First time power supply replacement

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chrisfc

Hi.
First time I've had to replace a power supply, anyone help?

Following troubleshooting sites I've identified that the PSU is
definitely faulty - the motherboard connector has zero power although
the others are showing the correct 12V / 5V depending on which wires I
test. I therefore need to replace it.

Having taken the PSU out, I've compared it to one from another old PC i
have. The size is different, and it's got a connector the other hasn't
(a cubic type of connector with two black and two yellow wires leading
in). I therefore couldn't simply swap them.

The PC is a Packard Bell iPower 1475. Do I need to order a specific
power supply for this computer, and if not, how do I find out which one
I need?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Regards,
Chris.
 
Hi.
First time I've had to replace a power supply, anyone help?

Following troubleshooting sites I've identified that the PSU is
definitely faulty - the motherboard connector has zero power although
the others are showing the correct 12V / 5V depending on which wires I
test. I therefore need to replace it.

Having taken the PSU out, I've compared it to one from another old PC i
have. The size is different, and it's got a connector the other hasn't
(a cubic type of connector with two black and two yellow wires leading
in). I therefore couldn't simply swap them.

The PC is a Packard Bell iPower 1475. Do I need to order a specific
power supply for this computer, and if not, how do I find out which one
I need?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Regards,
Chris.
Click to expand...


Identify whether it is standard (PS/2 sized) ATX, or mATX,
and if mATX, if it is mATX-L, or mATX-S (L or S are whether
the long or short side mounts to the case wall).

Google Images can find pictoral examples and dimensions for
each type.
 
thanks for the reply...
had a look at images, although really hard to tell - found a website
with PS2, ATX and maTX all the same size.

The model is a DPS 180KB-1-B, found a guy who had sold one on ebay who
stated it was an ATX.

Do i simply need to get the same one, or would another suffice?
thanks
chris.
 
chrisfc said:
First time I've had to replace a power supply, anyone help?
Click to expand...
Following troubleshooting sites I've identified that the PSU is
definitely faulty - the motherboard connector has zero power although the others are showing the
correct 12V / 5V depending on which wires I test. I therefore need to replace it.
Click to expand...

You sure you arent getting confused ? All the red, black and
yellow leads are normally soldered together inside the power
supply, so it isnt normally possible to not have power on the
motherboard connectors but have power on the drive connectors etc.
 
chrisfc said:
Hi.
First time I've had to replace a power supply, anyone help?

Following troubleshooting sites I've identified that the PSU is
definitely faulty - the motherboard connector has zero power although
the others are showing the correct 12V / 5V depending on which wires I
test. I therefore need to replace it.

Having taken the PSU out, I've compared it to one from another old PC i
have. The size is different, and it's got a connector the other hasn't
(a cubic type of connector with two black and two yellow wires leading
in). I therefore couldn't simply swap them.
Click to expand...

That is seen in newer power standard power supplies. (p4 class) it's a
good sign. But it doesn't prove that the psu is a standard atx.



The PC is a Packard Bell iPower 1475. Do I need to order a specific
power supply for this computer, and if not, how do I find out which one
I need?
Click to expand...

The easiest way is often to take the PSU to your local computer repair
shop, and say i need one of THESE.
 
thanks for the reply...
had a look at images, although really hard to tell - found a website
with PS2, ATX and maTX all the same size.

The model is a DPS 180KB-1-B, found a guy who had sold one on ebay who
stated it was an ATX.

Do i simply need to get the same one, or would another suffice?
thanks
chris.
Click to expand...

Does it look like this;
http://www.delta.com.tw/product/ps/sps/desktop/download/pdf/DPS180KB-4.pdf#search="DPS 180KB"

If not, measure yours, length/width/height, and make mention
of which dimensions are those of the side that screws to the
rear of the case.

Also, does it use a 20 pin ( 2 x 10 arrangement) connector
configured like this: ?

http://69.36.189.159/usr_1034/atx_on.gif
 
chrisfc said:
Hi. First time I've had to replace a power supply, anyone help?

Following troubleshooting sites I've identified that the PSU is
definitely faulty - the motherboard connector has zero power although
the others are showing the correct 12V / 5V depending on which wires
I test. I therefore need to replace it.
Click to expand...

You know, don't you, that the +5v and +12v wires in the motherboard
connector go to the same place in the power supply as do the +5v
and +12v connectors that go elsewhere?

Methinks you have other problems.
 
9cm/3.5" tall by 15cm/6" wide by 10cm/4" deep (approx). The measurements
here are the back of the supply, where the AC cable plugs in.

the diagram you linked to was spot on, except instead of a white cable
there was no cable...

thanks again,
chris.
 
chrisfc said:
Following troubleshooting sites I've identified that the PSU is
definitely faulty - the motherboard connector has zero power although
the others are showing the correct 12V / 5V depending on which wires I
test. I therefore need to replace it.
Click to expand...

Something is very odd since all the +5V and +12V wires should read
almost exactly the same, and the only likely cause for any differences
is poor contact between the connector pins and the meter leads. In
other words, press the leads harder or connect to them through a bent
paperclip. Assuming the +5V and +12V are good, your problem could be
with the +3.3V (orange wires) or the motherboard, and the easiest way
to tell is by substituting another power supply. Contrary to your
assumption, you actually can use a supply that has the cubic connector
because its 4 wires can be left unconnected. On the other hand if a
motherboard has a matching 4-pin connector, it's highly unlikely a
supply which lacks this connector can be used since the motherboard
needs it for CPU voltage.

Delta supplies are very good and should be fairly resistant to damage
caused by overloads or aging caused by low quality capacitors.
 
9cm/3.5" tall by 15cm/6" wide by 10cm/4" deep (approx). The measurements
here are the back of the supply, where the AC cable plugs in.

the diagram you linked to was spot on, except instead of a white cable
there was no cable...

thanks again,
chris.
Click to expand...

