!!!!!Computer won't boot up with SATA dvd burner connected

  • Thread starter Thread starter Virgil2U
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Virgil2U

I have a gateway GT5244E desktop computer and I have tried to install a new sata dvd burner into it and it will recognize it in CMOS but will not go past the cmos stage, It just stops there and will not go any further. I know the drive is good because it worked in another system. I don't know if the stock power supply with the system is not powerful enough for SATA or not, I believe it to be 240 watt, the motherboard is a MS-7249 with 4 SATA connectors and I have tried all 4 connections and still will not go any further than the boot up window. If anyone can give me any advice on this it will be greatly appreciated. I don't have another power supply handy to swap out and before I am to buy a new one I would like to know if this could be reason it will not work with the SATA dvd burner connected.

Thanks,
Virgil


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Virgil2U said:
I have a gateway GT5244E desktop computer and I have tried to install a new sata dvd burner into
it and it will recognize it in CMOS but will not go past the cmos stage, It just stops there
and will not go any further. I know the drive is good because it worked in another system.
I don't know if the stock power supply with the system is not powerful enough for SATA or
not, I believe it to be 240 watt, the motherboard is a MS-7249 with 4 SATA connectors and
I have tried all 4 connections and still will not go any further than the boot up window.
If anyone can give me any advice on this it will be greatly appreciated. I don't have
another power supply handy to swap out and before I am to buy a new one I would like
to know if this could be reason it will not work with the SATA dvd burner connected.

Thanks,
Virgil
Click to expand...

Micro BTX
Dimensions: 10.5 × 10.4 inches (strange, if that was true, larger than normal)

MCH (northbridge): ATI RC410 Rev. A12
ICH (southbridge): ATI SB450 Rev. A13

Primary IDE connector
Secondary IDE connector
Four Serial ATA connectors

*******

I tried doing a few searches, to see if there was a SATA ATAPI problem,
but don't see anything there.

If you can see the identity text string in the BIOS, for the optical
drive, then the cabling is probably working. You could change
motherboard ports, as part of your testing (use a different SATA plug).
The ATI Southbridge, might have two separate logic blocks to control
the four ports or something. But that's a long shot.

Power shouldn't be a problem. An optical drive draws lots
of power, when you have a disc in the tray, but not so much
when it's sitting there idle, with an empty tray. Even at
240W, I doubt your computer was "falling over", because
of an extra 5 watts max to run an empty optical drive.

So I'm stumped.

Some chips, like the VIA ones, have problems when
SATA II drives are plugged into the motherboard. But at most,
if something like that was happening (300MB/sec device
can't negotiate properly with 150MB/sec Southbridge),
the device simply wouldn't be recognized, and you'd still be
able to boot.

Does the motherboard have a RAID setting for the SATA ports ?
Do you already have a RAID array connected ?

Don't make too many changes to the BIOS settings, without
first writing down the settings that work. If you change the
BIOS settings, it could prevent booting because the OS drivers
would no longer match.

By the way, exactly what does this mean ?

"will not go any further than the boot up window"

The BIOS is in control at first, and then at some point,
your OS takes over, and may put an animation on the screen,
while files are loading. In some cases, if you enable
"boot logging" in the OS, perhaps from Windows Safe Mode,
you might get to see more activity on the screen.

If it was my machine, I'd slap a Linux LiveCD in it, and
see if the LiveCD would boot or not. Even a Windows Installer CD
would do. If it did, then I'd know the hardware was good. I use
both OSes here, as the occasion arises.

If you really thought it was a power issue, and you had
some kind of bootable optical media, you could try unplugging
the hard drive power and data cables (with the power off).

When SATA optical first came out, there were a few issues.
This table, is an example of the "bleeding edge" compatibility
at the time. But things should be better now. Too bad there
are no ATI chipsets here.

"px-716sa motherboard compatability listing"
http://www.plextoramericas.com/index.php/faq?fileid=7&task=download

Paul
 
Just shooting into the wind, but is the computer possibly trying to boot
from the new drive, as in the boot order is set to boot from the DVD
first, if it finds one?
Click to expand...

it is set to boot first to a dvd drive on ide 2 master.
 
If there is no CD/DVD in the drive the BIOS should go on to boot from
the next device in the list, I would think a floppy (if any) and then
the hard drive.

The BIOS may need an update (flash) to handle the SATA CD, perhaps its
first generation software that really didn't expect SATA CD drives. I
believe that SATA CD drives came out well after SATA hard drives.

