ipconfig says media is disconnected

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

New laptop with Vista Basic and I'm tryiong to connect it to my home network.
Plugged it into my wired router and nothing. So, I did an ipconfig /all and
for both the wireless and the nic card iget media disconnected and therefore
I get physical addresses of gibberish (00-16-D4-DE-8F-6D). Try and do an a
release and it says no peration can be performed while the media is
diisconnected.
So, how do you cponnect the media????????????
Thanks,
Charles
 
Charles,

Your physical address is of the correct form.

The implication is that your cable is either of the wrong type or is not
connected or is broken.
Does the light for the channel on your router light up when the cable is
inserted?
On most machines there are two lights associated with the Ethernet interface
one should light when the cable is connected. (The other flashes when
communications transit the card).

The term release does not apply to the physical address (also known as the
MAC or media access code).
The term release applies to the IP address that was obtained from a DHCP
host (the router).

There are two types of Ethernet cables straight and twisted. Normally you
would use a straight to connect a computer to a router. The twisted would be
to connect two computers without any intermediary. Newer/more expensive
routers can detect the cable type and automatically correct the condition.

Michael
 
Michael,
Thanks your reply is very informative. The router is a Linksys BEFSR41v3
and only has one light to signal connection status. That light is steadily
flashing on and off which according to the linksys manual means that it is
sending/transmitting data. In regards to the cable, I've tried three
different cables, two of which I've used to connect other laptops with, so
I'll assume I'm using the correct cable. Any other suggestiond would be
greatly appreciated!
 
On a picture of a BEFSR41 router I see 3 rows of lights in 5 columns.
The columns are 1 2 3 4 and WAN

I would expect that the WAN would have its link light on and activity
blinking.
If you unplug the cable to the computer (both ends) I would expect no lights
on for columns 1 2 3 4 (assume you have nothing else plugged in for testing
purposes) and neither light at the computer end .

Plugging the cable back in at port 1 (docs say it automatically determines
crossover straight cable types) there still should be no lights for 1 2 3 4.

Now plugging the cable in at the computer one light should light at the
computer port, the other may flash. The light link/activity on the router
should light now, and may flash a bit.
(On my dell the Ethernet connector has a small green led in upper left that
is the 'connected' light and another in upper right that is the 'activity'
light. All laptops that I have seen have had something similar)

If no lights in columns 1 2 3 4 at the router end and no lights at the
computer end it is possible that the interface is disabled.
If the interface is disabled you should have got 'nothing' when you did a
ipconfig /all, but might as well check anyway.
Do you have a icon in lower right with two computer screens? In your case
probably also has a red x on it.
If not, right click in the taskbar (bottom of screen) click properties,
notification area tab, under system icons, make sure network is checked.

Hovering over the icon will give you current state which is probably '..not
connected...' right click it and select network and sharing center. You will
probably get this computer' with red X to the Internet globe.

Clicking on the red X will give you a reason that it failed to connect to
the internet.
At least two possibilities 'local area connection is disabled' and 'a cable
is not plugged in ...'

If you get the 'disabled' message than the connection can be enabled, if
'cable not plugged in ...' then you have about exhausted your options, the
interface on you brand new computer is bad and you will have to take it
back.

(hmmmm, I expect that you have tried the other 2 3 4 ports on the router
also).

Michael
 
Michael,
Once again thanks for your very detailed help. I went through much of what
you suggested and some (a little) I had though of on my own.
However, I must apologize for wasting your time. I know I've wasted about 4
days (on & off)of my own time. On this Acer, there is a very tiny slide
switch on the front, to enable/disable the wireless conncetion. According to
Acer you can't have both on (wired/wireless) at the same time. That may very
well be the case (with Acer it is), but my Dell laptop has no switch and I
ran a wireless connection (to the Acer and I'm fairly sure, but maybe not, to
the internet also on my neighbors network ) and a wired connection (to my
router) at the same time with no problem. There is no switch on the Dell
(other than software to disable the wireless connection). So live and learn.
Years ago I helped a friend for an hour (over the phone) with a mouse that
wouldn't work and then asked, uh, is it plugged in?
One last question, Is the Dell setup the usual or is the Acer setup the usual?
Thanks again,
Charles
 
Charles,

I have had WAY more than my fair share of 'duh' moments!!

