Computer stops right at boot

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jbrandonbb

I am building a Penryn 9650 system with the Asus PK5 Deluxe
motherboard. I have a 500 watt PSU, ThermalTake Silent 775D hs/fan,
pretty standard equipment otherwise. What's happening is the computer
boots momentarily, and then the CPU shuts off. After a few seconds,
the CPU fires up again and then shuts down again. Any ideas as to why
this would happen?

- JB
 
[email protected] said:
I am building a Penryn 9650 system with the Asus PK5 Deluxe
motherboard. I have a 500 watt PSU, ThermalTake Silent 775D hs/fan,
pretty standard equipment otherwise. What's happening is the computer
boots momentarily, and then the CPU shuts off. After a few seconds,
the CPU fires up again and then shuts down again. Any ideas as to why
this would happen?

- JB
Click to expand...

Interesting question. How do you know that the CPU fires up again and then
shuts down again? I've never seen a CPU with any kind of built-in activity
indicator, like LED lights or anything. I'm not being sarcastic, I need you
to better define your terms so I know what the heck you are talking about.

Are you guessing by fan activity that the CPU is on and off? Are you
guessing by lights on the mainboard that the CPU is on and off?

Don't say what you think is happening, post exactly what IS happening, so
that we can help you.

Start with the power switch. Push that momentarily to turn system on. Fans
spin? Beep code from mainboard? Any lights on anywhere? Hear hard drive
spinning up? What is displayed on monitor, if anything? Details!!! -Dave
 
[email protected] said:
I am building a Penryn 9650 system with the Asus PK5 Deluxe
motherboard. I have a 500 watt PSU, ThermalTake Silent 775D hs/fan,
pretty standard equipment otherwise. What's happening is the computer
boots momentarily, and then the CPU shuts off. After a few seconds,
the CPU fires up again and then shuts down again. Any ideas as to why
this would happen?

- JB
Click to expand...

First bet would be a faulty power supply.


Ed
 
Interesting question. How do you know that the CPU fires up again and then
shuts down again? I've never seen a CPU with any kind of built-in activity
indicator, like LED lights or anything. I'm not being sarcastic, I need you
to better define your terms so I know what the heck you are talking about.

Are you guessing by fan activity that the CPU is on and off? Are you
guessing by lights on the mainboard that the CPU is on and off?

Don't say what you think is happening, post exactly what IS happening, so
that we can help you.

Start with the power switch. Push that momentarily to turn system on. Fans
spin? Beep code from mainboard? Any lights on anywhere? Hear hard drive
spinning up? What is displayed on monitor, if anything? Details!!! -Dave
Click to expand...

The fans spin up fine, no beep codes, lights on (mainboard and
chassis). The HDD does not spin as far as I can tell. There is nothing
on the video but I have it hooked up correctly. Does the CPU need a
more powerful fan combo? Is it not seated correctly somehow? Do i need
a bigger PSU than 500?
 
Apparently that "Penryn 9650" is a CPU. Make sure the Asus PK5
mainboard supports it. You could try a BIOS update.

He's a Google Groups user.
The fans spin up fine, no beep codes, lights on (mainboard and
chassis).
Click to expand...

How do you know the CPU is on and off?
The HDD does not spin as far as I can tell. There is nothing on
the video but I have it hooked up correctly.
Click to expand...

Once again, that's what you think. What video card? Have you
attached the secondary power connector that comes through a power
supply cable to the video card?
Does the CPU need a more powerful fan combo? Is it not seated
correctly somehow?
Click to expand...

Only you can answer that.
Do i need a bigger PSU than 500?
Click to expand...

Whatever "bigger" means. That figure "500" is almost meaningless.
Just like everything else, there can be a huge difference in quality
between one unit and another, regardless of the alleged wattage
rating.
 
The fans spin up fine, no beep codes, lights on (mainboard and
chassis). The HDD does not spin as far as I can tell. There is nothing
on the video but I have it hooked up correctly. Does the CPU need a
more powerful fan combo? Is it not seated correctly somehow? Do i need
a bigger PSU than 500?
Click to expand...