John
Click to expand...


It is set to boot to first cd and then floppy. I have thought of a
bios update but I have not been successful in finding a bios for the
system.
 
Micro BTX
Dimensions: 10.5 × 10.4 inches (strange, if that was true, larger than normal)

MCH (northbridge): ATI RC410 Rev. A12
ICH (southbridge): ATI SB450 Rev. A13

Primary IDE connector
Secondary IDE connector
Four Serial ATA connectors

*******

I tried doing a few searches, to see if there was a SATA ATAPI problem,
but don't see anything there.

If you can see the identity text string in the BIOS, for the optical
drive, then the cabling is probably working. You could change
motherboard ports, as part of your testing (use a different SATA plug).
The ATI Southbridge, might have two separate logic blocks to control
the four ports or something. But that's a long shot.

Power shouldn't be a problem. An optical drive draws lots
of power, when you have a disc in the tray, but not so much
when it's sitting there idle, with an empty tray. Even at
240W, I doubt your computer was "falling over", because
of an extra 5 watts max to run an empty optical drive.

So I'm stumped.

Some chips, like the VIA ones, have problems when
SATA II drives are plugged into the motherboard. But at most,
if something like that was happening (300MB/sec device
can't negotiate properly with 150MB/sec Southbridge),
the device simply wouldn't be recognized, and you'd still be
able to boot.

Does the motherboard have a RAID setting for the SATA ports ?
Do you already have a RAID array connected ?

Don't make too many changes to the BIOS settings, without
first writing down the settings that work. If you change the
BIOS settings, it could prevent booting because the OS drivers
would no longer match.

By the way, exactly what does this mean ?

"will not go any further than the boot up window"

The BIOS is in control at first, and then at some point,
your OS takes over, and may put an animation on the screen,
while files are loading. In some cases, if you enable
"boot logging" in the OS, perhaps from Windows Safe Mode,
you might get to see more activity on the screen.

If it was my machine, I'd slap a Linux LiveCD in it, and
see if the LiveCD would boot or not. Even a Windows Installer CD
would do. If it did, then I'd know the hardware was good. I use
both OSes here, as the occasion arises.

If you really thought it was a power issue, and you had
some kind of bootable optical media, you could try unplugging
the hard drive power and data cables (with the power off).

When SATA optical first came out, there were a few issues.
This table, is an example of the "bleeding edge" compatibility
at the time. But things should be better now. Too bad there
are no ATI chipsets here.

"px-716sa motherboard compatability listing"
http://www.plextoramericas.com/index.php/faq?fileid=7&task=download

Paul
Click to expand...

I have tried all of the 4 sata connections with no luck and I had
misidentified the motherboard, it is a MS-7248 not 49.

By the way, exactly what does this mean ?
"will not go any further than the boot up window" What I mean by that is it only goes as far as the screen with gateway logo on it
Click to expand...

m I am really stumped on this but it does not matter if their is
anything in the drive or not. I do not know what good it would do to
put a linux installer or a windows installer cd in it when the
computer will not boot up far enough to see the cd. One thing that
did happen on the first night I had tried to install it was that I
kept trying it so many times that the chassis cooling fan which
operates to cool the cpu stopped working and the cpu started to
overheat and shut down the computer. I identified the problem with
the fan being that it stopped getting power from the motherboard
connector but once I removed the sata dvd burner and let the computer
cool down it then started back up and went into windows. That was one
reason I thought maybe it was a power supply problem to stop the
cooling fan to get electric power.
 
MASTER said:
I have tried all of the 4 sata connections with no luck and I had
misidentified the motherboard, it is a MS-7248 not 49.

By the way, exactly what does this mean ?

m I am really stumped on this but it does not matter if their is
anything in the drive or not. I do not know what good it would do to
put a linux installer or a windows installer cd in it when the
computer will not boot up far enough to see the cd. One thing that
did happen on the first night I had tried to install it was that I
kept trying it so many times that the chassis cooling fan which
operates to cool the cpu stopped working and the cpu started to
overheat and shut down the computer. I identified the problem with
the fan being that it stopped getting power from the motherboard
connector but once I removed the sata dvd burner and let the computer
cool down it then started back up and went into windows. That was one
reason I thought maybe it was a power supply problem to stop the
cooling fan to get electric power.
Click to expand...

