Epson R1800 tips anyone?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Paul Furman
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Paul Furman

I just got this 13-inch wide printer for photo work (and some
architectural oversize work). Lots to learn. For example I had a tough
time printing half letter size tests: they came out rotated incorrectly,
the borderless feature didn't work, that odd paper size only showed in
the list under certain mysterious circumstances and there didn't seem to
be any option for creating custom paper sizes in the manual.

My monitor is profiled with Photoshop, images are AdobeRGB, I'll need to
study some how to activate ICM, load paper profiles & turn off the
redundant automatic corrections but if anyone has tips, I'm all ears.

Where to find 13" roll paper, etc. Any advice for operating this beast
is welcome.
 
Paul said:
I just got this 13-inch wide printer for photo work ...
<snip>
Where to find 13" roll paper, etc. Any advice for operating this beast
is welcome.
Click to expand...

Here's a link for paper & cartridges I found which looks good:
http://www.atlex.com/
(answering myself from past posts here)
 
As I have also bought hardware that outclassed my understanding of why or
how to use it I hope that you really plan to learn the nuts and bolts of
color management before you feel you have wasted your investment. It is
worth the effort.
First see if Epson is still offering its Print Academy on its website or an
equivalent. It will walk you through the mechanics of color management,
monitor calibration and printer driver settings using Photoshop.
If that is not available spend the money to buy a good video based tutorial
as these are generally easier to follow than reading it from a book.
Then get a few good reference books and use them as needed.
You also need to learn to optimize your images in Photoshop before printing
them. Have an idea of what you want in the final print and learn how to
approach that in PS. Layers, layers, layers.
Monitor and printer calibration methods differ between device manufacturers.
First learn how to do color managed printing using just monitor calibration.
Actually for most uses monitor calibration is enough.
Epson provides reasonably good canned profiles for its paper surfaces and I
would learn how to use these before trying to create your own printer/paper
profiles.
 
Thanks guys, yes I got into the profiling stuff before with a cheaper
printer & gave up but I have some idea how complex it is.

Anyone else have this model and general advice for things like:

-should I get roll paper? Sounds wise but how does it cut the paper,
will it be more hassle than it's worth?

-how to make custom paper sizes, it doesn't seem possible, that couldn't
be correct!

-anything you learned like I know from my previous Epson, you can't let
it sit for weeks without use or the heads will clog (I plan to at least
run a test pattern once a week to give all the heads exercise) & don't
pull the ink cartridges out & put them back in or it resets them as full
& if it runs on an empty cartridge, that can damage the heads. Kodak
premium picture paper is apparently incompatible, etc.

-can I run card stock through it? My old printer had a lever for that
and envelopes.
 
Paul said:
Thanks guys, yes I got into the profiling stuff before with a cheaper
printer & gave up but I have some idea how complex it is.

Anyone else have this model and general advice for things like:

-should I get roll paper? Sounds wise but how does it cut the paper,
will it be more hassle than it's worth?
Click to expand...
Probably not worth it unless you want to do panoramas. Cost is higher
by area wher I am for roll papers. You would ideally need an A3 rotary
paper cutter.
-how to make custom paper sizes, it doesn't seem possible, that couldn't
be correct!
Click to expand...
Go in to printer settings. Scroll down the "size" combo box until you
get to "User Defined". Select that, and a dialog box appears that allows
you to enter a custom size, which will be saved and available from that
list in future.
But note that these custom sizes don't appear in the limited range of
presets with Epson "Easy Photo Print" software etc.

One of your other problems about incorrect paper orientation can be
solved by always feeding the paper in "portrait" mode. Enable "print
preview" in the printer driver. Then if you make such an error (yes- I
have too) then at least you get the chance to hit the cancel button and
start again without wasting paper.
-anything you learned like I know from my previous Epson, you can't let
it sit for weeks without use or the heads will clog (I plan to at least
run a test pattern once a week to give all the heads exercise) & don't
pull the ink cartridges out & put them back in or it resets them as full
& if it runs on an empty cartridge, that can damage the heads. Kodak
premium picture paper is apparently incompatible, etc.
Click to expand...
So far, I haven't had to run a cleaning cycle after 3 months - including
several periods of a couple of weeks with the printer off. I suspect
that the newer epson pigment printers may be a vast improvement on the
way things were in the past. Time will tell...
-can I run card stock through it? My old printer had a lever for that
and envelopes.
Click to expand...

