Word count is now on the Reviewing ribbon under the Proofing group. You can
add this to your QAT. Right-click on the QAT and select Customise Quick
Access toolbar. Select All Commands and then scroll down to almost the end,
pick the Word Count command and click ADD.
With third party add-ins. you can get close to the legacy toolbars.
Personally, I'd recommend sticking with the Ribbons and make full use of the
QAT. You will get used to it but it take a while (months for me!).