OK, now we're getting somewhere. Fans are very forgiving. Unless a power
supply is totally dead, fans will spin. Same with lights on mainboard and
chassis, both require almost no power to light up. If you are getting NO
BEEP AT ALL, that is a problem. One of the last parts of POST is to
initialize a video card, so if there is no POST beep, it is obvious that you
will get no video, as that comes much later in the process.

Do you need a bigger PSU than 500, is not the question you should ask. You
should ask if your power supply is compatible with your CPU, video card and
all other hardware. 500 would probably do it, IF the power supply is good
quality. But most power supplies are crap, so even a 700 might not be
enough. ESPECIALLY if all you know about the power supply is the number
that the manufacturer pulled out of it's ASS to try to represent it.

Post the exact make and model number of the power supply. Your symptom (or
lack of symptoms) suggests that CPU is not receiving power_OK, and thus the
POST is not running. Most likely suspects in order are weak power supply
(99.9%), bad motherboard, bad CPU, or CPU incompatible with
ainboard. -Dave
 
OK, now we're getting somewhere. Fans are very forgiving. Unless a power
supply is totally dead, fans will spin. Same with lights on mainboard and
chassis, both require almost no power to light up. If you are getting NO
BEEP AT ALL, that is a problem. One of the last parts of POST is to
initialize a video card, so if there is no POST beep, it is obvious that you
will get no video, as that comes much later in the process.

Do you need a bigger PSU than 500, is not the question you should ask. You
should ask if your power supply is compatible with your CPU, video card and
all other hardware. 500 would probably do it, IF the power supply is good
quality. But most power supplies are crap, so even a 700 might not be
enough. ESPECIALLY if all you know about the power supply is the number
that the manufacturer pulled out of it's ASS to try to represent it.

Post the exact make and model number of the power supply. Your symptom (or
lack of symptoms) suggests that CPU is not receiving power_OK, and thus the
POST is not running. Most likely suspects in order are weak power supply
(99.9%), bad motherboard, bad CPU, or CPU incompatible with
ainboard. -Dave
Click to expand...

I am using a Seasonic SS700HM - an 80-Plus unit that says 500 watts. I
had a 380watt PSU I was trying before. Both of these worked fine with
an AMD 4000+ CPU on another build. By the way, how do you flash the
BIOS -- do you need the video signal and HDDD working for that?
Anyway, thanks for your help. It sounds like I should first try a more
powerful and better CPU.
 
He's a Google Groups user.
Click to expand...

And proud of it. It means I can use any PC, it logs me in
automatically, has good spell check, etc. Is there a requirement here
about which newsreader you use?
How do you know the CPU is on and off?
Click to expand...

How else would you know? The fan turns on, it has power.
Once again, that's what you think. What video card? Have you
attached the secondary power connector that comes through a power
supply cable to the video card?
Click to expand...

It is not a matter of what I think when it comes to the video signal.
There is nothing on the screen. If I had not attached power, there
would be a long piercing tone.
Only you can answer that.
Click to expand...

Not really -- it can be answered if you know the specs for the
mainboard I mentioned and its requirements for power, which must be
available somewhere but I have not been able to find it yet.
Whatever "bigger" means. That figure "500" is almost meaningless.
Just like everything else, there can be a huge difference in quality
between one unit and another, regardless of the alleged wattage
rating.
Click to expand...

Most people know that bigger means more powerful -- higher wattage.
Most people know that the 500 is a wattage rating, it is far from
almost meaningless. I can't think of a single thing in your post that
was helpful in any way.
 
I am using a Seasonic SS700HM - an 80-Plus unit that says 500 watts. I
had a 380watt PSU I was trying before. Both of these worked fine with
an AMD 4000+ CPU on another build. By the way, how do you flash the
BIOS -- do you need the video signal and HDDD working for that?
Anyway, thanks for your help. It sounds like I should first try a more
powerful and better CPU.
Click to expand...

powerful and better PSU, I meant.
 
