heat problem on A7N8X-dl...

  • Thread starter Thread starter J.F.K
  • Start date Start date
J

J.F.K

Hey,

I've just installed an xp3000 barton on this one, but it runs very hot,
about 60 degrees celcius, and only windows xp is running...
The cpu is supposed to get 1,65v, and i my bios (the newest one 1007), there
is only one possible setting and that is 1,85v.
My board is rev. 1.04, and I have just flashed the bios from 1002 to 1007,
and I have reset the bios before i started up.
Earlier my bios could set many different voltages, but now only 1,85v, and I
think that this is the reason for the high temperature.

Can anyone help me out??? Please...

--



best regards John


"Unfortunately, no one can be told what the Matrix is.
You have to see it for yourself"
 
J.F.K said:
Hey,

I've just installed an xp3000 barton on this one, but it runs very
hot, about 60 degrees celcius, and only windows xp is running...
The cpu is supposed to get 1,65v, and i my bios (the newest one
1007), there is only one possible setting and that is 1,85v.
My board is rev. 1.04, and I have just flashed the bios from 1002 to
1007, and I have reset the bios before i started up.
Earlier my bios could set many different voltages, but now only
1,85v, and I think that this is the reason for the high temperature.

Can anyone help me out??? Please...
Click to expand...



I'm guessing you used Asus Update to flash the BIOS.


http://www.asus.com.tw/support/download/item.aspx?ModelName=A7N8X Deluxe&Type=Latest

Make sure you have the right bin file for your PCB revision.
The Award Flash utility. 8.24B is on the bottom of the page.




At the A:\ prompt, type something similar to the following:

awdflash xxxxxxxx.bin sn/py/cc/cd/cp/LD/E will delete all old BIOS info
during a flash.
awdflash xxxxxxxx.bin /py/cc/cd/cp/LD/E will do the same and prompt
to backup the old BIOS.

Where awdflash is the name of the flashing utility and xxxxxxx.bin is the
name of the ROM file. Change the name and/or extension as needed. Note: all
spaces on command line are single spaces.
 
S.Heenan said:
I'm guessing you used Asus Update to flash the BIOS.


http://www.asus.com.tw/support/download/item.aspx?ModelName=A7N8X Deluxe&Type=Latest

Make sure you have the right bin file for your PCB revision.
The Award Flash utility. 8.24B is on the bottom of the page.




At the A:\ prompt, type something similar to the following:

awdflash xxxxxxxx.bin sn/py/cc/cd/cp/LD/E will delete all old BIOS info
during a flash.
awdflash xxxxxxxx.bin /py/cc/cd/cp/LD/E will do the same and prompt
to backup the old BIOS.

Where awdflash is the name of the flashing utility and xxxxxxx.bin is the
name of the ROM file. Change the name and/or extension as needed. Note: all
spaces on command line are single spaces.
Click to expand...
No I have not used Asus Update to flash the BIOS, I used Awardflash utility.
8.24B, and did it just as Asus explaned it at this site:
http://taiwan.asus.com.tw/support/english/techref/bios/awdflash.aspx

Therefore I don't see that I have done something wrong...


John

by the way I have been very carefull making sure that I used the right files
with my moboard,
 
J.F.K said:
No I have not used Asus Update to flash the BIOS, I used Awardflash
utility.
8.24B, and did it just as Asus explaned it at this site:
Click to expand...



Asus has had file corruption issues on the website in the past.

Use the following utility to verify the MD5 checksum of the AN8D1007.BIN
file. It should be
6fdefd329df6c0e3c677d272bf7babca
http://winmd5sum.solidblue.biz/

(I realize this may be grasping at straws)


Even using the Award Flash utility may leave unwanted data on the flash
EEPROM. Try ver 1007 again using the command line switches I've listed
above. If that doesn't work, revert to the 1006 version.

Lastly, use a new floppy. Run chkdsk or scandisk to insure it is free of
errors, before flashing.
 
S.Heenan said:
Asus has had file corruption issues on the website in the past.

