How to find the 5v line on a power supply?

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Doc

Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do I
locate this line?

Thanks.
 
Doc said:
Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do
I
locate this line?

Thanks.
The cables that plug into your Hdrive are Red.Black.Black.Yellow
Red and one Black = 5V.
Yellow and one Black=12V.
 
Doc said:
Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do I
locate this line?

The pinout for the 20-pin ATX connector:

http://xtronics.com/reference/atx_pinout.htm

The pinout of the 24-pin connector (the most common type of 24-pin
connector; there are 3 types):

http://pinouts.ru/Power/btx_mbpower_pinout.shtml

+5V = red
+3.3V = orange (sometimes brown; blue with white stripe on some Dells)
+12V = yellow
+5V standby = purple
-12V = blue
-5V = white (not found on all power supplies)
 
Doc said:
Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do
I
locate this line?

Thanks.

Someone gave you bad advice. If there is any question at all about a power
supply, replace it. Don't **** around with a multimeter, or "range holding
multitester". Voltage dips that can cause instability will not necessarily
register on a multimeter, as the multimeter display won't update as fast as
the voltage regulator switches. Plus, not all PSUs fail gracefully. They
often destroy other connected components when they go. So while you are
dinking around trying to get voltage readings, the PSU is a ticking time
bomb that is ready to fry your mainboard (etc.) at any moment. So while you
might "capture" a voltage drop, this is like taking a picture of an airplane
as it explodes. Good to satisfy your own curiosity, but not good for the
airplane.

If you ever have a PSU that will show a bad reading on a multimeter, then
the multimeter will be redundant at that point, as there will be NO DOUBT in
your mind that the PSU is bad . . . even if the nearest multimeter is in the
next zip code. -Dave
 
Someone gave you bad advice. If there is any question at all about a power
supply, replace it.


That's rather ridiculous advice, since myriad problems could
be caused by a poor or failing PSU but one can't go and
replace the PSU every time Windows/etc hiccups. They would
need to reduce the variables, using the tools at their
disposal. A multimeter is one of those tools. Perhaps more
important is this question:

What did you think is a more valid indicator of PSU
malfunction? Ok, a 'scope, but who that had one, would have
an aversion to even using a 'meter?

Don't **** around with a multimeter, or "range holding
multitester". Voltage dips that can cause instability will not necessarily
register on a multimeter, as the multimeter display won't update as fast as
the voltage regulator switches.

Actually, yes they will register. If the event was so short
that a reasonable meter can't register it, it was also short
enough to be buffered by the bulk electrolytics that just
about any and all parts have. When a PSU problem becomes
evident through system malfunction, more often it can be
realized though a meter reading.
Plus, not all PSUs fail gracefully. They
often destroy other connected components when they go. So while you are
dinking around trying to get voltage readings, the PSU is a ticking time
bomb that is ready to fry your mainboard (etc.) at any moment. So while you
might "capture" a voltage drop, this is like taking a picture of an airplane
as it explodes. Good to satisfy your own curiosity, but not good for the
airplane.

Same is true of a brand new replacement, if you have a PSU
that might be working fine and introduce another PSU that is
not yet qualified or proven working properly (a multimeter
is nice here, too), simply adding that additional variable
is a potential to cause damage or just unnecessary expense
while not resolving anything. Replacement should be a last
resort if other methods of determining PSU fitness can't be
absolute.


If you ever have a PSU that will show a bad reading on a multimeter, then
the multimeter will be redundant at that point,

obviously not, because if one was measuring the PSU voltage
there was still the suspicion that the PSU might not be the
problem. One does not tend to replace parts that they feel
might not be the problem unless they happened to have
exhausted all other ideas and had a PSU lying around. How
do they know the PSU lying around is good? I suppose they
guess that it is if they don't take voltage readings. How
many system owners happen to have that spare known-good PSU
just lying around instead of having to order, wait, put the
$ into that? The percent is close to zero, if the # of
systems brought to me with a PSU problem is any indicator
then they did not have the spare, and did not know it was a
PSU problem else they would've just replaced it had they
known exactly what was needed. A meter is a source of info
so one does approach knowledge instead of guesses.
as there will be NO DOUBT in
your mind that the PSU is bad

No, at that point of a bad reading you have exactly what you
wanted, evidence to support your suspicion that it was, or
refute that it wasn't, a PSU problem. You could have the
ideal situation, KNOWING you have a psu problem based on the
bad reading instead of only guessing. Guessing can be
expensive if the system is anything more than a low-end box,
or time consuming if this system is set up for specific
needs/desires/etc and stores important data.

