Ink Dried?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stephen Grossman
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Stephen Grossman

My HP PSC 1510 wont print color. I've rarely used color so I think its dry and
needs moistening. HP ignored that, advising cleaning the color cartridge's
electric
contacts with distilled water. Ive never removed the color cart so there's
little
chance that its contacts are dirty. What do you think?

Is this correct for moistening dry ink:
Ammonia 25%/water 75%
Windex (w/ammonia) 50%/water 50%

Are other window cleaners or common cleaning liquids useful for moistening
dry ink?

Is alcohol (isopropyl or rubbing/ethyl) useful for moistening dry ink?

For cleaning electrical contacts, what is good other than distilled water?

Please post and email (e-mail address removed)
 
Stephen said:
My HP PSC 1510 wont print color. I've rarely used color so I think its dry and
needs moistening. HP ignored that, advising cleaning the color cartridge's
electric
contacts with distilled water. Ive never removed the color cart so there's
little
chance that its contacts are dirty. What do you think?

Is this correct for moistening dry ink:
Ammonia 25%/water 75%
Windex (w/ammonia) 50%/water 50%

Are other window cleaners or common cleaning liquids useful for moistening
dry ink?

Is alcohol (isopropyl or rubbing/ethyl) useful for moistening dry ink?

For cleaning electrical contacts, what is good other than distilled water?

Please post and email (e-mail address removed)
Click to expand...
If your 1510 is anything like my 2110, it's entirely possible that your
color cart is empty, even though you don't think you've used it. A
little ink is used in the initialization cycle each time you turn the
printer on. In addition, depending on what you're printing, the printer
may use some of the color ink to enhance the black, unless you
specifically tell it to use black-cartridge-only.

That said, it's highly unusual for all colors of the tricolor cart to
stop simultaneously. It's quite possible for the contacts to become
dirty and/or corroded over time, even if you don't remove the cartridge.
The color inks are dye-based and thus water-soluble. If they are the
problem, water should be able to clear all but the most stubborn clogs.
Other contaminants (dust, greasy buildup from heating/cooking vapors,
etc.) might not be so easy. I've always had success with cleaning
contacts with alcohol.

You can try soaking the cart in some water to clear it, if you want. If
that doesn't work, try the solution you mentioned. You really have
nothing to lose. If they work, fine. If not, the next step is a new
cartridge, anyway - the same step you'd take next if you try nothing.

TJ
 
Stephen Grossman said:
My HP PSC 1510 wont print color. I've rarely used color so I think its dry
and
needs moistening. HP ignored that, advising cleaning the color cartridge's
electric contacts with distilled water. Ive never removed the color cart
so
there's little chance that its contacts are dirty. What do you think?
Click to expand...

Generally an electrical issue would cause banding or missing sections of one
or more colors, it is not at all likely that an electrical issue would cause
all colors to be missing. Do you get any error messages (such as "remove
and check left cartridge") or similar on the PC? What about the ink
levels - even though you think you rarely use color you may use it more than
you think. In particular, color ink is typically used for graphics, even
grayscale graphics. It would be very very rare for a cartridge with ink
remaining to be clogged completely in all three colors, I would expect
something else is going on. Check the warranty date on the cartridge as
shown at:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/genericDocument?lc=en&cc=us&docname=bua02014
It this is an original HP cartridge and still in warranty then contact HP or
your dealer for a replacement.

If a new cartridge works only for a few days or a week and then loses one or
more colors (with magenta the last to go) it could indicate you have a
problem with the capping station in the printer.
Is this correct for moistening dry ink:
Ammonia 25%/water 75%
Windex (w/ammonia) 50%/water 50%
Click to expand...

I would use only distilled water. For some inks the ammonia may react with
the ink and cause clogging. You can carefully blot the printhead on a damp
tissue, see if you get a stripe of cyan, yellow and magenta on the tissue.
For cleaning electrical contacts, what is good other than distilled water?
Click to expand...

I have heard suggestion of taking a clean dollar bill, fold it in quarters
and use that to clean the contacts. You do not want to use anything that
would leave residue or fibers on the contacts. But... for your case I do
not believe the contacts are an issue.

Regards,
Bob Headrick, MS MVP Printing/Imaging
 
My HP PSC 1510 wont print color. I've rarely used color so I think its dry and
needs moistening. HP ignored that, advising cleaning the color cartridge's
electric
contacts with distilled water. Ive never removed the color cart so there's
little
chance that its contacts are dirty. What do you think?
Click to expand...

It's possible.
Is this correct for moistening dry ink:
Ammonia 25%/water 75%
Windex (w/ammonia) 50%/water 50%

Are other window cleaners or common cleaning liquids useful for moistening
dry ink?

Is alcohol (isopropyl or rubbing/ethyl) useful for moistening dry ink?
Click to expand...

Rubbing alcohol has water and other oils in it, don't use it.

