HP LaserJet 8100/8150 Low Voltage Power Repair

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I have an HP LaserJet 8150 which is displaying a 50.1 Fuser error,
which I tracked down to the Low Voltage Power Supply's 24V rail being
dead. I poked around the power supply a bit, but nothing is
immediately obviously broken. unfortunately, a replacement power
supply is about $250-$400. Are there any components on this power
supply that are common failure points I should specifically check?
Thanks!
 
I assume you've already hit the repair FAQ on SMPS repair?

Also with these beasts, IIRC, there's possibly some involvement from the
logic circuits telling the PSU to turn on certain sections. This *can* be
just poor ribbon cable connections or open circuits.

Dave
 
I have an HP LaserJet 8150 which is displaying a 50.1 Fuser error,
which I tracked down to the Low Voltage Power Supply's 24V rail being
dead. I poked around the power supply a bit, but nothing is
immediately obviously broken. unfortunately, a replacement power
supply is about $250-$400.
Click to expand...

I am not sure where you are, but in the US a refurb C4265-69006 power supply is
available from HP for $101 with return of the bad unit. See
http://partsurfer.hp.com/cgi-bin/sp...e=main&cpric=&psrchmode=&partsrch=C4265-69006
or go to http://partsurfer.hp.com and search for the LaserJet 8150.

Regards,
Bob Headrick, not speaking for my employer HP


Regards
 
I did not know HP will swap it out for only $101. We're going to go
that route. Thanks!

Also, can anyone reccomend a good site on preventive maintence on these
printers? Unfortunately, service contracts were allowed to lapse on
these printers and I suspect these printers have been neglected, so I
would be interested in any tips/maintaince we can do (other than the
obvious of installing maintaince kits) to help keep them working well.
 
I did not know HP will swap it out for only $101. We're going to go
that route. Thanks!

Also, can anyone reccomend a good site on preventive maintence on these
printers? Unfortunately, service contracts were allowed to lapse on
these printers and I suspect these printers have been neglected, so I
would be interested in any tips/maintaince we can do (other than the
obvious of installing maintaince kits) to help keep them working well.
Click to expand...

Apart from the maintenance kits there is very little service needed on these,
the kits are recommended at 350,000 page intervals and you will need to reset
the counter each time you fit a kit. This printer is inclined to dump a little
toner which can be picked up with a dry lint free cloth easily, and they
generate paper dust just in front of the transfer charge roller, worth
vacuuming that out on a regular basis otherwise just clean up any dust or toner
that is sitting inside the printer cavity.
Tony
 
Tonywrote:
I did not know HP will swap it out for only $101. We're going to go
that route. Thanks!

Also, can anyone reccomend a good site on preventive maintence on these
printers? Unfortunately, service contracts were allowed to lapse on
these printers and I suspect these printers have been neglected, so I
would be interested in any tips/maintaince we can do (other than the
obvious of installing maintaince kits) to help keep them working well.
Click to expand...
Apart from the maintenance kits there is very little service needed on
these,
the kits are recommended at 350,000 page intervals and you will need
to reset
the counter each time you fit a kit. This printer is inclined to dump
a little
toner which can be picked up with a dry lint free cloth easily, and
they
generate paper dust just in front of the transfer charge roller, worth

vacuuming that out on a regular basis otherwise just clean up any dust
or toner
that is sitting inside the printer cavity.
Tony[/quote:6fb92d6a7f]