I think I may even have one of those Deltas here in a pile
somewhere that came out of an HP system, or maybe the near
equivalent but one generation earlier, ATX1.2 version which
lacks the 12V 4 pin connector and optimization for more 12V
current.

What you have is a PS3 unit, essentially a short form factor
version of a regular ATX PSU. IOW, the difference is that
it is 1.5" shorter, does not extend towards the front of the
case as far. Here are a couple of examples, note that the
first one is the size as you reported, while the second
looks similar in pictures but will not work (is not the
right size, would not mount to your case properly unless the
case had a rare universal mounting plate).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104903

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817104021

Similarly, most PSU with the fan on the bottom are not
compatible. Some places selling what you need "Might" call
it a mATX, BUT most PSU called mATX are not compatible.
Essentially, most places dont know to call it PS3 and
wouldn't know what you meant if you asked for one, but you
might try asking anyway, telling them it's same as a
standard PSU but 1.5" shorter.

Avoid generic brands if possible, some of these reduced form
factor generics are really poor quality (not that some
larger generics are much better, but the smaller the unit
the higher the power density and the more the quality, not
necessarily wattage rating (since generics may use an overly
optimistic rating system non-correlating to that of major
brands) will matter. The Sparkle I linked above might be a
reasonable choice, or other popular brands are Antec, or
actually the Deltas were reasonably good too, I'd call your
failure a fluke unless the system were just designed with
insufficient airflow and relied on the PSU to move all the
air- so it ran too hot as a result. If this is the case,
you might try to find ways to open up the front bezel more
to reduce front air intake impedance, ultimately increasing
exhaust rate a little.


When possible, I try to replace these with a full sized ATX,
but often it is not possible because there's not enough
space between the PSU and the drive cage or a drive... and
on optical drives, they are not all the same length so if it
fits really close to a short optical, that could be a
problem if the owner decides or needs replace the drive
someday.

I don't know what is available in the UK.
 
sure, but checked out this site
http://channels.lockergnome.com/it/...n_how_to_diagnose_power_supply_problems.phtml
ran through the tests and it failed while testing the motherboard
connector...

fans run fine, but no activity on HDD, cd's wont eject etc.
Click to expand...


Instead of reading that whole page, I will just outline the
basic test for turn-on.

Take the linked picture of the connector in my other post.
See on it pin #14, green wire, PS-On pin. Use a paperclip
or similar to short that to a black ground wire while the
PSU is plugged into only a hard drive (preferribly an old
worthless one).

If it turns on, drive and PSU fan spinning, proceeed to plug
back into motherboard and other parts (everything else
should have been disconnected during the test) and retry it.
Leave it unplugged from AC for at least a few minutes if you
had never done this yet- it will reset some PSU after a
prior fault.

If by shorting PS-On connector to ground, fan or drive won't
spin, make sure the drive works or use another drive. If no
drive will spin, the PSU is faulty and this can be confirmed
by taking a multimeter and measuring the 3.3V, 5V, 12V, 5VSB
and PS-ON pin voltage.
 
The plot thickens.
Tried your paperclip test -
Results:
the drive kicked into action.

When plugged in as normal -
All drives (CDRW/ DVDRom/ Hard disk/ Floppy) are all lifeless
Motherboard fan whirring away

Does this mean i'm now looking at a motherboard, not a PSU issue???
 
further to that, final test guys.
placed the PSU in a PC with a known good motherboard - CD rom, hard
drive and everything else kicked into action. I take it this is a
conclusive motherboard issue?
 
The plot thickens.
Tried your paperclip test -
Results:
the drive kicked into action.

When plugged in as normal -
All drives (CDRW/ DVDRom/ Hard disk/ Floppy) are all lifeless
Motherboard fan whirring away

Does this mean i'm now looking at a motherboard, not a PSU issue???
Click to expand...


It means you need to disconnect everything again and add
items back one-at-a-time. First add the known good drive,
then each addtional drive till all are connected.

Next add motherboard but with no cards in it. Add CPU &
heatsink/fan, memory, always trying it... then finally add
the rest of the parts.
 
further to that, final test guys.
placed the PSU in a PC with a known good motherboard - CD rom, hard
drive and everything else kicked into action. I take it this is a
conclusive motherboard issue?
Click to expand...


Not conclusive. Any of the parts in the other system could
be a problem, do as suggested in my last post and start out
with nothing, adding back parts one at a time starting with
only drives, using the paperclip between PS-ON and Gnd to
turn it on.
 
you were right.
Powered on everthing in turn as suggested.
All drives, fans, cards, memory worked fine.
As soon as the IDE cable is connected to any drive - cd, cdrw, hard disk
the drive no longer responds
- CD drives don't eject
- Hard disk doesn't spin up..

busy looking online now for solutions, any ideas??
this process is more complex than i imagined...
 
you were right.
Powered on everthing in turn as suggested.
All drives, fans, cards, memory worked fine.
As soon as the IDE cable is connected to any drive - cd, cdrw, hard disk
the drive no longer responds
- CD drives don't eject
- Hard disk doesn't spin up..

busy looking online now for solutions, any ideas??
this process is more complex than i imagined...
Click to expand...


I meant to connect ONE drive to power, then try it, then add
that drive's cable. Get each individual part connected
completely before even connecting power to the next one.

If it seems the cables are a problem you might also try a
different cable. If nothing else helps, try connecting the
parts one-at-a-time outside of the case.
 
dodgy cable. wouldn't have thought to start there...!
the IDE1 cable has a nick in it. as soon as it connects, the problem
arises - new cable soon but hopefully this is it solved.

many thanks for your help kony, learned a lot.
chris.
 
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