If you're seeing the Gateway logo, I'm guessing that is still the
BIOS that is doing that. And you're right, if it's stuck in the
BIOS, then Windows versus Linux disc, won't make a difference.

In some BIOS setup screens, there is an option to "turn off"
the colorful logo, and then you can see text error messages underneath.
(I run all my computers, with the logo turned off, so I can
see the text instead.)

But even if you do that, some BIOS will just present a
flashing cursor in the upper left hand corner, when there
is an issue at boot time. For example, some BIOS get "stuck",
when you plug in a USB card reader, and they get confused by
trying to evaluate the card reader for boot devices. Disconnecting
the card reader, fixes that one. Your SATA problem shouldn't be
quite as bad, and should have "just worked".

I don't have good charts, for all chipsets with respect to
SATA ATAPI compatibility. ATAPI is the packet standard for
optical drives. When SATA optical drives first came out
(Plextor), compatibility wasn't that good. Your SB450 probably
came out, after that period of time.

Your Southbridge might not have a heatsink on it, and you may be
able to see the part number, like SB450 or the like, if it was
an ATI chipset motherboard. You may be able to Google, using the
chipset name, and see if others have had issues with that chip.

You could also return the drive, and get an IDE one instead of
SATA. That might solve the problem for you.

I use one of these, when I need to convert a SATA device, so it'll
run on a ribbon cable. But for the price of one of these, you can
buy a brand new burner. So this would not be a cost effective solution.
So far, I've never had a protocol issue, with this one. It just
works. I typically use this for temporary hookups, like fitting
my 500GB SATA backup drive, to an older IDE ribbon cable computer.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200156

Paul
 
I have tried all of the 4 sata connections with no luck and I had
misidentified the motherboard, it is a MS-7248 not 49.

By the way, exactly what does this mean ?
it only goes as far as the screen with gateway logo on it

m I am really stumped on this but it does not matter if their is
anything in the drive or not. I do not know what good it would do to
put a linux installer or a windows installer cd in it when the
computer will not boot up far enough to see the cd. One thing that
did happen on the first night I had tried to install it was that I
kept trying it so many times that the chassis cooling fan which
operates to cool the cpu stopped working and the cpu started to
overheat and shut down the computer. I identified the problem with
the fan being that it stopped getting power from the motherboard
connector but once I removed the sata dvd burner and let the computer
cool down it then started back up and went into windows. That was one
reason I thought maybe it was a power supply problem to stop the
cooling fan to get electric power.
Click to expand...

What is the exact model of DVD burner that you are trying to install?
 
A chassis cooling fan header on the mother board is for a case fan.
There should be an independent header on the mother board labeled
something like CPU FAN. Make sure that is correctly connected. Off hand
I don't know if the two supply the same amount of power but its
certainly worth checking.

If what you wrote about the chassis fan was just an oversight and indeed
things are connected correctly then what is the reason you no longer
suspect the power supply?

The CPU fan not running with the burner connected screams power supply
problems to me. A failing power supply can cause flaky problems - I'm
talking off-the-wall problems. 240 watts is pretty low on the pecking
order anyway and who knows what piece of junk Gateway happened to stick
in that box. Maybe you could borrow a power supply from a (really) good
friend :) -- Nah, probably not.

Seriously, look at Newegg for a 400 watt or larger power supply but be
sure and Google for reviews. Don't just take Newegg's reviews at face
value for that type of item. You will want one rated 80% or better. One
of the most important items in a computer is the power supply, if that
is underpowered or flaky, literally anything can happen. If you decide
to go that route make sure the power supply you order will suit your
motherboard and fit in your case.

I would also check the mother board for blown caps. I am sure Paul (who
also responded above) could help you in that case if you aren't sure
what to look for. He is *much* more knowledgeable than me.

John
Click to expand...


I will have to purchase a new power supply since I don't have another
that will go into it. I have checked some out on price watch and am
thinking about a cheifmax brand if I have the name right.
 
MASTER said:
I will have to purchase a new power supply since I don't have another
that will go into it. I have checked some out on price watch and am
thinking about a cheifmax brand if I have the name right.
Click to expand...

Picking power supplies isn't a lot of fun. There are a great many
brands that aren't worth buying. Use the reviews on Newegg, to
get some idea of the brands which don't fail, and the ones that do.

