ID this "D3" on my video card???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Noozer
  • Start date Start date
N

Noozer

I have a PCI videocard that works fine, except that the horizontal sync is
"dirty" (picture is jittery - I'll post a sample in the next day or so...).
The only damage I can see on the card is what looks like an inductor marked
"4R7" and is screened on the board as "D3" (a diode???)

I've posted pictures at:

www.csd.ca/Board1.jpg
www.csd.ca/CloseUp.jpg

It's hard to see on the picture, but part of the material surrounding the
coil on this part is broken away, exposing the wire coil below. (The wire is
normally exposed on the sides only on this part)

Can someone tell me what this part actually is, and what value it may be so
I can find a replacement? Being large and surface mount it should be easy to
remove and replace.

The card is a PNY Geforce 2MX 200 card... (Ya, I know... but it's PCI and I
need it.)

Thanks!!
 
Looks like a power transistor to me even though the D stands for diode. D3
would be the part number if you had the schematic & or parts list it would
tell you the value. Surface mount components are the most sensitive to ESD.
Make sure you don't use too much heat and try to use a grounding strap when
soldering.

I did a search through some of my component cross reference software and
came up with various tolerances for the number 4R7. Is there something more
to the number that we cannot see in the pic?
 
Cowboy67 said:
Looks like a power transistor to me even though the D stands for diode. D3
would be the part number if you had the schematic & or parts list it would
tell you the value. Surface mount components are the most sensitive to ESD.
Make sure you don't use too much heat and try to use a grounding strap when
soldering.
Click to expand...

Being SMT is definately not an issue here. The pads are almost .2" square
and there are only two pads. Should be easier than pulling a hole mounted
capacitor.
I did a search through some of my component cross reference software and
came up with various tolerances for the number 4R7. Is there something more
to the number that we cannot see in the pic?
Click to expand...

It doesn't look like a transistor. Only two leads on it. It looks like
ferrite material with wire wrapped around the core. I guess there could be
something at the core. 4R7 is the only marking on the part.

I'm going to try and get a couple better pictures. Not an easy task with
this camera. It doesn't like to focus under 24" even in macro mode.
 
If you are doing this to save money, you would be better off just
buying a new board... http://tinyurl.com/yuuue

After you find a place to sell you a component, with a minimum cost of
$25.00 you could buy the new one.

Good luck!
 
cowboy67 said:
If you are doing this to save money, you would be better off just
buying a new board... http://tinyurl.com/yuuue

After you find a place to sell you a component, with a minimum cost of
$25.00 you could buy the new one.
Click to expand...

Not really trying to save money, but I'd rather not have to buy another
card. PCI cards aren't cheap... especially cards for Mac PC's. The BIOS on
this card should be able to run in a PC as well as a Mac.
 
Being SMT is definately not an issue here. The pads are almost .2" square
and there are only two pads. Should be easier than pulling a hole mounted
capacitor.
Click to expand...

Except that they're huge pads with smaller SMDs not "too" far away. I'd
find it easier to do a hole-mounted cap, yet wih a decent wattage iron it
should still be easy.

It doesn't look like a transistor. Only two leads on it. It looks like
ferrite material with wire wrapped around the core. I guess there could be
something at the core. 4R7 is the only marking on the part.
Click to expand...

It's not a transister, rather an Inductor, 4R7 is the mH (uH) value.
It may be similar to the following, or larger, but I don't know where you
find find ONE except perhaps off of another semi-moden, Geforce(1),
Radeon, or newer video card.
http://www.umec-web.com/products/pdf/mag_pdf/RSB805-4R7.pdf

I'm going to try and get a couple better pictures. Not an easy task with
this camera. It doesn't like to focus under 24" even in macro mode.
Click to expand...

Better pictures may not be needed, there's nothing more to see there
except whether the inductor is really damaged, which might be more
apparent from an angled side-shot. Side-shot would also show it's size,
height. I can't tell if it's just odd lighting or if the capacitor to the
bottom, left of that is domed, failing. If that cap is domed, personally
I'd replace the cap and try the card before touching the inductor.
 
I can't tell if it's just odd lighting or if the capacitor to the
bottom, left of that is domed, failing. If that cap is domed, personally
I'd replace the cap and try the card before touching the inductor.
Click to expand...

Note that the blank spot on the PCB just to the left of the inductor is
silkscreens for another capacitor that would be in parallel to the one
below that which I questioned in the previous post. You might consider
adding a cap, something low-ESR and 6.3-10V (circuit voltage should
definitely be 5V or lower) and at least 1000mF.
 
Being SMT is definately not an issue here. The pads are almost .2" square
Except that they're huge pads with smaller SMDs not "too" far away. I'd
find it easier to do a hole-mounted cap, yet wih a decent wattage iron it
should still be easy.
Click to expand...

Yup... won't be a problem
It's not a transister, rather an Inductor, 4R7 is the mH (uH) value.
It may be similar to the following, or larger, but I don't know where you
find find ONE except perhaps off of another semi-moden, Geforce(1),
Radeon, or newer video card.
http://www.umec-web.com/products/pdf/mag_pdf/RSB805-4R7.pdf
Click to expand...

Looks just like what I have.
Better pictures may not be needed, there's nothing more to see there
except whether the inductor is really damaged, which might be more
apparent from an angled side-shot. Side-shot would also show it's size,
height. I can't tell if it's just odd lighting or if the capacitor to the
bottom, left of that is domed, failing. If that cap is domed, personally
I'd replace the cap and try the card before touching the inductor.
Click to expand...

The new pics I posted earlier have a side shot and better top shot. You can
definately see the damage there. (Everything below the 4R7 marking is broken
from the top.

Cap is flat on top. If I could find replacements around here I'd probably
add the extra cap anyhow, but Calgary is not a great place for these kind of
parts. I doubt I'll be able to find a replacement inductor locally, but I'm
going to try.
 
Back
Top