You must work on lightly used 5Si, 8000, 8100 and 8150 series machines
to say that - I do at least 5 a day for a series of bank mortgage
offices thru central Ky and a lot can go wrong with them if they are
put to the test. Yes the most general thing is maintenance kits
especially if cheapo kits (non-OEM) are used, they will generally
fail well before 350k but HP kits seem to run into 500k before
problems arise other than worn rollers - the blue tabbed rollers in
trays 2, 3 and optional 2000 or dual 500 sheet lower units. They wear
smooth and give (usually) a 13.1 jam without paper in the path. Other
common problems is the one listed - 50.1 fuser error, usually caused
by broken solder joints on the LVPS at the triac connections. 99.9%
of the time a reflow of the joints corrects the problem. As for the
$101 C4265-69006 LVPS - HP has had those non-stock for a long time
now (I've been checking for 6 months now), I think they list them but
don't use the number unless they have to send one out at their cost.
I haven't heard of anyone that has ordered and gotten one either.
Other problems are dried rollers, thru age or environment more than
wear and tear. The 2nd pass roller at the top of the PIU gets hard
and dried on the tires, the small molded rollers in the right door
get hard and slick, the rollers int he face down outfeed assy also
get hard and dried. I rebuild the PIU and outfeed with parts from
PartsMart in Georgia rather than buying a whole PIU or outfeed
(except for the mortgage office jobs - they buy the parts and want
whole assemblies ordered for speed despite paying me flat rate).
Registration rollers (rubber underneath) are also prone to getting
slick causing registration (top of form) errors. Greying of the
background is the HVPS going bad if you change toner, then transfer
roller, and it doesn't cure it. Side skew of the border especially
on letter where a box is around it like a paper path test sheet is a
bad carrier for the transfer roller so I try to get HP kits for my
own clients but I see this problem a lot with the aftermarket kits
supplied for the mortgage office jobs due to cheap quality and
generally a transfer roller only without the new black and stainless
carrier.

The 2000 sheet feeder option in itself is another PITA when they do
start having problems.
 
Tonywrote:
Click to expand...
[email protected] said:
I did not know HP will swap it out for only $101. We're going to go
that route. Thanks!

Also, can anyone reccomend a good site on preventive maintence on these
printers? Unfortunately, service contracts were allowed to lapse on
these printers and I suspect these printers have been neglected, so I
would be interested in any tips/maintaince we can do (other than the
obvious of installing maintaince kits) to help keep them working well.
Click to expand...
Apart from the maintenance kits there is very little service needed on
these,
the kits are recommended at 350,000 page intervals and you will need
to reset
the counter each time you fit a kit. This printer is inclined to dump
a little
toner which can be picked up with a dry lint free cloth easily, and
they
generate paper dust just in front of the transfer charge roller, worth

vacuuming that out on a regular basis otherwise just clean up any dust
or toner
that is sitting inside the printer cavity.
Tony[/quote:6fb92d6a7f]

You must work on lightly used 5Si, 8000, 8100 and 8150 series machines
to say that - I do at least 5 a day for a series of bank mortgage
offices thru central Ky and a lot can go wrong with them if they are
put to the test. Yes the most general thing is maintenance kits
especially if cheapo kits (non-OEM) are used, they will generally
fail well before 350k but HP kits seem to run into 500k before
problems arise other than worn rollers - the blue tabbed rollers in
trays 2, 3 and optional 2000 or dual 500 sheet lower units. They wear
smooth and give (usually) a 13.1 jam without paper in the path. Other
common problems is the one listed - 50.1 fuser error, usually caused
by broken solder joints on the LVPS at the triac connections. 99.9%
of the time a reflow of the joints corrects the problem. As for the
$101 C4265-69006 LVPS - HP has had those non-stock for a long time
now (I've been checking for 6 months now), I think they list them but
don't use the number unless they have to send one out at their cost.
I haven't heard of anyone that has ordered and gotten one either.
Other problems are dried rollers, thru age or environment more than
wear and tear. The 2nd pass roller at the top of the PIU gets hard
and dried on the tires, the small molded rollers in the right door
get hard and slick, the rollers int he face down outfeed assy also
get hard and dried. I rebuild the PIU and outfeed with parts from
PartsMart in Georgia rather than buying a whole PIU or outfeed
(except for the mortgage office jobs - they buy the parts and want
whole assemblies ordered for speed despite paying me flat rate).
Registration rollers (rubber underneath) are also prone to getting
slick causing registration (top of form) errors. Greying of the
background is the HVPS going bad if you change toner, then transfer
roller, and it doesn't cure it. Side skew of the border especially
on letter where a box is around it like a paper path test sheet is a
bad carrier for the transfer roller so I try to get HP kits for my
own clients but I see this problem a lot with the aftermarket kits
supplied for the mortgage office jobs due to cheap quality and
generally a transfer roller only without the new black and stainless
carrier.

