CPU cooler recommendations?

  • Thread starter Thread starter AAvK
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AAvK

Turns out my machine shuts off during game play because the
P4 gets too hot, using the stock Intel heat sink and fan. It reaches
86.5ºC and POW!... OFF!

Anyone know of the greatest fan and heat sink that ever existed?
(not interested in a liquid system, too strapped, but I could do $50)

TIA,
 
Turns out my machine shuts off during game play because the
P4 gets too hot, using the stock Intel heat sink and fan. It reaches
86.5ºC and POW!... OFF!

Anyone know of the greatest fan and heat sink that ever existed?
(not interested in a liquid system, too strapped, but I could do $50)

TIA,
Click to expand...



I'm using one of these on my p4 3.2 Prescott and it keeps my CPU real
cool :) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835118119


Just make sure you got room for it cause it is large :)
 
I am currently, and happily, using the Coolermaster Hyper48.
http://tinyurl.com/7rkfy

Let me add that even with the stock fan and heatsink, a temperature of 86C
suggests that you may also have poor airflow in your case. That being the
case, mine and Bandit's good suggestions will only provide a partial
solution. Make sure you have at least one intake fan (typically at the front
of the case) and one exhaust fan (typically at the back of the case) - two
intake and two exhaust would be closer to the ideal for gaming machines. For
example, I have a P4 3.0E, 2 80mm intake fans, 2 80mm exhaust fans, and the
Hyper48 cooler (w/ arctic silver 5 thermal compound). With this setup my
idle temp is around 44C, and my load temp is around 55C.

A few more tips:
- replace any traditional IDE cables with rounded cables (promotes better
airflow)
- keep the inside of your case as dust-free as possible
- make sure your case is stored in a spot with good ventillation

Good luck.

-phil
 
Phil said:
I am currently, and happily, using the Coolermaster Hyper48.
http://tinyurl.com/7rkfy

Let me add that even with the stock fan and heatsink, a temperature of 86C
suggests that you may also have poor airflow in your case. That being the
case, mine and Bandit's good suggestions will only provide a partial
solution. Make sure you have at least one intake fan (typically at the front
of the case) and one exhaust fan (typically at the back of the case) - two
intake and two exhaust would be closer to the ideal for gaming machines. For
example, I have a P4 3.0E, 2 80mm intake fans, 2 80mm exhaust fans, and the
Hyper48 cooler (w/ arctic silver 5 thermal compound). With this setup my
idle temp is around 44C, and my load temp is around 55C.
Click to expand...

Do the 3.0s run that much hotter than the 3.4s? I have a 3.4 Prescott,
socket 775, that usually idles under 40C. I have one more intake and
exhaust fan than you do but it shouldn't make that much of a difference.

A few more tips:
- replace any traditional IDE cables with rounded cables (promotes better
airflow)
- keep the inside of your case as dust-free as possible
- make sure your case is stored in a spot with good ventillation

Good luck.

-phil
Click to expand...
 
I would think, generally, that a 3.4 would run a tad hotter than a 3.0, all
else being equal. However, it is my understanding that the LGA775 prescott
chips run slightly cooler than their S478 cousins. Another explanation for
your lower temp could be your case. I have mid-tower and I know that my
temps would drop a few degress if I moved my gear to a full tower.

-phil

Michael W. Ryder said:
Phil said:
I am currently, and happily, using the Coolermaster Hyper48.
http://tinyurl.com/7rkfy

Let me add that even with the stock fan and heatsink, a temperature of
86C suggests that you may also have poor airflow in your case. That being
the case, mine and Bandit's good suggestions will only provide a partial
solution. Make sure you have at least one intake fan (typically at the
front of the case) and one exhaust fan (typically at the back of the
case) - two intake and two exhaust would be closer to the ideal for
gaming machines. For example, I have a P4 3.0E, 2 80mm intake fans, 2
80mm exhaust fans, and the Hyper48 cooler (w/ arctic silver 5 thermal
compound). With this setup my idle temp is around 44C, and my load temp
is around 55C.
Click to expand...

