DVD burner not recognized by computer

  • Thread starter Thread starter iggystooge
  • Start date Start date
I

iggystooge

Hi,

I switched my DVD writer, a Toshiba SD-R5112, from one computer to
another. The burner worked fine with my last computer, which was less
powerful than the new one (it runs XP, with Pentium 4, 1.5 Ghz, and 256
RAM). It works fine to watch DVD's and listen to and burn CD's, but I
can't get software to recognize it as a burning device. I

The BIOS reads something as the primary master with text saying
ST340816A-(PM). Their is no slave. The secondary master is Toshiba
DVD-ROM SD-R5. I assume that the primary is my CD-ROM, although I don't
know, but the secondary is definitely the DVD burner. However, when I
check in "My Computer", it only shows one removable storage drive
(besides the floppy), which is drive D:. Normally I have drive D:
(CD-ROM) and drive E: (DVD burner). But drive D: references the DVD
burner instead of the CD-ROM. I checked the Toshiba site, and it says
that I don't need a particular kind of driver. Is this something to do
with the master/slave, of DMA? I have tried both Nero 6 and 1Click,
which worked fine in the past, but won't recognize the new DVD burner
now. Anyone out there know what I missed? Thanks!

Iggy
 
I hope your primary master is your hard drive!!!

Check the jumpers again at the rear of the drive..... on BOTH optical
devices. If one is set as CS (Cable Select) that would throw out the
setting of either Master or Slave on the other one......
 
In iggystooge <[email protected]> had this to say:

My reply is at the bottom of your sent message:
Hi,

I switched my DVD writer, a Toshiba SD-R5112, from one computer to
another. The burner worked fine with my last computer, which was less
powerful than the new one (it runs XP, with Pentium 4, 1.5 Ghz, and
256 RAM). It works fine to watch DVD's and listen to and burn CD's,
but I can't get software to recognize it as a burning device. I

The BIOS reads something as the primary master with text saying
ST340816A-(PM). Their is no slave. The secondary master is Toshiba
DVD-ROM SD-R5. I assume that the primary is my CD-ROM, although I
don't know, but the secondary is definitely the DVD burner. However,
when I check in "My Computer", it only shows one removable storage
drive (besides the floppy), which is drive D:. Normally I have drive
D: (CD-ROM) and drive E: (DVD burner). But drive D: references the DVD
burner instead of the CD-ROM. I checked the Toshiba site, and it says
that I don't need a particular kind of driver. Is this something to do
with the master/slave, of DMA? I have tried both Nero 6 and 1Click,
which worked fine in the past, but won't recognize the new DVD burner
now. Anyone out there know what I missed? Thanks!

Iggy
Click to expand...

The one plugged into the furthest most plug should be set (idealy) to Master
and the other should be set to Slave. Not cable select or anything like
that. I suspect that the DVD burner was/is still set to Master. In the back
(look for SL) of the drive change the jumpers (the little plastic piece that
pops off and on) onto the two pins below the "SL" or follow the diagram
that's printed on it.

--
Galen - MS MVP - Windows (Shell/User & IE)
http://dts-l.org/

"My life is spent in one long effort to escape from the commonplaces of
existence." - Sherlock Holmes
 
Galen said:
The one plugged into the furthest most plug should be set (idealy) to
Master and the other should be set to Slave. Not cable select or anything
like that.
Click to expand...

Why, I must ask.

For the past 15, or so years (since DOS 6) I have been connecting a master
drive to the second connector and a slave drive to the end connector - if my
physical case layout warrants such.

I have "never" experienced a problem by to doing so, that I can recall.

Is there something that I am missing? (-:
 
Richard said:
Why, I must ask.

For the past 15, or so years (since DOS 6) I have been connecting a
master drive to the second connector and a slave drive to the end
connector - if my physical case layout warrants such.

I have "never" experienced a problem by to doing so, that I can
recall.
Is there something that I am missing? (-:
Click to expand...

I often do the same thing for the simple reason that most cables fit that
way without twisting them. It's almost like the makers of IDE cables looked
at a typical arrangement inside a typical case and said "let's make it
really hard to hook this up right".

Kerry
 
The ATA specification is the reason. Normal reason for specifying that
configuration, is to reduce electrical noise. The fact that one can get
away with it or doesn't notice any difference only means that the
conditions weren't bad enough to be noticeable without a meter.
 
In Richard Urban <[email protected]> had this to say:

My reply is at the bottom of your sent message:
Why, I must ask.

For the past 15, or so years (since DOS 6) I have been connecting a
master drive to the second connector and a slave drive to the end
connector - if my physical case layout warrants such.

I have "never" experienced a problem by to doing so, that I can
recall.
Is there something that I am missing? (-:
Click to expand...