The 2000 sheet feeder option in itself is another PITA when they do
start having problems.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, BTW I didn't recommend non-OEM maintenance kits. My largest 8150
customer, a university with 50+ 8150 printers (plus heaps,of other models) all
with 2000 sheet bins is always quoted OEM kit pricing, ever since they tried a
different service ecompany who use non-OEM kits and had premature failures.
Some of the printers have page counts of more than 3 million and they move them
around to try to even out the usage. For the usage they have the printers are
very reliable, I have had a small number of PIU, DC controller and HVPS
failures but these are rare. We do have some strange happenins as you would
expect in a university, like the support person who could not get the toner
cartridge to fit in the fuser slot. Yes the 2000 sheet feeders are difficult to
fix but hey that's what we're here for I guess.
Tony
 
SMPS (switch-mode power supplies). The SMPS will usually supply othe
voltages not just the 24V to the fuser, however all aupplies comin
from the switch-mode transformer ought to be contain fuses, i othe
words check the fuses first, theses could be transistor looking type
called IC protectors, they could be glass or ceramic tubular types o
even a low vaue metal film fusible resistor

If other voltages are there then you can be pretty certain that th
SMPS is working, you will need a test meter and have some basi
knowledge, prior to rectification from the 'chopper transformer' th
voltage will be around 18 KHz AC not the usual 50 or 60 Hz main
power frequency and will prove difficult to measure on most basi
test meters, the DC side after rectification is easily measured

Any electrolytic capacitors with gunge coming from them or swolle
tops are easily seen and could also be the cause

The fuser is a heater is the fuser element intact, again this coul
esily be tested with an 'El cheapo' test meter on the resistanc
range, infact this ought to be the first thing to look at

Dav
 
SMPS (switch-mode power supplies). The SMPS will usually supply othe
voltages not just the 24V to the fuser, however all supplies comin
from the switch-mode transformer ought to be contain fuses, in othe
words check the fuses first, theses could be transistor looking type
called IC protectors, they could be glass or ceramic tubular types o
even a low vaue metal film fusible resistor

If other voltages are there then you can be pretty certain that th
SMPS is working, you will need a test meter and have some basi
knowledge, prior to rectification from the 'chopper transformer' th
voltage will be around 18 KHz AC not the usual 50 or 60 Hz main
power frequency and will prove difficult to measure on most basi
test meters, the DC side after rectification is easily measured

Any electrolytic capacitors with gunge coming from them or swolle
tops are easily seen and could also be the cause

The fuser is a heater is the fuser element intact, again this coul
esily be tested with an 'El cheapo' test meter on the resistanc
range, infact this ought to be the first thing to look at

Dav
 
Tony I was just pointing out that many rebuilds, even ones from majo
suppliers we all know and use, don't seem to have the sam
quality...I give people both prices but very adimate that if they g
budget they get one that might cost more in the end. I try to wor
this into the contract/3rd party people's heads but they contnue t
look at cost to buy vs durability/dependabilty. I replace probabl
8-10 kits of differing models a week in 3 different cities for th
same mortgage company, they are finally coming around to a better 3r
party vendor for kits but still not the same HP quality. That's out o
the average 5 to 8 jobs per day for this company - they have 50
printers just in one department in the 5si and 8150 family. Norma
operations for them sees a lot of trees being killed - they get thei
paper in 2500 sheet boxes without the reams bundled - just 5 ream
worth in a white box, and they use those like any other office woul
a single ream. I've seen 500 sheets from tray 2 get used in the tim
I was working on a nearby printer

Their 5si's are avg 3 mil page counts, the 8150's go usually 1 mil t
4 depending on the dept. So far only one was pulled from service
water pipe broke overhead and leaked into the unit all night wit
power applied. It was a 5si so they replaced it with a new 8150N