Use the following utility to verify the MD5 checksum of the AN8D1007.BIN
file. It should be
6fdefd329df6c0e3c677d272bf7babca
http://winmd5sum.solidblue.biz/

(I realize this may be grasping at straws)


Even using the Award Flash utility may leave unwanted data on the flash
EEPROM. Try ver 1007 again using the command line switches I've listed
above. If that doesn't work, revert to the 1006 version.

Lastly, use a new floppy. Run chkdsk or scandisk to insure it is free of
errors, before flashing.
Click to expand...

Now I have done all of the above, the checksum is also correct...
Then I went for the Uber bios bootdisk image ver. 1004, and that was easy
;-) but still I only have the Vcore og 1,85 to sellect from, is it bad for
my xp3000 to run with this Vcore?
The command line from Uber bios was: Awdflash.exe AD1004US.BIN /py /sn /cd
/cp /cc /LD /R
How do I know what these parameters do?
And the only bios I've not used is 1006, should I try this one?


John
 
J.F.K said:
Now I have done all of the above, the checksum is also correct...
Then I went for the Uber bios bootdisk image ver. 1004, and that was
easy ;-) but still I only have the Vcore og 1,85 to sellect from, is
it bad for my xp3000 to run with this Vcore?
The command line from Uber bios was: Awdflash.exe AD1004US.BIN /py
/sn /cd /cp /cc /LD /R
How do I know what these parameters do?
And the only bios I've not used is 1006, should I try this one?
Click to expand...


If you type awdflash /? at the command line, it will tell you which switch
is which.

If memory serves: py=program sn=do not ask to backup original cc=clear
CMOS after flashing cd=clear DMI pool cp=clear PNP data LD=clear CMOS
after flashing without the "F1 or Del" message R=reset after programming.

It's rather odd you only have the one voltage choice. At 1.85V it is a
little high since the default is 1.65V. It shouldn't cause any harm to the
CPU, unless it becomes very hot at some point.

Try the 1006 BIOS. Use the same command switches.
 
"J.F.K" said:
Now I have done all of the above, the checksum is also correct...
Then I went for the Uber bios bootdisk image ver. 1004, and that was easy
;-) but still I only have the Vcore og 1,85 to sellect from, is it bad for
my xp3000 to run with this Vcore?
The command line from Uber bios was: Awdflash.exe AD1004US.BIN /py /sn /cd
/cp /cc /LD /R
How do I know what these parameters do?
And the only bios I've not used is 1006, should I try this one?


John
Click to expand...

Here is a table of VID code 5 bit values and the resulting Vcore
requested. This is from a Model 4 processor, and I don't know if
all Athlon processors use the same table or not.

Table 20. VID[4:0] Code to Voltage Definition
VID[4:0] VCC_CORE(V) VID[4:0] VCC_CORE(V)
00000 1.850 10000 1.450
00001 1.825 10001 1.425
00010 1.800 10010 1.400
00011 1.775 10011 1.375
00100 1.750 10100 1.350
00101 1.725 10101 1.325
00110 1.700 10110 1.300
00111 1.675 10111 1.275
01000 1.650 11000 1.250
01001 1.625 11001 1.225
01010 1.600 11010 1.200
01011 1.575 11011 1.175
01100 1.550 11100 1.150
01101 1.525 11101 1.125
01110 1.500 11110 1.100
01111 1.475 11111 No CPU

Notice how the difference between 1.65 and 1.85 is a single bit.
Some people do a "wire trick" to boost voltage, on boards that
are not adjustable. It is possible someone has modified the
bridges on the top of the processor, or put a "shorting wire"
in the socket of your motherboard, on the processor itself,
or even soldered a wire to the back of the socket. Remove
the processor from the socket and verify you are not the
victim of "VID modding".

HTH,
Paul
 
S.Heenan said:
If you type awdflash /? at the command line, it will tell you which switch
is which.

If memory serves: py=program sn=do not ask to backup original cc=clear
CMOS after flashing cd=clear DMI pool cp=clear PNP data LD=clear CMOS
after flashing without the "F1 or Del" message R=reset after programming.