Do the 3.0s run that much hotter than the 3.4s? I have a 3.4 Prescott,
socket 775, that usually idles under 40C. I have one more intake and
exhaust fan than you do but it shouldn't make that much of a difference.
Click to expand...
 
Do the 3.0s run that much hotter than the 3.4s? I have a 3.4 Prescott,
socket 775, that usually idles under 40C. I have one more intake and exhaust fan than you do but it shouldn't make that much of a
difference.
Click to expand...
Cripes I am in bad shape then. Mine is two year old P4 2.6c/ht chip...
idling at 53.5ºC while 'net cruising, this SUCKS!
 
I am currently, and happily, using the Coolermaster Hyper48.
http://tinyurl.com/7rkfy

Let me add that even with the stock fan and heatsink, a temperature of 86C suggests that you may also have poor airflow in your
case. That being the case, mine and Bandit's good suggestions will only provide a partial solution. Make sure you have at least
one intake fan (typically at the front of the case) and one exhaust fan (typically at the back of the case) - two intake and two
exhaust would be closer to the ideal for gaming machines. For example, I have a P4 3.0E, 2 80mm intake fans, 2 80mm exhaust fans,
and the Hyper48 cooler (w/ arctic silver 5 thermal compound). With this setup my idle temp is around 44C, and my load temp is
around 55C.

A few more tips:
- replace any traditional IDE cables with rounded cables (promotes better airflow)
- keep the inside of your case as dust-free as possible
- make sure your case is stored in a spot with good ventillation

Good luck.

-phil
Click to expand...
OK that makes a lot more sense then. Currently the case's side panel is off, that
panel has a fan vent/hole with a fan attached, so when I install the new PSu I will
get some dust out and reattach the panel and make sure it is taking air "into" the
case. I have two fans exhaling in the back, and the new PSu has a single 140mm
fan, pretty big, that should balance things more until I replace the CPU cooler.

Thanks much for the advice!
 
Once you're all set, see what your temps are with and without that side fan
running. In some instances, side fans actually have negative impact on
temps, since they tend to disrupt the front to back airflow inside the case.

-phil
 
Once you're all set, see what your temps are with and without that side fan
running. In some instances, side fans actually have negative impact on temps, since they tend to disrupt the front to back airflow
inside the case.

-phil
Click to expand...
OK so, it can be flipped.

I took a good close look at that hyper 48 outfit, man that is a piece of tech!
It is beautiful, but it doesn't make any sense to me in a way... it has heat pipes
which wick away heat while the fan blows air at the CPU, seems a little
backwards.

This is the one I though made sense which I'd like to try:
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16835112010
with this fan:
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.asp?item=N82E16835180085
or this outfit:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835112011

The fans on these suck hot air "away" from the sink rather than blowing CPU
heat all over the mobo, northbridge and RAM. It has good reviews. in this
case, I would have the side vent fan blowing that exact hot air out of the case,
the smaller rear 40mm fan taking air into the case, and the front ventilation
of the case just has a dust filter, and maybe a fan as well.

Whoops theres fed-ex with the PSu, gotta run...
 
It may seem counter-intuitive to have the fan blowing toward the heatsink,
when the heatsink is working to pull heat away from the cpu, but it seems to
work. Actually, the fan on the Hyper48 can be removed and flipped, if that's
what you prefer. However, the default assembly is the superior
configuration, in my experience. My idle cpu temp rose by 1 to 2 degrees, on
average, with the fan blowing away from the heatsink.

One note about the Hyper48 (which applies to many of the heavier heatsink
fan assemblies): You must remove the motherboard in order to install the
included backplate, since these heavier HSFs require the extra support. Not
to worry, it's not that difficult, and everything you need is included in
the package.

-phil
 
It may seem counter-intuitive to have the fan blowing toward the heatsink,
when the heatsink is working to pull heat away from the cpu, but it seems to work. Actually, the fan on the Hyper48 can be removed
and flipped, if that's what you prefer. However, the default assembly is the superior configuration, in my experience. My idle cpu
temp rose by 1 to 2 degrees, on average, with the fan blowing away from the heatsink.