Gateway GT5244E Desktop Computer
http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/2900928/2900928nv.shtml

Component list
http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/2900928/2900928cl3.shtml

Power Supplies
6506044R - Delta 300 Watt Power Supply
http://cdnsupport.gateway.com/s/Power/WMEDPS-300PB-1A/LABEL.jpg

6506045R - HIPRO 300-Watt Power Supply (no picture available)

+5 V 20A max.
+12 V 18A max.
-12 V 0.8A max.
+5 VSB 3A max. (3 amps on that small a unit??? Overkill.)
+3.3 V 20A max.

The maximum output power not to exceed 300 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V shall not exceed 120 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V and +12 V shall not exceed 280 W.

6506071R - 300-Watt Power Supply uATX 20 Pin Non-PFC
(No picture or useful specs available)

So there are some numbers to go by, to match the supply. You can use
the label on your current power supply, as a guide like those
numbers.

This is an example of a supply that might swap in. 86% of
reviews are favorable. The unit is 70% efficient (the industry
standard years ago was 68%, so this is a legacy design).
It's unlikely to have power factor correction, so should work
with even dirt cheap UPS (uninterruptable power supplies).
The only gotcha, might be cable length, and there is no way to
check. What matters is whether they have enough max current.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103013

+5 V 28A max. (20 amps is my safe minimum)
+12V1 18A max. <--- main cable, hard drives
+12V2 18A max. <--- CPU cable
-12 V 0.5A max. (not critical)
+5 VSB 2.5A max. (2 amps would be my minimum)
+3.3 V 30A max. (20 amps is my safe minimum)

The maximum output power not to exceed 400 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V shall not exceed 150 W.
12V1 plus 12V2 shall not exceed 348W (29 amps)

That should do the job.

You can certainly go "up-scale" and buy a monster supply, but
some of the housings on the high capacity supplies, are a bit
longer than normal, and won't fit well in a small case. To
balance that, a supply with "modular wiring", helps eliminate
cable clutter, and can clean up the cabling mess.

The modern supplies with "Active PFC", we're not sure how well
they do with older UPS designs. It's nice to do the power
company a favor, by using PFC, but it doesn't help your
electric bill (reactive power isn't billed at home in N.A.).

Amazon has reviews as well. There are two reviews of a
Chiefmax branded supply here for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Chiefmax-450W-Power-Supply-Connector/dp/B00083V39Q

I'm not even sure at this point, it's a power supply issue.
If it was my computer, I would "load shed" first, by simplifying
the configuration to save as much power as possible. Like,
disconnect the hard drive and retest, and see if it'll boot
a Linux or Windows installer CD. It sounds more like a
BIOS issue of some sort, perhaps fixable by using an
IDE burner instead.

Good luck,
Paul
 
It is a Samsung TSST sata dvd burner.
Click to expand...
That is too generic of a description. What i was getting at was that your
motherboard is a SATA 1 type board limited to 150 MB/s speed, and its
possible that its not behaving properly with a SATA DVD burner running at 300
MS/s speed or SATA II.

Hard drives usually have a jumper so that you can slow them down to make the
motherboard behave, but its doubtfull that the DVD has one. But it would be
worth a check to see if it does.

What is the exact model number?????
 
Virgil2U said:
I have a gateway GT5244E desktop computer and I have tried to install
a new sata dvd burner into it and it will recognize it in CMOS but
will not go past the cmos stage, It just stops there and will not go
any further. I know the drive is good because it worked in another
system. I don't know if the stock power supply with the system is
not powerful enough for SATA or not, I believe it to be 240 watt, the
motherboard is a MS-7249 with 4 SATA connectors and I have tried all
4 connections and still will not go any further than the boot up
window. If anyone can give me any advice on this it will be greatly
appreciated. I don't have another power supply handy to swap out and
before I am to buy a new one I would like to know if this could be
reason it will not work with the SATA dvd burner connected.

Thanks,
Virgil


--------------= Posted using GrabIt =----------------
------= Binary Usenet downloading made easy =---------
-= Get GrabIt for free from http://www.shemes.com/ =-
Click to expand...

Might either of below links be of any use!

SATA Speed Selection Jumper;

<http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/faqView.do?b2b_bbs_msg_id=121>

or; http://preview.tinyurl.com/3755ap


MS-7248 BIOS

<http://support.gateway.com/support/...board BIOSVersion: W7248AG2.10H&uid=293346879>

or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6ff7lvy
 
That is too generic of a description. What i was getting at was that your
motherboard is a SATA 1 type board limited to 150 MB/s speed, and its
possible that its not behaving properly with a SATA DVD burner running at 300
MS/s speed or SATA II.