It's rather odd you only have the one voltage choice. At 1.85V it is a
little high since the default is 1.65V. It shouldn't cause any harm to the
CPU, unless it becomes very hot at some point.

Try the 1006 BIOS. Use the same command switches.
Click to expand...
I've not yet tried the 1006 bios, but I've tried some overcloking, why is it
that I cant go below the multiplyer 13, but I can run whitout problems at
13,5x and 14x... Even 14x170 (2380MHz), whitout any probs.
This I tought was cool, but I still am a little irritated about the Vcore
set to 1,85v. The temp was abuot 67 degrees celcious, after playing for
about 20min.
Does this mean my xp3000 is locked or unlocked?

John
 
J.F.K said:
I've not yet tried the 1006 bios, but I've tried some overcloking,
why is it that I cant go below the multiplyer 13, but I can run
whitout problems at 13,5x and 14x... Even 14x170 (2380MHz), whitout
any probs.
This I tought was cool, but I still am a little irritated about the
Vcore set to 1,85v. The temp was abuot 67 degrees celcious, after
playing for about 20min.
Does this mean my xp3000 is locked or unlocked?
Click to expand...


Sounds like it's unlocked to me, since the native multiplier is 13x. The
Asus board lcaks the 5th multiplier bit, so multipliers below 13x are
unavailable, unless a particular L3 bridge is opened.

Did you read the reply from Paul concerning VID modding ? Sounds like he
might have something there. It is also possible that a bridge on top of the
CPU is shorted or open when it shouldn't be. You might want to examine it
closely.
 
S.Heenan said:
Sounds like it's unlocked to me, since the native multiplier is 13x. The
Asus board lcaks the 5th multiplier bit, so multipliers below 13x are
unavailable, unless a particular L3 bridge is opened.

Did you read the reply from Paul concerning VID modding ? Sounds like he
might have something there. It is also possible that a bridge on top of the
CPU is shorted or open when it shouldn't be. You might want to examine it
closely.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks :-) but what exactly am I looking for on top of the cpu? I only
know that I bought the cpu from af computershop in town, so it's a new one.
But who could be interrested in modding a cpu before sale?
By the way all of the xp-cpu's I've had were all som kind of brown colour,
but this one is dark-green, and the numbers are:

AXDA3000DKV4D 9725537200532

AQUCA 0321TPAW

27493

And all of the pictures that I found on the internet, og the xp3000 has the
last number as: 27488, were my is 27493, what does that mean?

John
 
J.F.K said:
Ok thanks :-) but what exactly am I looking for on top of the cpu? I
only know that I bought the cpu from af computershop in town, so it's
a new one. But who could be interrested in modding a cpu before sale?
By the way all of the xp-cpu's I've had were all som kind of brown
colour, but this one is dark-green, and the numbers are:

AXDA3000DKV4D 9725537200532

AQUCA 0321TPAW

27493

And all of the pictures that I found on the internet, og the xp3000
has the last number as: 27488, were my is 27493, what does that mean?
Click to expand...



Your CPU is indeed a 333FSB AthlonXP 3000+ Barton with 512KB L2 cache,
nominal 1.65V. Produced the 21st week of 2003. Stepping is AQUCA. I do not
know the meaning of "27493".

Examine the "bridges" on top of the CPU, with a magnifying glass. The L1 row
::::: will have burn marks where a laser cut the traces. This is what made
your CPU unlocked. Take note of any scratches or excess thermal compound.
Since you've removed the heatsink, you will need to clean the CPU and apply
fresh paste.

As Paul suggests, also examine the bottom of the CPU for signs of modding.
ie traces of conductive pen; thin stands of wire, etc. Do the same to the
white ZIF socket.

FWIW, 2380MHz is a nice overclock. Chances are you would have needed 1.85V
for stability anyway. Try 183MHz with a 13x multiplier if you have PC3200
RAM, once your temperatures are under control; 67°C is a little too high,
even under load.
 
S.Heenan said:
Your CPU is indeed a 333FSB AthlonXP 3000+ Barton with 512KB L2 cache,
nominal 1.65V. Produced the 21st week of 2003. Stepping is AQUCA. I do not
know the meaning of "27493".

