might think you will be charging the plugged in
devices while you're away but the receptacle is dead and you return to
the devices in the same state or worse regarding power charge. If
your car is designed to disconnect the cigar receptacle when the car
is turned off then there is no problem in leaving the USB charger
always plugged in. Of course, that also means the charger isn't
charging anything while you are away but that's the safest setup
anyway.

Also remember that this charger is NOT providing the same 0.5A current
of USB ports in computers. It has "charging" ports to decrease
charging time. These charging ports can provide 2-3 amps of current.
If something goes wrong in the charger (or in the device), these
charging ports have more than enough current to fry your devices. In
particular, I see little or no overvolt or overamp protection in these
plug-in cigar receptacled USB chargers.

When charging with these unprotected over-amperaged chargers, you
should be there. If you're not there, don't charge there.
 
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