Hard drives usually have a jumper so that you can slow them down to make the
motherboard behave, but its doubtfull that the DVD has one. But it would be
worth a check to see if it does.

What is the exact model number?????
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion, the model is SH-S223 and from the manual I
found online it has a burst rate of 1.5 GB'S. And no jumpers on the
drive that I can find. I don't even know if I have the proper type of
cable to it, the one I have is a all in one thing which as a power
connector and the sata connector which goes to the motherboard and the
power comes from one of the regular 4 pin molex power connectors. My
power supply does not have any SATA power connectors, only the regular
ide 4 pin molex connectors.
Click to expand...
 
Picking power supplies isn't a lot of fun. There are a great many
brands that aren't worth buying. Use the reviews on Newegg, to
get some idea of the brands which don't fail, and the ones that do.

Gateway GT5244E Desktop Computer
http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/2900928/2900928nv.shtml

Component list
http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/2900928/2900928cl3.shtml

Power Supplies
6506044R - Delta 300 Watt Power Supply
http://cdnsupport.gateway.com/s/Power/WMEDPS-300PB-1A/LABEL.jpg

6506045R - HIPRO 300-Watt Power Supply (no picture available)

+5 V 20A max.
+12 V 18A max.
-12 V 0.8A max.
+5 VSB 3A max. (3 amps on that small a unit??? Overkill.)
+3.3 V 20A max.

The maximum output power not to exceed 300 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V shall not exceed 120 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V and +12 V shall not exceed 280 W.

6506071R - 300-Watt Power Supply uATX 20 Pin Non-PFC
(No picture or useful specs available)

So there are some numbers to go by, to match the supply. You can use
the label on your current power supply, as a guide like those
numbers.

This is an example of a supply that might swap in. 86% of
reviews are favorable. The unit is 70% efficient (the industry
standard years ago was 68%, so this is a legacy design).
It's unlikely to have power factor correction, so should work
with even dirt cheap UPS (uninterruptable power supplies).
The only gotcha, might be cable length, and there is no way to
check. What matters is whether they have enough max current.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103013

+5 V 28A max. (20 amps is my safe minimum)
+12V1 18A max. <--- main cable, hard drives
+12V2 18A max. <--- CPU cable
-12 V 0.5A max. (not critical)
+5 VSB 2.5A max. (2 amps would be my minimum)
+3.3 V 30A max. (20 amps is my safe minimum)

The maximum output power not to exceed 400 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V shall not exceed 150 W.
12V1 plus 12V2 shall not exceed 348W (29 amps)

That should do the job.

You can certainly go "up-scale" and buy a monster supply, but
some of the housings on the high capacity supplies, are a bit
longer than normal, and won't fit well in a small case. To
balance that, a supply with "modular wiring", helps eliminate
cable clutter, and can clean up the cabling mess.

The modern supplies with "Active PFC", we're not sure how well
they do with older UPS designs. It's nice to do the power
company a favor, by using PFC, but it doesn't help your
electric bill (reactive power isn't billed at home in N.A.).

Amazon has reviews as well. There are two reviews of a
Chiefmax branded supply here for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Chiefmax-450W-Power-Supply-Connector/dp/B00083V39Q

I'm not even sure at this point, it's a power supply issue.
If it was my computer, I would "load shed" first, by simplifying
the configuration to save as much power as possible. Like,
disconnect the hard drive and retest, and see if it'll boot
a Linux or Windows installer CD. It sounds more like a
BIOS issue of some sort, perhaps fixable by using an
IDE burner instead.

Good luck,
Paul
Click to expand...

I have already done the disconnecting other items and tried booting up
and still the same thing. Thanks for the heads up on the Chiefmax
power supplies, I will look for another brand but the one at Newegg
is way out of my price range being a disabled vet and only get
disability pay. I am only limited to $25 for a power supply at the
most and only reason I had been looking at the Chiefmax one's.
 
Might either of below links be of any use!

SATA Speed Selection Jumper;

<http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/faqView.do?b2b_bbs_msg_id=121>

or; http://preview.tinyurl.com/3755ap


MS-7248 BIOS

<http://support.gateway.com/support/...board BIOSVersion: W7248AG2.10H&uid=293346879>

or: http://preview.tinyurl.com/6ff7lvy
Click to expand...