One note about the Hyper48 (which applies to many of the heavier heatsink fan assemblies): You must remove the motherboard in
order to install the included backplate, since these heavier HSFs require the extra support. Not to worry, it's not that
difficult, and everything you need is included in the package.

-phil
Click to expand...
Yes the assembly is the same necessity as yours, with the Alpha brand. I'd be
willing to do the work though. As far as noise, yours is quieter but more costly,
and probably doesn't make much of a diff because of the old case I have with
it's side fan.
 
It may seem counter-intuitive to have the fan blowing toward the heatsink,
when the heatsink is working to pull heat away from the cpu, but it seems to
work. Actually, the fan on the Hyper48 can be removed and flipped, if that's
what you prefer. However, the default assembly is the superior
configuration, in my experience. My idle cpu temp rose by 1 to 2 degrees, on
average, with the fan blowing away from the heatsink.
Click to expand...

As a technician on the field of energies placing the fan in the
position "Blowtrue" is the best way it can be placed. because the
static pressure is "higher in front of the fan" and secondly because
of the dynamic pressure is higher on a much more long distance.
Placing the fan in the position drawtrue will add the need for a
better fan with higher cfm "cubic feet per minute" for a better air
circulation. Also this position reduce the pressure between the fins
so less air circulate threw the "radiator" this occasionnate a loss of
pressure giving resistance " i call that a vacuum of air".

A cheap upgrade any one could do is use a docking mod 8cm/6cm add a
8cm fan like a vantech thermaflow, stick that on the adaptor of the
stock fan and viola.

http://www.coolerguys.com/fanadapters.html
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556041122.html



One note about the Hyper48 (which applies to many of the heavier heatsink
fan assemblies): You must remove the motherboard in order to install the
included backplate, since these heavier HSFs require the extra support. Not
to worry, it's not that difficult, and everything you need is included in
the package.

-phil
Click to expand...
 
Turns out my machine shuts off during game play because the
P4 gets too hot, using the stock Intel heat sink and fan. It reaches
86.5ºC and POW!... OFF!

Anyone know of the greatest fan and heat sink that ever existed?
(not interested in a liquid system, too strapped, but I could do $50)
Click to expand...

If you want a CPU heat-sink that does not exceed the Intel or AMD
weight specs, get the Zalman CNPS7000 AlCu "flower" cooler.
Excellent quiet design and better than any stock heat-sink. The
all-copper version is very slightly better but the weight exceed the
motherboard/socket weight recommendations. Cools the
voltage-regulator capacitors and regulators a treat too. Check that
the vertical profile fits over the components on your board and that
it does not clash with the power-supply housing. Price around $35.

I will not get into arguments over heat-sink compounds. Just NEVER use

heat-sink GLUES, and always spread any heat-sink compound very
THINLY and very evenly. For a perfectly flat heat-spreader and
well-polished flat heatsink, only enough material to be equivalent to
2 rice-grains is more than sufficient, work out from the center and
don't smear over the edge of the spreader.

Not grossly exceeding the CPU heat-sink weight spec is very important
if you ever intend to transport your PC (and don't wish to remove the
heatsink before transport) ... want a permanently-damaged
motherboard ?

Make sure that you have adequate ventilation INTO and OUT
of your case. The perforations on the front of some cases with
front-fans are a joke - the fan is totally throttled. Time for the
power-drill.

Always install a rear case-fan. If you are selecting a new
power-supply, always choose a dual-fan unit with one fan
facing the CPU, the other fan exhausting from the PS to
the rear.

In a standard layout mid-tower case, one very useful trick to give
plenty of INTAKE air directly to the CPU, Northbridge (if present) and
memory area is to install one of the dual or triple-fan Hard-disk
coolers in a 5.25 bay but WITHOUT any hard-disk. Very inexpensive..
$10 at CompUSA for a triple-fan cooler ( with removable dust filter )

Remember to clean all filters, fans and heatsinks every 3 months.
You will be horrified by how much dust can accumulate in a
computer-case under a desk.