Are you sure there's still ink the cartridge? The printer does not
monitor the actual ink levels.
For cleaning electrical contacts, what is good other than distilled water?
Click to expand...

www.deoxit.com


Stephen
--
 
Stephen said:
Rubbing alcohol has water and other oils in it, don't use it.
Click to expand...

Stephen, I think that this caution has been repeated so many times that
people believe it without thinking. Where I live (California), rubbing
alcohol is simply 70% isopropyl alcohol (thinned with plain water --
probably distilled water so that Type 1 diabetics don't croak and sue
the alcohol company). I've asked two pharmacists about this -- they
confirm that rubbing alcohol is as I've stated (which is exactly how the
stuff is labeled!). I submit that the repeaters have been confusing
rubbing alcohol with Witch Hazel, which is a mixture with more stuff in it.
Are you sure there's still ink the cartridge? The printer does not
monitor the actual ink levels.


www.deoxit.com
Click to expand...

A very expensive and very good contact cleaner.

Our Bob Headrick has written here about the coating on HP ink cartridge
contacts -- an interesting read. My first tendency is to use alcohol in
this situation, but Bob's explanation's got me going for a contact
preparation that leaves a thin oil coating behind, instead (rather than
one of the other types of contact cleaner/preservatives).

Richard
 
Stephen, I think that this caution has been repeated so many times that
people believe it without thinking. Where I live (California), rubbing
alcohol is simply 70% isopropyl alcohol (thinned with plain water --
probably distilled water so that Type 1 diabetics don't croak and sue
the alcohol company). I've asked two pharmacists about this -- they
confirm that rubbing alcohol is as I've stated (which is exactly how the
stuff is labeled!). I submit that the repeaters have been confusing
rubbing alcohol with Witch Hazel, which is a mixture with more stuff in it.



A very expensive and very good contact cleaner.

Our Bob Headrick has written here about the coating on HP ink cartridge
contacts -- an interesting read. My first tendency is to use alcohol in
this situation, but Bob's explanation's got me going for a contact
preparation that leaves a thin oil coating behind, instead (rather than
one of the other types of contact cleaner/preservatives).

Richard
Click to expand...

Deoxit is almost amazing how it works - can use it on all metal
surfaces that conduct eletricity.
Alcohol conductive, so I would use it sparingly. If it gets absobed
into any materials, it can make that material conductive (rubber,
phenolics, etc.). For connectos and contacts , I ONLY use DeoxIT
products.
Mike.
 
My HP PSC 1510 wont print color. I've rarely used color so I think its dry and
needs moistening. HP ignored that, advising cleaning the color cartridge's
electric
contacts with distilled water. Ive never removed the color cart so there's
little
chance that its contacts are dirty. What do you think?

Is this correct for moistening dry ink:
Ammonia 25%/water 75%
Windex (w/ammonia) 50%/water 50%

Are other window cleaners or common cleaning liquids useful for moistening
dry ink?

Is alcohol (isopropyl or rubbing/ethyl) useful for moistening dry ink?

For cleaning electrical contacts, what is good other than distilled water?

Please post and email (e-mail address removed)
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the advice, especially for cleaning the contacts (which may
be dirty even
tho that cart was used mostly by automatic operations rather than my
deliberatel use.

My context, however, was the printer's continued printing of alignment
sheets because
one of the carts didnt print. A fixya.com post provided a no-cost, easy,
practical
workaround: turn printer on, then immediately "cancel" using the button on
the printer.
I must either fix my color cart or buy a new one. But, until i do that, my
printer does
not waste ink printing alignment sheets.
 
Stephen said:
Hewlett-Packard says that hurts the contacts but you say it works. Im confused.
Click to expand...
Listen to HP rather than me. I'm a farmer, not a printer tech. I suppose
it cleans the contacts, but apparently it removes some kind of
protective lubricant as well. I haven't had any trouble, but I've only
had to clean the contacts maybe four times in the four years I've had
the printer. YMMV.

TJ
 
TJ said:
Listen to HP rather than me. I'm a farmer, not a printer tech. I agree.
I suppose it cleans the contacts, but apparently it removes some kind
of protective lubricant as well. I haven't had any trouble, but I've
only had to clean the contacts maybe four times in the four years I've
had the printer. YMMV.

TJ
Click to expand...
 
Deoxit is almost amazing how it works - can use it on all metal
surfaces that conduct eletricity.
Alcohol conductive, so I would use it sparingly. If it gets absobed
into any materials, it can make that material conductive (rubber,
phenolics, etc.). For connectos and contacts , I ONLY use DeoxIT
products.
Mike.
Click to expand...

Mike

A bit OT here but I am interested in DeoxIT to restore some old
audio rotary (multi layer) switch contacts. These are
extremely hard to reach or I would have used a silver bearing
heatsink compound to resurface them (very conductive).

Have you any experience with this?? I cannot see what active
ingredients the product uses to remove oxidation and restore
the surface.