My Dell is an old inspiron 8100, no internal wireless so no 'switch' it does
allow me to have both a wireless (card) and wired. I know most laptops now
have internal wireless and have some way of turning off the wireless (saves
battery and needed to use on an airplane). I was unaware that, at least on
some laptops it is an either or condition with the wired.

Any kibitzers out there with info on this feature?

Michael
 
Michael,

Yes, me too, makes me cringe thinking about them. I too would like to hear
from others about this. Was Dell trying to save a few sheckels, uncaring
(who cares if you run out of power) or whatever, to put a hardware switch on
mine since the wireless card is internal (Inspiron 9400). Or maybe is it
because the stock battery is so much better (than Acer's) that it's a non
issue. This Acer (Aspire 3690) is not known for it's battery life. But then
of course the Acer was $350 and the Dell was $1100 (?-last year).

Maybe I should have read the online manual, but who reads those? ;-)
 
Charles,

On my neighbor's HP there is elongated control button above the keyboard
that lights up blue when the wireless is enabled (not only wireless uses the
battery but the light also). It is a button so may just tell the system to
disable wireless rather than control power to it in some physical way.
Have never checked to see if the wired goes away when the wireless is on
(she has never had it connected wired, first time she tries I may have the
answer, genius that I am :) )

Michael
 
Michael,

Well, at least on hers, it sounds like it's somewhat out of the way. On the
Acer, it's the same elongated button but it's on the front, (where you could
easily bump it) with an orange light for off and a green light for on (and
that's not in the manual). So, either way it eats up a little power even if
it is an led. next to that is an identical button which when flipped one way
says (currently) "no bluetooth device" and the other way "no 3G device".
That one doesn't stay left or right, it ends up returning to center but has a
light on both sides (I have no idea what colors).
Evidently, it seems like the thing to do these days, however it still
doesn't answer the question. Besides, why couldn't you be connected to the
internet two different ways. If it's just a quest of power, it's a big
assumption on Acer's part that if you're using a wireless network, you're not
plugged in to a/c power. If I have a wireless network in my house/office
with a docking station at my desk, it's a moot point.

And , hey, it's my father that alway used to say to me "genius that you
are". Funny how he got smarter as I got older. <grin>

Charles
 
Michael,

Baloney, baloney, baloney. It has nothing to do with the switch. It
bothered me too much to leave it alone, so I kept futzing (which usually
causes problems) and finally found out that it was a intermittantly (sp?) bad
port. I guess that the connection worked fine for long periods of time and
because I kept fooling with it has now gone permanently bad.
So, don't bother your neighbor. This was bad enough when I wanted to blame
this on Acer but now it's Linksys (or really me).

Do you have a preferred router that's easy to setup? I occasionally do need
aLL 4 wired ports and may go wireless (although not with the current Vista)
in the future. From what I read pren N is better/faster than draft N and
Belkin has the best customer support and warranty but not the greates router.
Linksys has a decent router but the worst support.

Charles
 
Charles,
Bad port on the router or the computer?

I have had good results with D-link stuff. My router is supplied by verizon
for their FIOS service (wireless ,4 wired ports).

From what I have read, no actual experience, N is all draft/pre/beta. Need
to use the same manufaturer and equipment versions for ALL items in the
network. Stuff works fast when close but drops off more rapidly than g does.

If you don't need wireless at the moment I would wait. I recently was
involved with trying to get a wireless setup in a large house that was
marginal at best at one end. Tried three different wireless routers, only
one that would work consistently was a 'range booster' model. I had figured
that that was just a marketing term but darned if it didn't actuall work!.

I have also had bad 'ports' that turned out to be damaged, wires in the
female connector, looking in I could see that the 'wires' were not aligned
anymore, took a pin and adjusted the position and cleaned with a alcohol
swab. Don't know which fixed the problem but it has not come back.


