*Vanguard* said:
You never did elucidate on why the onboard network controller was "not
working". Depending on the vendor that puts together the motherboard, some
will add a couple tiny LEDs to the RJ45 socket into which you plug the cable
to connect to the onboard network controller. One is a link light and the
other shows activity (or conflicts). When you connect to the router, does
the link light go on that is on the backside connnector on your computer?
Do you have your router configured for dynamic DHCP configuration, or do you
manually configure static IP addresses?
When connected using your motherboard's backside network connector to the
router, can you then go to 192.168.0.1 to get at your router's
configuration? If so then the onboard network adapter is working.
Have you check your BIOS settings to ensure that you do not have the onboard
network controller disabled?
When you go to the Network applet to define a new connectoid, is the onboard
network controller (nVidia nForce) listed as an option so you can select it?
Have you then actually tried to define a connectoid that uses that network
device?
I found this thread via Google groups (it's no longer on my local ISP
Usenet server): did anyone figure out the solution here? I'm having
the exact same problem with my new Biostar motherboard. Answers to the
above questions: (1) no lights available, (2) Linksys router
configured for dynamic DHCP, (3) cannot access any network resource,
(4) yes; network controller enabled, although Biostar's documentation
really stinks, and it only lists "MAC LAN: Auto." It's sure not
disabled, (5) network controller is listed fine and operational by
Windows XP. It won't let me define any connectoid because it keeps
claiming the "network cable is unplugged." (Yes, it's plugged in.)
In fact, I have the old computer right next to it: if I plug the cable
into the old computer, it connects just fine. The cable and connection
is just fine.
The thing is, I'm afraid that if I just give up and return the
motherboard as defective, I'll get the same problem with the
replacement! I want to make *absolutely sure* that it's a hardware
problem. Thanks to anyone for your thoughts.