figuring out power cords

  • Thread starter Thread starter borepstein
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borepstein

Hello everybody,

I got a couple of HP Proliant servers which shipped with a wrong type
of power cord (EIC-to-EIC) instead of regular wall-plug-to-EIC cords.
Now, these servers are pretty powerful - they've got two power
supplies rated at 480 W each. The cords they were shipped with are
rated at 250V x 10A. Clearly, to be safe I would like to get similar-
rated cords to use with them. Now, I found one that was rated the same
but I also have a whole bunch of them that are not rated at all - at
least not explicitly. They have some coded markings on them, though.

Does anybody know how to interpret such markings? I mean, I don't mind
going to a store and just buying a couple of power cords - I just
don't want to do that if I've got them already.

Thanks.

Boris.
 
I got a couple of HP Proliant servers which shipped with a wrong type
of power cord (EIC-to-EIC) instead of regular wall-plug-to-EIC cords.
Now, these servers are pretty powerful
Click to expand...

Hi there

Every ProLiant I've ever bought has come with those plugs - they intend
you to connect them to a UPS or to a PDU bar - not straight in to the mains.

You don't say which country you're in, but in the UK, all 13A mains ->
IEC connectors wiring has to be able to cope with 13A draw, the fuse is
the limiting factor. So all you'd need is to ensure the plug has a fuse
rated at 10A.

FYI the ProLiant will split the draw across the two PSUs and actually
uses alot less than the 480W stated alot of the time..

Cheers

Alex
 
Hello everybody,

I got a couple of HP Proliant servers which shipped with a wrong type
of power cord (EIC-to-EIC) instead of regular wall-plug-to-EIC cords.
Now, these servers are pretty powerful - they've got two power
supplies rated at 480 W each. The cords they were shipped with are
rated at 250V x 10A. Clearly, to be safe I would like to get similar-
rated cords to use with them. Now, I found one that was rated the same
but I also have a whole bunch of them that are not rated at all - at
least not explicitly. They have some coded markings on them, though.
Click to expand...

A power cord rating generally depends on the gauge of wire
used, the type of connector, and if there is any inline
protection *circuit* (such as a fuse), what it is rated for.
We can probably ignore length assuming it is only a few feet
(perhaps 2-3 meters?) long.

Comparing two seemingly same diameter cords, they are
probably either the same gauge or not more than one, maybe
two gauges apart unless one is unusual in having very thick
or thin insulation. Is there a wire gauge marked on it?

Presuming this is a redundant power supply setup, it is
designed to use less than 480W peak running from one supply
should the other one fail, and probably much less. Even if
it had a fairly low efficiency of 70%, that still puts total
power draw at about 685W (again typically much less).

Does anybody know how to interpret such markings? I mean, I don't mind
going to a store and just buying a couple of power cords - I just
don't want to do that if I've got them already.
Click to expand...

It might help if you told us what these markings are
exactly.
 
Use the cords you've got. After an hour feel the plug, socket, and wire.
Only if they are warm should you start worrying about it.
 
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