Davy I'm not sure of your point but I am aware of the LVPS providin
other than fuser voltages and how it works, I was an electronic
technician for nuclear missile systems in the USAF for 20 yrs - 8 o
that I taught theory, troubleshooting and repair (not bragging jus
giving you background but I am proud of my service) and since 10 yr
in the field so I do a lot of bench and field repairs. I d
appreciate the info. I always check the fuser resistances and I hav
a working core that I hang onto to use for troubleshooting and as
temp fuser while waiting for new parts to keep people printing
Testing hot fusers's resistances isn't always accurate anyway. Looke
at my logs and of the last 85 printers I've worked (8150's) with 50.
errors only one was a fuser, 84 were repaired with an LVPS. Of th
84, 79 of them were contract work so I was unable to attempt solde
repair but using a jeweler's loupe I could see badly cracked joint
on all of them. The remainding 5 for locals were sucessfully repaire
by resoldering. In all this time only one has needed any fuses an
that was the AC inlet fuse

Since you in the UK use a different model LVPS and fuser for 220
operation you may also not experience the same problems that we do i
North America with the RG5-4300 and RG5-4357 solder joints an
consequently the 110v fusers. If you don't have very many problems
wish HP would hire the same vendor to make new replacements, the
seem to have it right on the 220's
 
Tony said:
(e-mail address removed)-spam.invalid (rhblakeman) wrote:

Tonywrote:
Click to expand...
(e-mail address removed) wrote:

I did not know HP will swap it out for only $101. We're going to

go


that route. Thanks!

Also, can anyone reccomend a good site on preventive maintence on

these


printers? Unfortunately, service contracts were allowed to lapse

on


these printers and I suspect these printers have been neglected, so

I


would be interested in any tips/maintaince we can do (other than

the


obvious of installing maintaince kits) to help keep them working
Click to expand...
well.


Apart from the maintenance kits there is very little service needed on
these,
the kits are recommended at 350,000 page intervals and you will need
to reset
the counter each time you fit a kit. This printer is inclined to dump
a little
toner which can be picked up with a dry lint free cloth easily, and
they
generate paper dust just in front of the transfer charge roller, worth

vacuuming that out on a regular basis otherwise just clean up any dust
or toner
that is sitting inside the printer cavity.
Tony[/quote:6fb92d6a7f]

You must work on lightly used 5Si, 8000, 8100 and 8150 series machines
to say that - I do at least 5 a day for a series of bank mortgage
offices thru central Ky and a lot can go wrong with them if they are
put to the test. Yes the most general thing is maintenance kits
especially if cheapo kits (non-OEM) are used, they will generally
fail well before 350k but HP kits seem to run into 500k before
problems arise other than worn rollers - the blue tabbed rollers in
trays 2, 3 and optional 2000 or dual 500 sheet lower units. They wear
smooth and give (usually) a 13.1 jam without paper in the path. Other
common problems is the one listed - 50.1 fuser error, usually caused
by broken solder joints on the LVPS at the triac connections. 99.9%
of the time a reflow of the joints corrects the problem. As for the
$101 C4265-69006 LVPS - HP has had those non-stock for a long time
now (I've been checking for 6 months now), I think they list them but
don't use the number unless they have to send one out at their cost.
I haven't heard of anyone that has ordered and gotten one either.
Other problems are dried rollers, thru age or environment more than
wear and tear. The 2nd pass roller at the top of the PIU gets hard
and dried on the tires, the small molded rollers in the right door
get hard and slick, the rollers int he face down outfeed assy also
get hard and dried. I rebuild the PIU and outfeed with parts from
PartsMart in Georgia rather than buying a whole PIU or outfeed
(except for the mortgage office jobs - they buy the parts and want
whole assemblies ordered for speed despite paying me flat rate).
Registration rollers (rubber underneath) are also prone to getting
slick causing registration (top of form) errors. Greying of the
background is the HVPS going bad if you change toner, then transfer
roller, and it doesn't cure it. Side skew of the border especially
on letter where a box is around it like a paper path test sheet is a
bad carrier for the transfer roller so I try to get HP kits for my
own clients but I see this problem a lot with the aftermarket kits
supplied for the mortgage office jobs due to cheap quality and
generally a transfer roller only without the new black and stainless
carrier.

