GyroMouse Presenter power?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marten Kemp
  • Start date Start date
M

Marten Kemp

I acquired a GyroMouse Presenter cordless mouse
but not the external power supply. The battery
in the mouse is marked for 7.5VDC, so that's the
voltage I set on the 'select-a-voltage' power
supply that fit. The manufacturer's tech support
didn't know what the proper voltage is.

The mouse seems to be losing its charge quite
rapidly, even though I replaced the rechargable
battery. I have the suspicion that 7.5V isn't
sufficient for a full charge.

Can anybody tell me what the voltage should be?

--
-- Marten Kemp
(Fix name and ISP to reply)
-=-=-
.... Practice random acts of intelligence,
and senseless acts of self-control.
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Marten said:
I acquired a GyroMouse Presenter cordless mouse
but not the external power supply. The battery
in the mouse is marked for 7.5VDC, so that's the
voltage I set on the 'select-a-voltage' power
supply that fit. The manufacturer's tech support
didn't know what the proper voltage is.

The mouse seems to be losing its charge quite
rapidly, even though I replaced the rechargable
battery. I have the suspicion that 7.5V isn't
sufficient for a full charge.

Can anybody tell me what the voltage should be?

I see a manual here. There are the usual fuzzy pictures of the
component parts, and no rating is stated for the adapter. It is
funny that the manual mentions NiMH battery pack, and yet the
pictured battery pack has 3.6V 320maH printed on it. (3.6V sounds
like Nickel Cadmium.) The charging method is different for different
battery technology, so you have to use the right kind of battery pack
for the charger circuit provided. Perhaps mixing the wrong components
together might result in a partially charged battery - just a
guess.

http://www.ua.edu/academic/ois/crc/pdf/GyroMouse_Manual.pdf

Your best bet would be the contact info here:

http://www.gyration.com/en-US/Article.html?articleparcat=GyroMouse FAQ&articletype=faq

Q: Where can I get repair information for my GyroMouse or other legacy
products?
A: Contact Cummings and Associates at 858-503-1227 or rcumming3 aol com

Paul
 
Paul said:
I see a manual here. There are the usual fuzzy pictures of the
component parts, and no rating is stated for the adapter. It is
funny that the manual mentions NiMH battery pack, and yet the
pictured battery pack has 3.6V 320maH printed on it. (3.6V sounds
like Nickel Cadmium.) The charging method is different for different
battery technology, so you have to use the right kind of battery pack
for the charger circuit provided. Perhaps mixing the wrong components
together might result in a partially charged battery - just a
guess.

http://www.ua.edu/academic/ois/crc/pdf/GyroMouse_Manual.pdf

Your best bet would be the contact info here:

http://www.gyration.com/en-US/Article.html?articleparcat=GyroMouse FAQ&articletype=faq

Q: Where can I get repair information for my GyroMouse or other legacy
products?
A: Contact Cummings and Associates at 858-503-1227 or rcumming3 aol com

Thanks. The tech support person only had the fuzzy picture,
not any definitive answer. It originally had a NiCd battery,
which I've replaced.

I've e-mailed the address with this question, so we'll
see what they say.

--
-- Marten Kemp
(Fix name and ISP to reply)
-=-=-
.... Iron rusts from disuse, stagnant water loses its purity, and in cold
weather becomes frozen, even so does inaction sap the vigor of the
mind. --Leonardo Da Vinci, painter, engineer, musician, and scientist
(1452-1519)
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Rick Cumming graciously answered my e-mail.

The specs are:
INPUT: 120 Volts AC--60 Hz 23 w
OUTPUT: 6 v DC 650 mA

He added this caveat:
'The 6 volts is less important than the milliampage.
That's the most critical, and the one likely to harm
your mouse if not correct."

--
-- Marten Kemp
(Fix name and ISP to reply)
-=-=-
.... The disorder of the fridge is inevitable, and there's nothing you
can do about it, except clean it out before the stuff in the back
attains consciousness and unionizes the lunchmeats.
-- James Lileks
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Rick Cumming graciously answered my e-mail.

The specs are:
INPUT: 120 Volts AC--60 Hz 23 w
OUTPUT: 6 v DC 650 mA

He added this caveat:
'The 6 volts is less important than the milliampage.
That's the most critical, and the one likely to harm
your mouse if not correct."