Michael
 
Michael,
Sorry, I should have specified. Bad port on the router. hence the reason
for the question about routers. Plus it's almost impossible (isn't it?) to
find a wired only router today. Almost all I've seen are 4 wired + wireless.
I've also fixed bad femaile connectors, but they were all RJ11. I guess
I'll take a look at this, it's just more wires. With the others it was
always two gold wires together and you could usually pop the errant back in
its slot.

Charles
 
Charles,
The last installation I did was in a small office next to public spaces.
Users are NOT computer savy and the idea that there would be a live wireless
access point when they did not have any wireless need didn't seem good. Even
if I disabled it, someone could simply reset the box and away it goes. So I
dug out a D-Link 4 port router from my stash and installed that.
I haven't been in market for routers for awhile so really can not comment.

Seems though that n-port switches are the thing to buy nowdays, especially
usefull for moving video around.

One other installation I did that did not need wireless, but had a wireless
router. Disabled the wireless, and removed the antenna (taped it to the
box). I would have added a terminator to the connector but didn't have one
at the time.

Michael
 
"On a picture of a BEFSR41 router I see 3 rows of lights in 5 columns."

I was re-reading your notes and came accross this but must have overlooked
it at the time. I went to the Linksys website and that's exactly what they
show for V 2.1 and some other model (I forget which). If I had had the 3
rows of lights things might have been easier, but I have V 3 and they dropped
2 of the 3 rows. Your choices on mine are green, green flashing or off,
which doesn't doesn't makes diagnosis real easy.

Anyway, I took a look at the port closely and can't see anything wrong with
it. I cleaned it and still nothing. Is it possible for the router software
to disable a port or at least make it unreconizable? The other thing that
threw me was that in the router setup software, the first thing it wants you
to do is connnect one of the computers directly to the internet. When I did
that with the Acer it did detect a connection but to an "unknown" network and
therefore the software didn't see the internet. No way to proceed to the
next step in setup. My intention was to set it up with whatever settings
were needed by the Acer.

Just thinking until I decide on a new router. I have to get rid of this
Linksys. It has given me trouble in the past.
Charles
 
Charles,
Just back from vacation in Canada

My Actiontec wireless router also only has one light for each hardwired link
(green off flashing).
I can use the router software to turn off 'all' the wired ports and can turn
off the wireless access, but not an individual wired port.

There is no setup software for my router (Verizon, FIOS, but the router just
sees a normal Ethernet port).

I know that some cable systems and some DSL systems don't like seeing
changes in the interface attached to them.
They check the MAC address and if it is not the one they expect they will
not issue IP addresses or talk to the item.
Usually takes several hours until their end resets or you have to make phone
call. I haven't tried that with my Verizon FIOS port.

Michael
(hope you are all straightened out by now)
 
Hi Michael,
I've vacationed in Canada. Lake Louise to be specific. Absolutely one of
the most beautifult places I've been.

I didn't think there was any software option to turn off an individual port.
For someone to devlop that there would have to be a reason why. I was
looking for an explanation as to why just one port went bad, but anything can
happan. Electronics usually go bad in the first 90 days but not always. Had
a 32" Samsung hi def LCD TV go bad after 3.5 yrs. Bad main board. $900
repair. Wasn't worth it especially since it didn't have a hi def tuner.
Replaced it with a 32" Sharp Aquos (w/hi def tuner) for $650 from Costco.
But I digress.

Everything is working fine now. One thing from before and I can't remember
(this gets worse as I get older) whether or not it involved this bad port or
whether it was just the P3 that was on the network. The only way I could get
that P3 (the one I replced with the Acer) to connect to the network was to go
into the properties of the network card, go to the advanced tab and under
flow control , take it off "auto" and put it on (again, I don't remember)
either 100 mb or 10 mb half duplex. Now (and I don't want to try it again
:-) ) was it the P3, the card or the bad port?

Anyway, once again, many thanks for all your help. It was grealty
appreciated and I learned quite a bit.

Charles
 
Back
Top