Be careful. It appears that you can run heavier media through than
Epson claim/recommend, but there is always the possibility of damaging
the print head. Note that the recommended maximum is based on grams/sq
metre. Densities vary - so the recommended max gsm is *probably* based
on light density paper. There are some user forums at photo-i.co.uk,
where various papers are discussed - amd may be worthwhile browsing for
you for all sorts of things related to the R1800.

A few tips:
When it come to changing ink cartridges, don't hold down the "ink"
button on the printer. Press it only briefly to get the head into
position. Pressing it for more than a couple of seconds initiates a
full head cleaning cycle - a glorious waste of ink.
The initial set of inks don't appear to last very long. The second set
last much longer. It appears that a reasonable amount of the first set
gets used in priming the system.
Avoid any "swellable polymer" papers. Despite Kodak claiming that some
of their papers are suitable for "all" inkjet printers, it certainly
isn't suitable for pigment printers.
Avoid Epson Matte Heavyweight paper with this printer. (Use Archival
Matte). Not sure if it is a driver issue, but Matte Heavyweight causes
streaky colour transition between high saturation red through browns to
green.
If you print gloss/satin - and want a border with gloss optimiser on it,
then put a white border around the image in PS before printing.
Sometimes you can see the different gloss level between a border and the
printed area, and this eliminates it.

Hope you enjoy your printer. I am extremely happy with the output from
mine.
 
Thanks!
Probably not worth it unless you want to do panoramas. Cost is higher
by area wher I am for roll papers. You would ideally need an A3 rotary
paper cutter.
Click to expand...


So, does it poke the paper out for you to cut manually, then pull it
back in? There is no built in paper cutter? I probably will at least try
this for architectural prints at 13" wide plain paper line drawings.
Sounds like it may be easier to buy roll paper, pre-cut it myself &
define custom paper sizes.

My 6MP DSLR photos are 3008x2000 pixels, at 150dpi that's 13x20" so the
13x19 cut sheets are not really appropriate. I know 150dpi is coarse but
it's impressive at a large size and you tend not to look so close. I've
tiled letter size prints to 30x40 & it's sometimes worth doing.

If I had 13" roll stock, I could do 8-1/2x13 prints from the DSLR
without cropping.

Go in to printer settings. Scroll down the "size" combo box until you
get to "User Defined".
Click to expand...


Argh, I just missed that somehow.
One of your other problems about incorrect paper orientation can be
solved by always feeding the paper in "portrait" mode. Enable "print
preview" in the printer driver.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I found the good old preview option with 'Advanced' clicked.
So far, I haven't had to run a cleaning cycle after 3 months - including
several periods of a couple of weeks with the printer off. I suspect
that the newer epson pigment printers may be a vast improvement on the
way things were in the past. Time will tell...
Click to expand...

Ah, so it is a new 'pigment' technology, my old C80 was a different ink.

I was suggesting just the test pattern to use a small amount of ink on
every single color but it'll be hard for me to remember to do this
regularly, I sure hope clogging is less of a problem, my C80 had banding
problems from day 1, I even got them to replace the first one, with this
one, I did have to run the cleaning cycle once to get the first print to
come out clear.

Be careful. It appears that you can run heavier media through than
Epson claim/recommend, but there is always the possibility of damaging
the print head.
Click to expand...


I have printed my own business cards & folded brochures in the past,
that card stock is not much heavier than heavy duty gloss photo paper.
I'll be killing myself if I damage the heads though!

Note that the recommended maximum is based on grams/sq
metre. Densities vary - so the recommended max gsm is *probably* based
on light density paper. There are some user forums at photo-i.co.uk,
where various papers are discussed - amd may be worthwhile browsing for
you for all sorts of things related to the R1800.
Click to expand...