Nah, just hasn't had any real impact for you yet and probably won't. I am
pretty sure that my methods come from very old lessons for certification and
probably aren't really as valid any more. Now I'd say I do it out of habit
and when I recommend such it's also out of habit. I guess, so long as it
works for you, that's fine. I can think of a few times where I, like you,
have had to hook things up in the most awkward ways. There was this one case
(and it'd be the one that seemed to end up being opened the most often too I
might add) where the manufacturer had done something tweaked and it was
pretty much impossible to get HDDs to sit in their slots properly. They'd go
in upside down okay if you forced them in... Unfortunately the case was mine
so it's not like I was able to just refuse to work on it. The top slot
worked, the bottom one worked, no cable in the world would fit. You could
see where the vendor had had to force the first drive into place. So that
one cable ended up backwards and with a huge twist in it and though it
worked fine it was also the same time that I learned I didn't like [name
removed as I avoid brand bashing] brand harddrives after the fourth failure
of that brand - two of which were in that box. Brings back memories, it does
it does...

Anyhow, I suspect that it's like I'd tell someone to check their mirrors
after they buckle their belt and before they start their car. In reality, I
hope in, start it, toss on a seatbelt, and maybe - just maybe - I'll check
the mirrors 20 minutes later.

--
Galen - MS MVP - Windows (Shell/User & IE)
http://dts-l.org/

"My life is spent in one long effort to escape from the commonplaces of
existence." - Sherlock Holmes
 
Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. I fixed it by switching
jumpers and uninstalling and reinstalling Nero. Thanks for giving me
the confidence that I was on the right track!

Iggy
 
In iggystooge <[email protected]> had this to say:

My reply is at the bottom of your sent message:
Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. I fixed it by
switching jumpers and uninstalling and reinstalling Nero. Thanks for
giving me the confidence that I was on the right track!

Iggy
Click to expand...

No problem but Cari beat me by a minute (on my screen) for the answer. <g> I
was almost fast enough to get that on out there in time. Ah well. It's not
that hard and it's good to know. Computer hardware can be pretty
interesting. I remember putting a kit together back when I was a wee lad but
that's after the VIC 20 had been out and it was a PET from the back of, I
think, Popular Science. I ended up going to a convention to get a disk drive
because it didn't come with one. My parent's drove me... Wow... That was 23
years ago? But, in the digression, I have a point. Today it's a lot easier
and most anyone can do it. A lot of people are worried about breaking
something. So long as you maintain good practices and think before doing you
should be all set.

For instance, if you don't have (and I know this will sound insane but bear
with me) a static free mat to work on and a grounding strap? Go ahead and
leave it plugged in. Turn it OFF of course - but leave it plugged in. That
ensures (assuming your electricity meets modern code) that you've an
established ground. Discharge static by touching something grounded and
metal before putting your paws into the case. If it's warm it's mechanical,
if it's cold it's software. Power flux causes odd errors. It's not always
fixable. And if you break it you can always replace it fairly cheap. So,
confidence and a willingness to say "oops, I messed up" and then asking for
help is all you need to learn on your own. Once you start the process you're
a long ways towards getting things going in a whole new direction - a
direction where you're able and willing to upgrade components, swap out
components, and then eventually (perhaps) you'll tackle a big job like
building your own PC. Maybe the next one will be one where you modify the
tower yourself or even install liquid cooling. So, now that you've started
be careful as it can be addicting. But it's fun and, really if you do it
piece by piece, it's not even that expensive.

--
Galen - MS MVP - Windows (Shell/User & IE)
http://dts-l.org/

"My life is spent in one long effort to escape from the commonplaces of
existence." - Sherlock Holmes
 
Galen said:
In iggystooge <[email protected]> had this to say:

My reply is at the bottom of your sent message:


No problem but Cari beat me by a minute (on my screen) for the
answer. <g> I was almost fast enough to get that on out there in
time. Ah well. It's not that hard and it's good to know. Computer
hardware can be pretty interesting. I remember putting a kit together
back when I was a wee lad but that's after the VIC 20 had been out
and it was a PET from the back of, I think, Popular Science. I ended
up going to a convention to get a disk drive because it didn't come
with one. My parent's drove me... Wow... That was 23 years ago? But,
in the digression, I have a point. Today it's a lot easier and most
anyone can do it. A lot of people are worried about breaking
something. So long as you maintain good practices and think before
doing you should be all set.
For instance, if you don't have (and I know this will sound insane
but bear with me) a static free mat to work on and a grounding strap?
Go ahead and leave it plugged in. Turn it OFF of course - but leave
it plugged in. That ensures (assuming your electricity meets modern
code) that you've an established ground. Discharge static by touching
something grounded and metal before putting your paws into the case.
If it's warm it's mechanical, if it's cold it's software. Power flux
causes odd errors. It's not always fixable. And if you break it you
can always replace it fairly cheap. So, confidence and a willingness
to say "oops, I messed up" and then asking for help is all you need
to learn on your own. Once you start the process you're a long ways
towards getting things going in a whole new direction - a direction
where you're able and willing to upgrade components, swap out
components, and then eventually (perhaps) you'll tackle a big job
like building your own PC. Maybe the next one will be one where you
modify the tower yourself or even install liquid cooling. So, now
that you've started be careful as it can be addicting. But it's fun
and, really if you do it piece by piece, it's not even that
expensive.
Click to expand...

Leaving it plugged in is a very bad idea. Not all PSUs have a switch to cut
the power. In these cases there is still power to the motherboard. Plugging
in a PCI card can cause the computer to power up. If the PSU has a switch
that kills the power and it is wired correctly (not always true with cheap
PSUs) you are correct. That's too many if's for me.

Kerry
 
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