If there is a strong suspicion that the PSU is bad but that
the other parts are ok, it could be helpful to use an
(invaluable) load instead of critical parts, but having
tried the system with the PSU (pretty much manditory, that's
what was running the system up until that point), odds are
low that the PSU would have caused a problem, but be working
enough that it's much of a risk to
. . . even if the nearest multimeter is in the
next zip code.

Multimeter testing is never redundant, it is always the
first source of real information. OTHER guesses, anecdotal
evidence, software readings or even replacement of the PSU
and finding it then resolving the situation, can only be
redundant to actual determination though measurement, the
multimeter being the obvious cost-effective tool to do it.

This is all within a certain context though, that if one
needed to be told to measure a supply voltage with a meter,
they may not have the experience (or even the meter) to do
it. In such cases it would be better to just take the
system to an experienced technician if fast resolution is
important. They could instead buy the replacement PSU for
about the cost of the technician's bench fees, but they may
not get the system working either... and if the owner isn't
able to even use a multimeter, I'd have second thoughts
about having them muck around inside a system (that already
had a problem) TOO much. This may introduce yet another
problem, instead of keeping things static except only to
reduce the # of variables in troubleshooting.
 
That's rather ridiculous advice, since myriad problems could
be caused by a poor or failing PSU but one can't go and
replace the PSU every time Windows/etc hiccups.

I agree, to a point. But I still believe that replacing the power supply is
a good idea, for many reasons. First, even good name-brand power supplies
are surprisingly unreliable. The only component that fails almost as often
is a floppy drive, and those are becoming more of a rarity. So it's good to
have a spare power supply on hand anyway. You really lose nothing by
swapping it. And, you reduce the risk that, if the other power supply was
bad, it will damage other components. -Dave
 
Mike T. said:
I agree, to a point. But I still believe that replacing the power supply is
a good idea, for many reasons. First, even good name-brand power supplies
are surprisingly unreliable. The only component that fails almost as often
is a floppy drive, and those are becoming more of a rarity. So it's good to
have a spare power supply on hand anyway. You really lose nothing by
swapping it. And, you reduce the risk that, if the other power supply was
bad, it will damage other components. -Dave

It might be a moot point, apparently this Compaq power supply isn't
something you can just grab off the shelf, it's form is non-standard.
 
In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.misc Doc said:
Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do I
locate this line?

It is red. Ground is black.

Arno
 
I agree, to a point. But I still believe that replacing the power supply is
a good idea, for many reasons. First, even good name-brand power supplies
are surprisingly unreliable. The only component that fails almost as often
is a floppy drive, and those are becoming more of a rarity.

Err, no. Floppy drives almost never fail, I have several
that are a decade old and just needed the heads cleaned.
Cheap fans tend to fail quite often, and motherboards.
Maybe a PSU more often than that, but a PSU failure is not
more likely than "everything else" combined, including the
operating system itself becoming infected, malfunctioning or
being undermined by user action (configuration, registry,
drivers, etc).
So it's good to
have a spare power supply on hand anyway. You really lose nothing by
swapping it. And, you reduce the risk that, if the other power supply was
bad, it will damage other components. -Dave


If the other power supply were bad, it has already been
powering the system you now allege it would damage. I
suggest buying decent enough PSU that you have safety
shutdown on it. System had ran for years and it takes only
a few seconds to use a multimeter. Perhaps your method of
checking voltage needs reconsidered if you have actually
damaged gear while trying to take a voltage reading.

It's good to have a spare everything- board, video, power,
etc, but in the end there has to be reasonable suspicion it
was power, and without the multimeter reading there often is
not reasonable suspicion until AFTER one had changed the PSU
and then found the problem resolved... or not resolved, then
it was a waste of money and time. PSU do not fail often
enough that it is reasonable to simply assume it is bad and
immediately replace it, unless the PSU was a very poor match
to the system (or low quality generic) to begin with.
 