Then his information is highly suspect because it is
necessarily the other way around, the voltage of the supply
must matter but there is no possible technical reason why a
supply regulated to provide 6V within reasonable tolerance,
could not be 600 Kiloamps, 1 A, 800 mA, etc. Even 650mA
sounds a bit high but if he gave that number then it is a
nice target to shoot for. Point being, no the voltage is
not less important on any and all devices.
 
kony said:
Then his information is highly suspect because it is
necessarily the other way around, the voltage of the supply
must matter but there is no possible technical reason why a
supply regulated to provide 6V within reasonable tolerance,
could not be 600 Kiloamps, 1 A, 800 mA, etc. Even 650mA
sounds a bit high but if he gave that number then it is a
nice target to shoot for. Point being, no the voltage is
not less important on any and all devices.

My select-a-voltage puts out 600mA. Do you think that's good
enough if I set the voltage to 6V?

--
-- Marten Kemp
(Fix name and ISP to reply)
-=-=-
.... Rope is recyclable. Think green when you execute.
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My select-a-voltage puts out 600mA. Do you think that's good
enough if I set the voltage to 6V?

It will "probably" work fine. I don't think the 50mA is
enough to make a difference although how well the
"select-a-voltage" (which is a variable I can't know) supply
regulates, and if it's accurately rated, will be more
important factors. If you have a multimeter you should be
able to measure the resultant voltage level easily enough.
 
Marten said:
My select-a-voltage puts out 600mA. Do you think that's good
enough if I set the voltage to 6V?

The battery pack pictured in the user manual is 3.6V at
320maH. The manual says the quick charge phase takes four
hours. That works out to about 80mA of current during
that phase. Allow a bit more current to do the job properly,
but I still think you aren't even close to overloading
your power supply's 600mA rating. Only some work with a
multimeter (measuring the current flowing from the supply),
will verify what is going on.

Depending on the age and condition of the Nicad battery
pack, it could be that one of the cells in the pack is
going bad. The bad cell would have a reduced ampere-hour
rating, and it runs flat before the others. That will
reduce your run time. While in theory, you could
try reconditioning the cells, you need access to the
battery terminals of the three cells, in order to
attempt something like that. The only other option,
would be finding a replacement battery pack, and even
if Mr. Cumming provided one, it is not likely to be
the exact same construction as the original that
shipped with the product. (The curse of Nicads...)

Paul
 
Paul said:
The battery pack pictured in the user manual is 3.6V at
320maH. The manual says the quick charge phase takes four
hours. That works out to about 80mA of current during
that phase. Allow a bit more current to do the job properly,
but I still think you aren't even close to overloading
your power supply's 600mA rating. Only some work with a
multimeter (measuring the current flowing from the supply),
will verify what is going on.

Depending on the age and condition of the Nicad battery
pack, it could be that one of the cells in the pack is
going bad. The bad cell would have a reduced ampere-hour
rating, and it runs flat before the others. That will
reduce your run time. While in theory, you could
try reconditioning the cells, you need access to the
battery terminals of the three cells, in order to
attempt something like that. The only other option,
would be finding a replacement battery pack, and even
if Mr. Cumming provided one, it is not likely to be
the exact same construction as the original that
shipped with the product. (The curse of Nicads...)

The battery pack is new, 3.6V at 320mAh.

Part of the problem is with my usage pattern, I think.
I've been making a conscious effort to put the mouse
in the cradle instead of leaving it on the mousepad
and it's been working well so far.

--
-- Marten Kemp
(Fix name and ISP to reply)
-=-=-
.... Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom.
It is the argument of tyrants; it is the creed of slaves.
-William Pitt, British prime-minister (1759-1806)
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I just got a used Gyration Ultra GT from ebay delivered today

The charger has a 9 VDC 200mA transformer but my battery i
proprietary GP4102 and may be different from yours

Can you tell me where you got the replacement battery for your mouse.
Mine is about gone (<10 min battery life)

Thank
 
gar0074 said:
I just got a used Gyration Ultra GT from ebay delivered today.

The charger has a 9 VDC 200mA transformer but my battery is
proprietary GP4102 and may be different from yours.

Can you tell me where you got the replacement battery for your mouse.
Mine is about gone (<10 min battery life).

Thanks

I took the old one to Staples and matched the IDs
("801"). Maybe I'm lucky but mine seemed to be a
standard type, with several available on the racks.

The other side has a Batteries Plus label with most
of the specification worn off. About the only thing
I can read is "#58".

Does your battery say what the voltage and mAh
rating is? I'd suggest going to
http://www.batteriesplus.com/ and contacting
one of their stores.

--
-- Marten Kemp
(Fix name and ISP to reply)
-=-=-
.... For folks who think with their brains rather than the other extreme of
their alimentary canal, it's the facts and the logic that matter, not
the location of the person putting them forward.
-- Fred J. McCall on alt.books.tom-clancy
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