I am using a Seasonic SS700HM - an 80-Plus unit that says 500 watts. I
had a 380watt PSU I was trying before. Both of these worked fine with
an AMD 4000+ CPU on another build. By the way, how do you flash the
BIOS -- do you need the video signal and HDDD working for that?
Anyway, thanks for your help. It sounds like I should first try a more
powerful and better CPU.
Click to expand...

OK, we can assume that the power supply is probably OK. To flash the BIOS,
you don't need a hard drive, but you do need video. The question is moot
anyway. If you could get the system running well enough to flash the BIOS,
you probably would not need to flash the BIOS. Triple-check that your CPU
is compatible with your mainboard. -Dave
 
I have tried two, one was 380 and this one is 500. Do I need higher?
Click to expand...

If you check here, what BIOS release is needed to run QX9650 ?

http://support.asus.com/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

The "P5K Deluxe/WiFi-AP" lists:

Core 2 Extreme QX9650 (3.00GHz,1333FSB,L2:2X6MB,rev.C0,4 cores) ALL 0603

In the past, Asus boards used a socketed PLCC (square) BIOS chip. There
would have been a sticker on there, with the BIOS release number
printed on it. Asus has switched to SPI BIOS chips, which are serial
interface, only 8 pin chips, quite small and soldered to the motherboard.
Those are unlikely to have a BIOS release number printed on them. I
don't see a PLCC here.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/images/mainboards/asus-p5k-deluxe/board.jpg

You may have to borrow a Celeron or some other piece of cheap
crap for LGA775, get into the BIOS and do whatever needs to be
done that way. Then install the QX9650, once 0603 or whatever
is required, has been installed.

Also, when I check the "P5K Deluxe without Wifi" on the CPUSupport,
QX9650 isn't even listed (which could be an oversight).

http://processorfinder.intel.com/details.aspx?sSpec=SLAN3

Paul
 
You may have to borrow a Celeron or some other piece of cheap
crap for LGA775, get into the BIOS and do whatever needs to be
done that way. Then install the QX9650, once 0603 or whatever
is required, has been installed.
Click to expand...


Is it okay to replace the CPU after I have installed the fan combo and
used the grease? I have another Intel chip I could use. I wish there
was another way to flash the BIOS besides using a floppy...
 
Is it okay to replace the CPU after I have installed the fan combo and
used the grease? I have another Intel chip I could use. I wish there
was another way to flash the BIOS besides using a floppy...
Click to expand...

Check the manual. Some of the latest boards:

1) Have a nice flashing program built into the BIOS.
2) Accept a USB flash device for files. The USB flash may
need some flavor of FAT file system (the BIOS likely
would not handle NTFS). Note that some BIOS are so big now,
that a floppy is no longer a viable option.

As part of your flash procedure, try to archive the existing
BIOS file first. The BIOS program may offer an option to write
it to your storage device. If the flash process seems to be
going to hell on you, then you can try and put the original BIOS
back before doing a reboot.

Note that on some motherboards, the BIOS release stream changes
to a new tool flow, part way through. Thus, some people discover
they can no longer "flash backwards". I don't know of a
guaranteed recipe to always fix that (other than replace
chip with a PLCC from badflash.com , for boards with a
PLCC flash chip).

The boards with SPI BIOS, have the 8 pin chip soldered to the board.
If you brick the board while flashing, badflash.com cannot
help you. The SPI sometimes has a pin header next to the chip,
but a quick check showed an appropriate USB programmer for the
header, is priced at $150.00. They aren't cheap enough yet, to
recommend a programmer for everyone. I'm hoping that if this
SPI thing is going to take off, that some motherboard actual
bundle a USB programmer with the motherboard, so that there
are more programmers for it in existence.

