Diode vs. Socket temp

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JM

I've got an A7N8X Deluxe and a 3200+. MBM 5 now gives me a CPU core temp
which seems to idle around 50C, while the socket temp is usually about 8
degrees lower than that. Is that about normal for this CPU or should I look
at lowering it a bit? I originally was using the pad of thermal stuff that
comes on the heatsink from the factory, but I had to remove my CPU so I took
that stuff off and put some imitation arctic silver on instead, and it seems
to be about the same temperature.
I used real arctic silver once before and didn't notice any real change from
the stock stuff, so I don't know if I can expect any better results with the
stock cooler or not.
 
I've got an A7N8X Deluxe and a 3200+. MBM 5 now gives me a CPU core temp
which seems to idle around 50C, while the socket temp is usually about 8
degrees lower than that. Is that about normal for this CPU or should I look
at lowering it a bit? I originally was using the pad of thermal stuff that
comes on the heatsink from the factory, but I had to remove my CPU so I took
that stuff off and put some imitation arctic silver on instead, and it seems
to be about the same temperature.
I used real arctic silver once before and didn't notice any real change from
the stock stuff, so I don't know if I can expect any better results with the
stock cooler or not.
Click to expand...

8C difference sounds about right, I see about 10-12C diff at full loads.
I use SpeedFan instead, it can enable the cool bit and drops idle temps by 10C.

Ed
 
I've got an A7N8X Deluxe and a 3200+. MBM 5 now gives me a CPU core temp
which seems to idle around 50C, while the socket temp is usually about 8
degrees lower than that. Is that about normal for this CPU or should I look
at lowering it a bit? I originally was using the pad of thermal stuff that
comes on the heatsink from the factory, but I had to remove my CPU so I took
that stuff off and put some imitation arctic silver on instead, and it seems
to be about the same temperature.
I used real arctic silver once before and didn't notice any real change from
the stock stuff, so I don't know if I can expect any better results with the
stock cooler or not.
Click to expand...

I have a similar system with a 2800+ processor, but I run at
50CPU/45Socket at full load (running a world weather modelling process
in the computer's "spare time"). 50/42 when idle seems a bit high, as
does an 8 degree difference between CPU and socket under those
conditions - what termperatures do you get when it is running all out?

I do believe in (and use) Arctic Silver, and I am using an aftermarket
copper heatsink and (standard) fan - I forget the make.

Please respond to the Newsgroup, so that others may benefit from the exchange.
Peter R. Fletcher
 
I have a similar system with a 2800+ processor, but I run at
50CPU/45Socket at full load (running a world weather modelling process
in the computer's "spare time"). 50/42 when idle seems a bit high, as
does an 8 degree difference between CPU and socket under those
conditions - what termperatures do you get when it is running all out?
Click to expand...

After a few quick laps in <plug>Live for Speed</plug>, MBM shows a high of
58 degrees on the CPU diode and 46 on the socket (which is only 1 degree
above the low and temp recorded for the socket just before I started the
game). Seems like the socket temp should maybe come up a bit more than
that, but maybe it needed more time?

I was previously running a 2100+ and usually saw socket temps at idle around
42 or 43 degrees. That CPU didn't have the diode sensor so I don't really
know how well the cooler was working except that it was keeping the heatsink
relatively cool I guess.
I do believe in (and use) Arctic Silver, and I am using an aftermarket
copper heatsink and (standard) fan - I forget the make.
Click to expand...

Well the stuff I used (it was the only stuff I had at the time) is I think
by Startech and it claims to be 25% silver. It says its thermal
conductivity is more than 7.5 W/m-k, if that means anything. Arctic Silver
seems to have a much higher silver content, but I don't really know if that
means a whole lot.
 
After a few quick laps in <plug>Live for Speed</plug>, MBM shows a high of
58 degrees on the CPU diode and 46 on the socket (which is only 1 degree
above the low and temp recorded for the socket just before I started the
game). Seems like the socket temp should maybe come up a bit more than
that, but maybe it needed more time?
Click to expand...

Probably. but the diode temperature would then probably also rise a
bit further The diode temperature you are seeing is well within safe
margins, if you are measuring it _while_ running all out. The diode
temperature responds very rapidly to changes in load, so running a
game, dropping back to Windows, and then (even immediately) looking at
the diode temperature will not give you reliable results.
I was previously running a 2100+ and usually saw socket temps at idle around
42 or 43 degrees. That CPU didn't have the diode sensor so I don't really
know how well the cooler was working except that it was keeping the heatsink
relatively cool I guess.

Well the stuff I used (it was the only stuff I had at the time) is I think
by Startech and it claims to be 25% silver. It says its thermal
conductivity is more than 7.5 W/m-k, if that means anything. Arctic Silver
seems to have a much higher silver content, but I don't really know if that
means a whole lot.
Click to expand...

It is probably more important to apply the compound you are using
carefully and to seat the heatsink so as to avoid voids than precisely
which compound you use. I have a feeling that you may have a less than
ideal thermal connection between your chip and your heatsink - but
probably not to the extent that you should be worrying about it.


Please respond to the Newsgroup, so that others may benefit from the exchange.
Peter R. Fletcher
 
Peter R. Fletcher said:
Probably. but the diode temperature would then probably also rise a
bit further The diode temperature you are seeing is well within safe
margins, if you are measuring it _while_ running all out. The diode
temperature responds very rapidly to changes in load, so running a
game, dropping back to Windows, and then (even immediately) looking at
the diode temperature will not give you reliable results.
Click to expand...

Sure, but what I was looking at was MBM's max reading (which I reset before
starting the game). So the hottest
it got during 5 minutes or so of playing was 58 degrees.
It is probably more important to apply the compound you are using
carefully and to seat the heatsink so as to avoid voids than precisely
which compound you use. I have a feeling that you may have a less than
ideal thermal connection between your chip and your heatsink - but
probably not to the extent that you should be worrying about it.
Click to expand...

Probably, but maybe I'll take it apart again and just make sure I put it
back together smoothly. When I put it back on last time, I seated the
heatsink without clamping it down and then pulled it off to make sure it was
spread out reasonably well but not too much.. so it may not be the most
ideal connection at the moment.
I'll post back if I manage to knock off more than a couple of degrees :)
 
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