Thanks, great resource, here's there R1800 forum:
<http://www.photo-i.co.uk/BB/viewforum.php?f=8&sid=947f76dcf291aff067c91c6f03a34bc9>

I see one discussion of paper thickness in mils, people used up to 27
mil I'm not sure what business card stock is, I see also that they used
the 'straight thru feeder' on the back which to my eyes is not straight
thru, it still comes from above and needs to bend. The printer is
capable of printing on CD's so should be able to handle very thick
materials but it looks like the CD tray goes in the front. Anyways
here's that discussion about paper thickness:
http://www.photo-i.co.uk/BB/viewtopic.php?t=417
A few tips:
When it come to changing ink cartridges, don't hold down the "ink"
button on the printer. Press it only briefly to get the head into
position. Pressing it for more than a couple of seconds initiates a
full head cleaning cycle - a glorious waste of ink.
The initial set of inks don't appear to last very long. The second set
last much longer. It appears that a reasonable amount of the first set
gets used in priming the system.
Click to expand...

Great stuff!
Avoid any "swellable polymer" papers. Despite Kodak claiming that some
of their papers are suitable for "all" inkjet printers, it certainly
isn't suitable for pigment printers.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I learned this the hard way.

Avoid Epson Matte Heavyweight paper with this printer. (Use Archival
Matte). Not sure if it is a driver issue, but Matte Heavyweight causes
streaky colour transition between high saturation red through browns to
green.
Click to expand...

I've been happy with premium gloss papers in the past, heavy enough to
look like 'real' photo paper. Frankly when printing 6MP pics at a large
size, the resolution is so poor that any old absorbant plain paper seems
adequate, it's just as well if it bleeds & blurs the pixelization a bit.
I tried some really cheap 'contruction paper' & it looked good. I'd have
to do a stitched panorama to get enough pixels to do serious photo
prints at 13x20. I wonder about an acid free water color paper that
would give this bleeded softening effect for large 6MP prints.
 
Paul said:
Thanks!




So, does it poke the paper out for you to cut manually, then pull it
back in? There is no built in paper cutter? I probably will at least try
this for architectural prints at 13" wide plain paper line drawings.
Sounds like it may be easier to buy roll paper, pre-cut it myself &
define custom paper sizes.

My 6MP DSLR photos are 3008x2000 pixels, at 150dpi that's 13x20" so the
13x19 cut sheets are not really appropriate. I know 150dpi is coarse but
it's impressive at a large size and you tend not to look so close. I've
tiled letter size prints to 30x40 & it's sometimes worth doing.

If I had 13" roll stock, I could do 8-1/2x13 prints from the DSLR
without cropping.
Click to expand...
I have never used the roll feeder - so don't know what you have to do to
get the paper "poked out" to cut it. I'm sure the instructions are in
the manual. The roll-feed button on the front of the printer seems a
likely candidate to have something to do with it.
Argh, I just missed that somehow.



Thanks, I found the good old preview option with 'Advanced' clicked.



Ah, so it is a new 'pigment' technology, my old C80 was a different ink.

I was suggesting just the test pattern to use a small amount of ink on
every single color but it'll be hard for me to remember to do this
regularly, I sure hope clogging is less of a problem, my C80 had banding
problems from day 1, I even got them to replace the first one, with this
one, I did have to run the cleaning cycle once to get the first print to
come out clear.
Click to expand...
I have never had a need. A couple of weeks with no printing hasn't
cause me a problem - but it's winter here now.
I don't know if the apparent improvement is my luck, the ink, newer
print head design, or a combination of the above.
I have printed my own business cards & folded brochures in the past,
that card stock is not much heavier than heavy duty gloss photo paper.
I'll be killing myself if I damage the heads though!




Thanks, great resource, here's there R1800 forum:
<http://www.photo-i.co.uk/BB/viewforum.php?f=8&sid=947f76dcf291aff067c91c6f03a34bc9>


I see one discussion of paper thickness in mils, people used up to 27
mil I'm not sure what business card stock is, I see also that they used
the 'straight thru feeder' on the back which to my eyes is not straight
thru, it still comes from above and needs to bend. The printer is
capable of printing on CD's so should be able to handle very thick
materials but it looks like the CD tray goes in the front. Anyways
here's that discussion about paper thickness:
http://www.photo-i.co.uk/BB/viewtopic.php?t=417
Click to expand...
27 mil = 685 microns approx = 0.685 mm. I have some fine art paper here
that is 310 gsm, plenty heavy enough for business cards and feeds
through the printer with no problems. It appears to be about 20 mil /
0.5mm.
Great stuff!