It might be a moot point, apparently this Compaq power supply isn't
something you can just grab off the shelf, it's form is non-standard.

A lot of Compaqs were, but still used standard connectors to
the mainboard. If the connector and wiring (voltages,
pinouts) are the same then it need not be mountable in the
chassis to just see if the system runs still or if there
were another problem. Does the label on the PSU give any
indicators? What system is this?

As someone already mentioned, the drive plugs will have 5V.
"usually" that is a red wire but proprietary gear including
Compaq's has been know to stray from the standard color
schemes from time to time. Looking at the 4 pin molex drive
plug, with the tapered side of the connector facing up, 5V
is the furthest left pin. If you accidentally had it upside
down and it measured 12V, just take the reading of the
opposite end since 5V is on one end, 12V on the other, and
two (usually black) grounds inbetween.

If this PSU is one Compaq made in the taller format, with a
92mm fan on the back, it may not supply 5VSB (I don't recall
for certain) but it supplies 3VSB. If you remain uncertain
about anything take some good pictures and post to a server,
linked here instead of posting the pictures themselves here.
 
Michael said:
Mike T. said:
Someone gave you bad advice. If there is any question at all about a
power supply, replace it. Don't **** around with a multimeter, or "range
holding multitester".
[snipped]
I agree.. Risking your motherboard and everything else plugged into it to
save $25 isn't worth it. Especially if your inexperenced at fixing power
supplies.

Here is a list of 400W power supplies for sale

http://www.pricewatch.com/power_supply_for_case/2638-1.htm

- Mike

I also agree as I lost six drives and every single board in a silent PSU
blowout.

Also, a computer PSU cannot be tested in the same way as your ordinary
home or hobby PSUs. Some light reading;

<http://computer.howstuffworks.com/power-supply.htm>
<http://www.silentpcreview.com/article148-page1.html>


Richard.
 
Doc said:
It might be a moot point, apparently this Compaq power supply isn't
something you can just grab off the shelf, it's form is non-standard.

Directron has a good selection of nonstandard and micro ATX (mATX)
power supplies. Don't try another supply unless its connector wires
match in color with those of the original supply's, pin for pin,
because some incompatible supplies use mechanically identical
connectors but have the wire colors arranged differently.

I'm not sure what a range holding meter is. Many meters will hold at
the peak voltage read, but this won't be very useful for your purpose.
Better would be a fast-responding meter that can record minimum and
maximum readings, as this can record the worst fluctuations over time.
Voltage meters can't diagnose all power supply problems, but in
practice supplies are OK when all their voltages remain well within
tolerance.
 
Err, no. Floppy drives almost never fail, I have several
that are a decade old and just needed the heads cleaned.

I had the highest failure rate with Mitsubishi 3.5" drives because
their load mechanism would bind and cause the heads to clamp at the
wrong time and scratch the disk or heads and sometimes even cause a
head to tear off. My next most troublesome floppy drives were TEACs
because their heads would go out of alignment.
 
I had the highest failure rate with Mitsubishi 3.5" drives because
their load mechanism would bind and cause the heads to clamp at the
wrong time and scratch the disk or heads and sometimes even cause a
head to tear off. My next most troublesome floppy drives were TEACs
because their heads would go out of alignment.


a spot of grease might help on the former
 
Directron has a good selection of nonstandard and micro ATX (mATX)
power supplies. Don't try another supply unless its connector wires
match in color with those of the original supply's, pin for pin,
because some incompatible supplies use mechanically identical
connectors but have the wire colors arranged differently.

If it's the supply type I suspect it is, it's proprietary in
pinout as well as form-factor. There were spares available
online the last time I looked, the best luck at finding them
is to enter the supply part/replacement numbers from it's
label into Google, which may also provide an alternate part
# that can also be sought.
 
Someone has suggested I test the 5V line on a power supply with a range
holding multitester to see if it's staying steady and within range. How do I
locate this line?

Thanks.

The power supply monitors its own voltage rails and lowers the POK
signal if any are below spec. When this happens, the motherboard
should normally reset/restart itself. Note that the voltage you
measure at the PSU will be somewhat higher than what you measure on
the motherboard. This is because of voltage drops in the harness and
at the connector itself.

- Franc Zabkar
 
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