This would require a spraying of the controls. Any possible
application here??

Thanks!
 
Splork said:
Mike

A bit OT here but I am interested in DeoxIT to restore some old
audio rotary (multi layer) switch contacts. These are
extremely hard to reach or I would have used a silver bearing
heatsink compound to resurface them (very conductive).

Have you any experience with this?? I cannot see what active
ingredients the product uses to remove oxidation and restore
the surface.

This would require a spraying of the controls. Any possible
application here??

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I do remember using a contact cleaning spray for the old rotary channel
selectors on TV sets. I've also use it on electro-mechanical switches on
intercom system call boxes. I bought whatever they sold at Radio Shack and
it worked just fine.
 
I do remember using a contact cleaning spray for the old rotary channel
selectors on TV sets. I've also use it on electro-mechanical switches on
intercom system call boxes. I bought whatever they sold at Radio Shack and
it worked just fine.
Click to expand...
These particular ones are 30 years old and need something more
than the old contact cleaners. Fact.

I would literally like to get in there and add some silver
powder and have the blades rotate and pressure embed the silver
into the contact surfaces to renew them. They were not silver
originally but I thought I had just the ticket with silver
bearing heat sink compound, but the controls are impossible to
get to with it. The amound of disassembly required is
unthinkable. Spray required but something active.
 
Attention Readers

You will not read about people having these problem who use mfg recommended ink.

Splork wrote:

On Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:43:10 -0800, "Burt" <[email protected]> wrote:



"Splork" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...



On Fri, 14 Dec 2007 12:21:05 -0800 (PST), shaqtopz <[email protected]> wrote:



On Dec 10, 8:42 pm, Richard Steinfeld <[email protected]> wrote:



Stephen wrote:



Rubbing alcohol has water and other oils in it, don't use it.



Stephen, I think that this caution has been repeated so many times that people believe it without thinking. Where I live (California), rubbing alcohol is simply 70% isopropyl alcohol (thinned with plain water -- probably distilled water so that Type 1 diabetics don't croak and sue the alcohol company). I've asked two pharmacists about this -- they confirm that rubbing alcohol is as I've stated (which is exactly how the stuff is labeled!). I submit that the repeaters have been confusing rubbing alcohol with Witch Hazel, which is a mixture with more stuff in it.



Are you sure there's still ink the cartridge? The printer does not monitor the actual ink levels.



For cleaning electrical contacts, what is good other than distilled water?



www.deoxit.com



A very expensive and very good contact cleaner. Our Bob Headrick has written here about the coating on HP ink cartridge contacts -- an interesting read. My first tendency is to use alcohol in this situation, but Bob's explanation's got me going for a contact preparation that leaves a thin oil coating behind, instead (rather than one of the other types of contact cleaner/preservatives). Richard



Deoxit is almost amazing how it works - can use it on all metal surfaces that conduct eletricity. Alcohol conductive, so I would use it sparingly. If it gets absobed into any materials, it can make that material conductive (rubber, phenolics, etc.). For connectos and contacts , I ONLY use DeoxIT products. Mike.



Mike A bit OT here but I am interested in DeoxIT to restore some old audio rotary (multi layer) switch contacts. These are extremely hard to reach or I would have used a silver bearing heatsink compound to resurface them (very conductive). Have you any experience with this?? I cannot see what active ingredients the product uses to remove oxidation and restore the surface. This would require a spraying of the controls. Any possible application here?? Thanks!



I do remember using a contact cleaning spray for the old rotary channel selectors on TV sets. I've also use it on electro-mechanical switches on intercom system call boxes. I bought whatever they sold at Radio Shack and it worked just fine.



These particular ones are 30 years old and need something more than the old contact cleaners. Fact. I would literally like to get in there and add some silver powder and have the blades rotate and pressure embed the silver into the contact surfaces to renew them. They were not silver originally but I thought I had just the ticket with silver bearing heat sink compound, but the controls are impossible to get to with it. The amound of disassembly required is unthinkable. Spray required but something active.
 
measekite said:
Attention Readers

You will not read about people having these problem who use mfg recommended ink.
Click to expand...

Attention Readers.

Do not pay any attention to mouseshite's inane ramblings!

Jim Ford
 
Attention Readers

Beware

Jim Ford wrote: measekite wrote:
Attention Readers

You will not read about people having these problem who use mfg recommended ink.

Attention Readers.

Do not pay any attention to mouseshite's inane ramblings!

Jim Ford
 
recommended ink.

I used compatible carts, with no bugs, on my first 2 printers. But i
suppose that there are poor
quality compatibles. I read online talks, such as this, before buying from
a seller w/a good rep.
 
Doc said:
Isn't the ink itself water-based? Why would water content in the
alcohol be a problem?
Click to expand...

HP recommends distilled water. maybe rub alcohol has non-distilled water.
 
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