Head cleaning solution.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike M
  • Start date Start date
M

Mike M

Does anyone know what this stuff is made of?

I'm trying to resurrect an Epson 860 for a friend and don't want to
waste money buying something that may be under the kitchen sink that
would do the same thing.
 
I can't tell you what "commercial" cleaning fluid is for Epson printers,
but I can tell you the solution I use and have recommended to literally
thousands of people who have successfully used it with all Epson OEM
inks, and most dye inks. And it literally does reside principally under
you kitchen sink.

Buy any brand of ammoniated window cleaner. In North America that means
either Windex original formula (not the new types or all surface types)
or any generic "blue transparent" version but makes sure it has ammonia
in it.

In the UK, you can buy Windolene which is transparent clear original
(with ammonia). If you cannot find ammoniated window cleaner, you may
also use household NON-SUDSY ammonia and mix it one part ammonia to 9
parts water.

Once you have either the window cleaner or the diluted household
ammonia, add about 8 parts of that liquid to 2 parts of isopropyl
rubbing alcohol, either 70 or 99%, but make sure it is transparent,
clear, isopropyl containing no additives such as skin conditioners or
lanolin or other oils, or oil of wintergreen, etc.

I have tested this mix on dye, ultrachrome and durabrite inks, both wet
and dry, and it successfully dissolves all of them. I doesn't appear to
harm the head.

Some inks, Lyson makes some, have the opposite pH of normal Epson OEM
inks and most others. If the printer is using Lyson inks, be careful,
as some my clot with the use of a high pH cleaner as the one mentioned.

If you would like a basic cleaning manual for Epson printers, email me
privately and I will supply you with a copy of my copyrighted manual
free of charge.

Art
 
Arthur Entlich wrote:
(snip)
Once you have either the window cleaner or the diluted household
ammonia, add about 8 parts of that liquid to 2 parts of isopropyl
rubbing alcohol, either 70 or 99%, but make sure it is transparent,
clear, isopropyl containing no additives such as skin conditioners or
lanolin or other oils, or oil of wintergreen, etc.
Click to expand...
(snip)

Ummm ... "rubbing alcohol" contains oil.
 
Michael said:
Arthur Entlich wrote:
(snip)
(snip)

Ummm ... "rubbing alcohol" contains oil.
Click to expand...
????
Green Cross Isopropyl Alcohol. Formulation - 40% Isopropyl Alcohol from
Manning Impex Ltd.
Hampshire UK.
Tony
--
Inkylink JetTec UK Quality - Wot others wanna-be
Epson C64/ C84 Lighfast pigmented inks. R200/300,
RX500 (all with 30% more free patent chip)
Canon BCI-3 i560 i750 BCI-6 i865 S-820 / S-900 series.
Specialist ink refill kits... http://www.inkylink.co.uk
 
Arthur Entlich wrote:
(snip)
(snip)

Ummm ... "rubbing alcohol" contains oil.
Click to expand...

That would be "rubbing alcohol compound" or liniment. There's also a
variant made with denatured grain alcohol.

isopropyl rubbing alcohol is usually isopropanol at 70% strength cut
with distilled water. At 99% strength it's about as pure as you can
get except for lab or industrial use.
 
You make a reasonable point. The manual goes into much more detail
about this, and I skipped some steps here (always dangerous).

What often is referred to as "rubbing alcohol" is simply pure isopropyl.
But you are correct some products labeled as rubbing alcohol can
contain lanolin or other oils or greases or even oil of wintergreen and
should not be used.

To be more accurate, people should use only pure isopropyl alcohol
(either 99% or 70% with only water added) to be sure there are no other
additives that may contaminate the cleaning fluid.

Art
 
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