I checked out both of the url's you posted and they really did me no
good as they did not pertain to my gateway computer or dvd burner. My
burner does not have any jumpers on it since it is a 1.5gbs burner.
The listed computers for the bios did not list my gateway 5244E model
and I have already flashed it before and still the same result so that
is why I am thinking it could be the power supply. I am now
considering a Diablotek EL Series PSEL500 500W ATX Power Supply for
the system. I have read some good reviews and it has the sata
connectors and also a pci-e connector as well as I might want to add a
pci-e video card. Thanks for the help and trouble you went to try and
resolve my issue. Hopefully by this weekend I will have another power
supply to see if that is the problem.
 
Picking power supplies isn't a lot of fun. There are a great many
brands that aren't worth buying. Use the reviews on Newegg, to
get some idea of the brands which don't fail, and the ones that do.

Gateway GT5244E Desktop Computer
http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/2900928/2900928nv.shtml

Component list
http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/2900928/2900928cl3.shtml

Power Supplies
6506044R - Delta 300 Watt Power Supply
http://cdnsupport.gateway.com/s/Power/WMEDPS-300PB-1A/LABEL.jpg

6506045R - HIPRO 300-Watt Power Supply (no picture available)

+5 V 20A max.
+12 V 18A max.
-12 V 0.8A max.
+5 VSB 3A max. (3 amps on that small a unit??? Overkill.)
+3.3 V 20A max.

The maximum output power not to exceed 300 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V shall not exceed 120 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V and +12 V shall not exceed 280 W.

6506071R - 300-Watt Power Supply uATX 20 Pin Non-PFC
(No picture or useful specs available)

So there are some numbers to go by, to match the supply. You can use
the label on your current power supply, as a guide like those
numbers.

This is an example of a supply that might swap in. 86% of
reviews are favorable. The unit is 70% efficient (the industry
standard years ago was 68%, so this is a legacy design).
It's unlikely to have power factor correction, so should work
with even dirt cheap UPS (uninterruptable power supplies).
The only gotcha, might be cable length, and there is no way to
check. What matters is whether they have enough max current.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103013

+5 V 28A max. (20 amps is my safe minimum)
+12V1 18A max. <--- main cable, hard drives
+12V2 18A max. <--- CPU cable
-12 V 0.5A max. (not critical)
+5 VSB 2.5A max. (2 amps would be my minimum)
+3.3 V 30A max. (20 amps is my safe minimum)

The maximum output power not to exceed 400 W.
+5 V and +3.3 V shall not exceed 150 W.
12V1 plus 12V2 shall not exceed 348W (29 amps)

That should do the job.

You can certainly go "up-scale" and buy a monster supply, but
some of the housings on the high capacity supplies, are a bit
longer than normal, and won't fit well in a small case. To
balance that, a supply with "modular wiring", helps eliminate
cable clutter, and can clean up the cabling mess.

The modern supplies with "Active PFC", we're not sure how well
they do with older UPS designs. It's nice to do the power
company a favor, by using PFC, but it doesn't help your
electric bill (reactive power isn't billed at home in N.A.).

Amazon has reviews as well. There are two reviews of a
Chiefmax branded supply here for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Chiefmax-450W-Power-Supply-Connector/dp/B00083V39Q

I'm not even sure at this point, it's a power supply issue.
If it was my computer, I would "load shed" first, by simplifying
the configuration to save as much power as possible. Like,
disconnect the hard drive and retest, and see if it'll boot
a Linux or Windows installer CD. It sounds more like a
BIOS issue of some sort, perhaps fixable by using an
IDE burner instead.

Good luck,
Paul
Click to expand...

I think I might get a Diablotek EL Series PSEL500 500W ATX Power
Supply, I have read some reviews on it and they all look promising and
in my price range and hopefully by this weekend I will have another
power supply and it will resolve the problem. I will keep you all
updated. Thanksk for all the help.
 
I have already done the disconnecting other items and tried booting up
and still the same thing. Thanks for the heads up on the Chiefmax
power supplies, I will look for another brand but the one at Newegg
is way out of my price range being a disabled vet and only get
disability pay. I am only limited to $25 for a power supply at the
most and only reason I had been looking at the Chiefmax one's.
Click to expand...

Try booting into windows with the power cable attached to the drive but not
the data cable. Then once fully into windows, attach the data cable, go to
device manager and tell it to detect new hardware. If it shows up and is
useable , then its not a power supply or drive issue, but possibly a firmware
issue either with the drives firmware or the systems firmware.
 
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