John Lewis
- Technology early-birds are flying guinea-pigs.
 
Great reply, thanks for all the typing!
If you want a CPU heat-sink that does not exceed the Intel or AMD
weight specs, get the Zalman CNPS7000 AlCu "flower" cooler.
Excellent quiet design and better than any stock heat-sink. The
all-copper version is very slightly better but the weight exceed the
motherboard/socket weight recommendations. Cools the
voltage-regulator capacitors and regulators a treat too. Check that
the vertical profile fits over the components on your board and that
it does not clash with the power-supply housing. Price around $35.
Click to expand...

I do want to exceed specs, so it is cooler than standard for gaming.
And I did look at those copper/aluminum "flowers" (lol), no room for
them because the case is an old standard design of full tower, I think
by Antec. Too narrow front to back, so all the cables get in the way.
It could use another 4".
I will not get into arguments over heat-sink compounds. Just NEVER use
Click to expand...
heat-sink GLUES, and always spread any heat-sink compound very
THINLY and very evenly. For a perfectly flat heat-spreader and
well-polished flat heatsink, only enough material to be equivalent to
2 rice-grains is more than sufficient, work out from the center and
don't smear over the edge of the spreader.
Click to expand...

Actually, today I just rebuilt the machine all the way. I used radio shack
thermal grease... for temporary, but only one "rice kernel's worth". I did
some lapping on the Intel stock sink to flatten it more. From a 600 grit
diamond plate to 1200 grit paper on marble.
Not grossly exceeding the CPU heat-sink weight spec is very important
if you ever intend to transport your PC (and don't wish to remove the
heatsink before transport) ... want a permanently-damaged
motherboard ?
Click to expand...

Deeply considered. No transporting though. I like the idea of the Alpha
company's sink, black and rectangular and large. it requires the fan
flipped so it draws hot air away from it.
Make sure that you have adequate ventilation INTO and OUT
of your case. The perforations on the front of some cases with
front-fans are a joke - the fan is totally throttled. Time for the
power-drill.
Click to expand...

This case has the side fan port, and the fan is drawing air into the case
straight at the components. This will reverse of course, should I decide
on the Alpha sink.
Always install a rear case-fan. If you are selecting a new
power-supply, always choose a dual-fan unit with one fan
facing the CPU, the other fan exhausting from the PS to
the rear.
Click to expand...

New Coolmax CR-550B installed today actually. 550 watts, it has a
single 140mm fan on it's bottom and a wide open grating on the back
and 3 or 4 speed settings, including automatic. at $57, it stole my heart.
Above the PSu is an 80mm fan shooting out as well.
In a standard layout mid-tower case, one very useful trick to give
plenty of INTAKE air directly to the CPU, Northbridge (if present) and
memory area is to install one of the dual or triple-fan Hard-disk
coolers in a 5.25 bay but WITHOUT any hard-disk. Very inexpensive..
$10 at CompUSA for a triple-fan cooler ( with removable dust filter )
Click to expand...

The case is too sadly designed for that, it needs another 4" depth, front
to back. So, the main HD is in the top 5-1/4" bay with brackets to hold
it, and a dual fan cooler attached. Hard to explain. The case was not
designed for gaming and cooling that is effective enough for it.
Remember to clean all filters, fans and heatsinks every 3 months.
You will be horrified by how much dust can accumulate in a
computer-case under a desk.
Click to expand...

It's EXACTLY why I did the rebuild today. I got down and took a close
look and I was shocked to dust literally caked up here and there, as well
totaly clogging the cpu's heat sink, caked in the fan blade throughout the
whole machine, I was amazed at myself too. previously, it had been idling
at 58ºC! NOW it idles at 44ºC TTLG... but I did the whole job all day.

THREE MONTHS??? cripes...

John Lewis
- Technology early-birds are flying guinea-pigs.

Thanks again for the great reply of advice!
 
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