Examine the "bridges" on top of the CPU, with a magnifying glass. The L1 row
::::: will have burn marks where a laser cut the traces. This is what made
your CPU unlocked. Take note of any scratches or excess thermal compound.
Since you've removed the heatsink, you will need to clean the CPU and apply
fresh paste.

As Paul suggests, also examine the bottom of the CPU for signs of modding.
ie traces of conductive pen; thin stands of wire, etc. Do the same to the
white ZIF socket.

FWIW, 2380MHz is a nice overclock. Chances are you would have needed 1.85V
for stability anyway. Try 183MHz with a 13x multiplier if you have PC3200
RAM, once your temperatures are under control; 67°C is a little too high,
even under load.
Click to expand...
I've just upgraded the bios to the original asus 1006, with the same command
switches as before.
But still the Vcore remains at 1,85v So I dont think I ever can get this
fixed.
Everything is running fine for now, at 13x185MHz (2405MHz) but I only have
Samsung 2700 Ram, they run at 6:5.
The benchmarks are pretty cool at this point. Just now I'm running
3Dmark2001.
How high do you think I can go with the fsb?
And why do the xp3000 cpu's come in 2 different colours (brown & green)?


John
 
J.F.K said:
I've just upgraded the bios to the original asus 1006, with the same
command switches as before.
But still the Vcore remains at 1,85v So I dont think I ever can get
this fixed.
Everything is running fine for now, at 13x185MHz (2405MHz) but I only
have Samsung 2700 Ram, they run at 6:5.
The benchmarks are pretty cool at this point. Just now I'm running
3Dmark2001.
How high do you think I can go with the fsb?
And why do the xp3000 cpu's come in 2 different colours (brown &
green)?
Click to expand...


For best results, you want the FSB in sync with memory speed, 1:1. That
means using PC3200 or better.
At the current ratio of 6:5, I can not see you reaching 200MHz *13, unless
temperatures are kept lower.

The different colours are a result of the manufacturing process and
impurities added. Some will say colour is an indicator of how well a CPU
will overclock.
http://www.overclock.net/showthread.php?t=175
Refer to "Die Colour"

Personally, I doubt this wisdom. The stepping seems to be a better indicator
of overclocking potential.
 
By the way all of the xp-cpu's I've had were all som kind of brown
The different colours are a result of the manufacturing process and
impurities added. Some will say colour is an indicator of how well a CPU
will overclock.
http://www.overclock.net/showthread.php?t=175
Refer to "Die Colour"

Personally, I doubt this wisdom. The stepping seems to be a better indicator
of overclocking potential.
Click to expand...
I think you misunderstood me, I was not talking about the Die/Core, I was
talking about PCB or what it's called, the plate on whitch the die it self
is placed...
I'm sorry for my bad english :-(


John
 
J.F.K said:
I think you misunderstood me, I was not talking about the Die/Core, I
was talking about PCB or what it's called, the plate on whitch the
die it self is placed...
I'm sorry for my bad english :-(
Click to expand...



It is I who should apologize for my misunderstanding. There's nothing at all
wrong with your grasp of the English language.

Earlier in the thread I wrote:
"Examine the "bridges" on top of the CPU, with a magnifying glass. The L1
row will have burn marks where a laser cut the traces. This is what made
your CPU unlocked."

This is incorrect. I meant to say, Examine the "bridges" on top of the CPU,
with a magnifying glass. The L1 row will have burn marks where a laser cut
the bridges. This is a _locked_ processor. Not so good. If no burn marks
exist, you very likely have an _unlocked_ CPU, which is great.

The green vs. brown colour of the processor is said to indicate which
fabrication facility the processor was made. I've seen and used both. No
difference in overclocking ability from what I've seen. Since you've taken
your XP3000+ to 2405MHz, you have plenty to smile about.

If you're looking to push it a little further, buy some PC3200 or faster.
One 512MB module is fine, since using the dual channel configuration
provides minimal performance increases. Then run the FSB and RAM 1:1, in
sync.
 
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