Digital ROC GEM DEE

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Hoshisato

For colour negatives, should I use Digital ROC, GEM and DEE in the
default settings or how would you judge what negative needs what
settings or needs to have these features disabled? Most of the
negatives I scanned with ROC, GEM and DEE enabled look quite good, but
at least one came out with 'weird' colours.

Thanks
 
For colour negatives, should I use Digital ROC, GEM and DEE in the
default settings or how would you judge what negative needs what
settings or needs to have these features disabled? Most of the
negatives I scanned with ROC, GEM and DEE enabled look quite good, but
at least one came out with 'weird' colours.

There are really no rules when it comes to ROC, GEM and DEE. It's the
domain of image editing and then it depends on a person's subjective
estimation of what looks good. For example, to one person an image may
appear too grainy, but to another it may look just fine.

I personally don't use the tools but I did play with them briefly. As
you say the default settings usually produce very good results.
However, if you find that an image looks weird then try adjusting the
settings. I'm afraid there's no other way.

The only problem is that each time you do that and change the settings
you have to rescan all over again which is a pain (and it takes time).

So - if you don't know this already - but those tools are also
available as standalone Photoshop plug-ins which actually have even
more features then the cut-down versions included with NikonScan.

But the main advantage is you can then apply them to any image
repeatedly. So there is no need to rescan like you do with the
"built-in" NikonScan versions. Also, you can use the standalone
versions on images from your digicam and all other sources.

You can download all three - GEM (Grain Equalisation Management), ROC
(Restoration Of Color) and SHO (Shadow & Highlight Optimized) from
Kodak as a Photoshop plug-in.

I only have the original link handy:
http://www.asf.com
but I think that will point you to the current Kodak site repository.

BTW, roughly speaking, "SHO" is the standalone equivalent of DEE.

The try-out versions put a watermark until you purchase them.

Don.
 
Don said:
There are really no rules when it comes to ROC, GEM and DEE. It's the
domain of image editing and then it depends on a person's subjective
estimation of what looks good. For example, to one person an image may
appear too grainy, but to another it may look just fine.

I personally don't use the tools but I did play with them briefly. As
you say the default settings usually produce very good results.
However, if you find that an image looks weird then try adjusting the
settings. I'm afraid there's no other way.

The only problem is that each time you do that and change the settings
you have to rescan all over again which is a pain (and it takes time).

So - if you don't know this already - but those tools are also
available as standalone Photoshop plug-ins which actually have even
more features then the cut-down versions included with NikonScan.

But the main advantage is you can then apply them to any image
repeatedly. So there is no need to rescan like you do with the
"built-in" NikonScan versions. Also, you can use the standalone
versions on images from your digicam and all other sources.

You can download all three - GEM (Grain Equalisation Management), ROC
(Restoration Of Color) and SHO (Shadow & Highlight Optimized) from
Kodak as a Photoshop plug-in.

I only have the original link handy:
http://www.asf.com
but I think that will point you to the current Kodak site repository.

BTW, roughly speaking, "SHO" is the standalone equivalent of DEE.

The try-out versions put a watermark until you purchase them.

Thanks, I'll certainly get the try out versions so that at least I can
understand better what they actually do.
 
Hoshisato said:
For colour negatives, should I use Digital ROC, GEM and DEE in the
default settings or how would you judge what negative needs what
settings or needs to have these features disabled?

I'd recommend _disabling_ all of the above and doing the corrections by
hand.

Except for ICE, automagic anything will do the wrong thing at least some of
the time. For grain reduction, NeatImage or NoiseNinja are far more flexible
and controllable than GEM. NeatImage does a lovely job of cleaning up Reala
scans from the Nikon 8000, for example.

But the real advantage to not using the above is that you don't have to
rescan if one of the above backstabs you.
Most of the
negatives I scanned with ROC, GEM and DEE enabled look quite good, but
at least one came out with 'weird' colours.

See what I mean<g>?

David J. Littleboy
Tokyo, Japan
 
For colour negatives, should I use Digital ROC, GEM and DEE in the

Generally you leave those turned off.
default settings or how would you judge what negative needs what
settings or needs to have these features disabled? Most of the
negatives I scanned with ROC, GEM and DEE enabled look quite good, but
at least one came out with 'weird' colours.

Unless an image needs one or all they will most likely degrade a good
image. ROC is seldom used except with faded negatives or slides. GEM
is also seldom needed.

The best solution is to try scanning without them, then scan the
negative with each and in combination at various levels. This will be
time consuming, but it will give you a very good feel for what they
can and can not do. I've found with my Nikon LS5000ED they will
degrade the image from good negatives and slides, but are great when
needed. I've used ROC on some faded Kodachrome slides that looked to
beyond help. The result looked almost as good as the originals before
they faded. I've had GEM and DEE make slides look garish. OTOH when
used sparingly when needed they really helped.

Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com
Roger Halstead (K8RI & ARRL life member)
(N833R, S# CD-2 Worlds oldest Debonair)
www.rogerhalstead.com
 
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