The 2000 sheet feeder option in itself is another PITA when they do
start having problems.
Click to expand...

Fair enough, BTW I didn't recommend non-OEM maintenance kits. My largest 8150
*customer*,
Click to expand...

*TONY DA TIGER IS IN DA BUSINESS*
 
Tony I was just pointing out that many rebuilds, even ones from major
suppliers we all know and use, don't seem to have the same
quality...I give people both prices but very adimate that if they go
budget they get one that might cost more in the end. I try to work
this into the contract/3rd party people's heads but they contnue to
look at cost to buy vs durability/dependabilty. I replace probably
8-10 kits of differing models a week in 3 different cities for the
same mortgage company, they are finally coming around to a better 3rd
party vendor for kits but still not the same HP quality. That's out of
the average 5 to 8 jobs per day for this company - they have 50+
printers just in one department in the 5si and 8150 family. Normal
operations for them sees a lot of trees being killed - they get their
paper in 2500 sheet boxes without the reams bundled - just 5 reams
worth in a white box, and they use those like any other office would
a single ream. I've seen 500 sheets from tray 2 get used in the time
I was working on a nearby printer.

Their 5si's are avg 3 mil page counts, the 8150's go usually 1 mil to
4 depending on the dept. So far only one was pulled from service -
water pipe broke overhead and leaked into the unit all night with
power applied. It was a 5si so they replaced it with a new 8150N.

Davy I'm not sure of your point but I am aware of the LVPS providing
other than fuser voltages and how it works, I was an electronics
technician for nuclear missile systems in the USAF for 20 yrs - 8 of
that I taught theory, troubleshooting and repair (not bragging just
giving you background but I am proud of my service) and since 10 yrs
in the field so I do a lot of bench and field repairs. I do
appreciate the info. I always check the fuser resistances and I have
a working core that I hang onto to use for troubleshooting and as a
temp fuser while waiting for new parts to keep people printing.
Testing hot fusers's resistances isn't always accurate anyway. Looked
at my logs and of the last 85 printers I've worked (8150's) with 50.1
errors only one was a fuser, 84 were repaired with an LVPS. Of the
84, 79 of them were contract work so I was unable to attempt solder
repair but using a jeweler's loupe I could see badly cracked joints
on all of them. The remainding 5 for locals were sucessfully repaired
by resoldering. In all this time only one has needed any fuses and
that was the AC inlet fuse.

Since you in the UK use a different model LVPS and fuser for 220V
operation you may also not experience the same problems that we do in
North America with the RG5-4300 and RG5-4357 solder joints and
consequently the 110v fusers. If you don't have very many problems I
wish HP would hire the same vendor to make new replacements, they
seem to have it right on the 220's.
Click to expand...

Certainly not arguing with you, your approach to give the customer a choice but
to also provide professional advice is perfect.
I have seen maybe 1 or 2 fuser errors that were not related to the fuser
itself, maybe that is because we are 220 volts here.
Tony
 
Tony said:
(e-mail address removed)-spam.invalid (rhblakeman) wrote:



Certainly not arguing with you, your approach to give the customer a choice but
to also provide professional advice
Click to expand...
DATS *NOT *U TONY DA TIGER
 
Irwin said:
Therefore he might know something, unlike an inexperienced poser/lurker
like Measley!
Click to expand...
Yeah...I've never been able to follow that brainless drivel about being
in the business, as opposed to what? To not being in the business and
knowing nothing?
Well that one statement clearly points out what a complete moron
measershithead really is.
Clueless and brainless.
Frank
 
Frank said:
Yeah...I've never been able to follow that brainless drivel about
being in the business, as opposed to what? To not being in the
business and knowing nothing?
Well that one statement clearly points out what a complete moron I
really am.
Clueless and brainless. Frank
Click to expand...
 
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