Yeah, I learned this the hard way.




I've been happy with premium gloss papers in the past, heavy enough to
look like 'real' photo paper.
Click to expand...

Using Epson Premium Gloss / Semi Gloss Photo paper, or Ilford Smooth
Gloss/Pearl, my prints look better than any lab prints I've ever had
done. After the prints have dried, you can wipe them with a cloth to
remove finger prints (or worse). It is better than so-called "real"
photo paper in every way, and much cheaper than lab prints once you get
over about 7x5 inch size.

Frankly when printing 6MP pics at a large
size, the resolution is so poor that any old absorbant plain paper seems
adequate, it's just as well if it bleeds & blurs the pixelization a bit.
I tried some really cheap 'contruction paper' & it looked good. I'd have
to do a stitched panorama to get enough pixels to do serious photo
prints at 13x20. I wonder about an acid free water color paper that
would give this bleeded softening effect for large 6MP prints.
Click to expand...
"Sampler Packs" are handy. Unfortunately not easily available for all
paper ranges.
A 12mp plus dslr would be nice - but not at current prices. Not even a
Canon 5d at US$3200 is of interest to me because of the price. The best
news I've seen recently is the Sony DSC-R1. If Sony can churn out such
cameras of 10+ MP with good quality optics and a decent sized sensor
for less than US$1,000, then there is hope for an affordable high MP
dslr in the not too distant future.
 
Paul said:
Thanks!




So, does it poke the paper out for you to cut manually, then pull it
back in? There is no built in paper cutter? I probably will at least try
this for architectural prints at 13" wide plain paper line drawings.
Sounds like it may be easier to buy roll paper, pre-cut it myself &
define custom paper sizes.

My 6MP DSLR photos are 3008x2000 pixels, at 150dpi that's 13x20" so the
13x19 cut sheets are not really appropriate. I know 150dpi is coarse but
it's impressive at a large size and you tend not to look so close. I've
tiled letter size prints to 30x40 & it's sometimes worth doing.
Click to expand...

It doesn't work out like that with digital camera acquired images.
Obviously you haven't printed off any yet. I regularly print A3+
prints and the largest that has come off my digital camera 6MP is 40x60
inches with out problems.
 
My 6MP DSLR photos are 3008x2000 pixels, at 150dpi that's 13x20" so the
13x19 cut sheets are not really appropriate. I know 150dpi is coarse
but it's impressive at a large size and you tend not to look so close.
I've tiled letter size prints to 30x40 & it's sometimes worth doing.
Click to expand...

Using QImage (http://www.ddisoftware.com) you could print them to the same
size but they would be less pixelated and could be viewed from shorter
range.

Jon.
 
Jon said:
Using QImage (http://www.ddisoftware.com) you could print them to the same
size but they would be less pixelated and could be viewed from shorter
range.
Click to expand...


Thanks, I've heard nothing but good stuff about QImage. Ha ha, does that
mean I don't need to study about ICC as much? I see they have a 30 day
trial, $50 to purchase.
 
On Thu, 15 Sep 2005 03:37 +0100 (BST), in comp.periphs.printers
Apart from learning how to apply profiles, you really don't need to know
that much about them. Applying profiles in QI is very easy.


There's a 'Lite' version, that will probably do everything you need, for
$35. See: http://www.ddisoftware.com/q-v-lite/ for the differences.
Click to expand...

Just be aware the lite version doesn't do soft proofing.
 
If you wish to make or alter profiles have a look at Eddie Matejowsky's
site, sorry I no longer have an address but his Labwarp is a good start.
 
Jon O'Brien wrote:

...does that mean I don't need to study about ICC as much?
Click to expand...

Apart from learning how to apply profiles, you really don't need to know
that much about them. Applying profiles in QI is very easy.
I see they have a 30 day trial, $50 to purchase.
Click to expand...

There's a 'Lite' version, that will probably do everything you need,
or >$35. See: http://www.ddisoftware.com/q-v-lite/ for the differences.

Jon.

You can comment as much you like to my messages but don't change what I
said without noting that they're your edits.
 
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