You should use fresh paste if changing the heatsink. It doesn't
need much, and I'm still using my original tube of paste. The
coating is meant to displace air, not to build an "Oreo cookie" :-)
When finished installation, the edge of the joint should show a
little bit of paste, as proof that the joint isn't "dry". It is
OK to have a little bit ooze out, but you don't want a gusher,
because then the film might be thicker than necessary, and
impede heat flow more than necessary. You want the thinnest
layer that excludes the air, as air is a relative insulator.

Paul
 
jbrandonbb said:
[Using Google Groups] means I can use any PC, it logs me in
automatically, has good spell check, etc.
Click to expand...

I use speech for dictation and much of command/control. Don't make
no spelling errors no more.
Is there a requirement here about which newsreader you use?
Click to expand...

Google Groups is the spam portal to USENET, and it's used by most
trolls and especially by nym shifting trolls. Besides all of the
spam and trolling, the fact that it's so easy for you and others to
post through Google Groups unfortunately means those with little or
no technical skill are attracted to USENET groups. Some users used
to complain about that, those users should be pulling their hair out
by now thanks to Google Groups.

Of course nobody knows everything and USENET is the place to ask,
but you benefit by asking skillfully and at least honestly.
How else would you know?
Click to expand...

My mainboard has diagnostic LEDs.
The fan turns on,
Click to expand...

That's no way to tell.
it has power.
Click to expand...

How can you tell the CPU has power? By the way, besides the video
card, sometimes the CPU requires a cable connection from the power
supply.

Answer those questions.
Not really --
Click to expand...

Only you can answer whether the heatsink is seated properly.
Most people know that bigger means more powerful -- higher
wattage.
Click to expand...

Wattage ratings alone are nearly meaningless.
I can't think of a single thing in your post that was helpful in
any way.
Click to expand...

Then you won't be flashing the BIOS? Maybe you shouldn't anyway. You
need on the spot technical help IMO. You get what you pay for.

Good luck.
 
Is it okay to replace the CPU after I have installed the fan combo and
used the grease? I have another Intel chip I could use. I wish there
was another way to flash the BIOS besides using a floppy...
Click to expand...

Why are you fixing things when you have no reason to believe a
defect exists there? Worse, is loading (flashing) a new BIOS when
hardware is unstable? An easy way to permanently destroy the
motherboard.

You are fixing things rather than first learning what is wrong. For
example, if a power supply spins it fans, then power exists. But is
power sufficient? Unknown. Fans can spin and power supply is still
defective.

Then you are trying to fix the power supply as if that was the
entire power supply system. It is not. IOW stop trying to fix
things. That comes later. First learn what is defective.

Central to your symptoms is the power supply controller. That means
you learn every input and output going to that function. And that
means those numbers posted here result in definitive replies from
those with better knowledge. Currently every post is wild speculation
- 'it could be this or could be that or... ' wasted time.

What is the power supply system doing? A two minute procedure
defines that in numbers in "When your computer dies without
warning....." starting 6 Feb 2007 in the newsgroup alt.windows-xp
at:
http://tinyurl.com/yvf9vh
Connector chart for where each color wire should be located:
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/power/atxpower.html

In your case, most important are numbers as and in seconds after the
power switch is pressed on any one of green, gray, red, orange, and
yellow wires.

Also not described in that procedure but relevant to your problem
are voltages between pins that the power switch connects to; both
before and when power switch is pressed. Any answer that says it is
OK is wasted time. Critically important are numeric values. Your
replies will only be as useful as information you post.

Even swapping power supply accomplished nothing. For example, after
replacing power supply, list the components you know are good or bad.
Why is that list still empty? Because after all that work, nothing
was accomplished. But then that is also a problem created by those
who say, "it might be this or might be that or might be ... ". Wild
speculation accomplishes nothing. Above two minute procedure is how
to start knowing what is - also called accomplishment.

Never flash a BIOS when hardware is unknown or unstable. BIOS code
has no relationship to your problem. Reflashing the BIOS is
recommended by those who use wild speculation - who do not know how
hardware works; therefore recommend replacing anything using wild
speculation. Flash the BIOS if willing to risk or permanently damage
the motherboard.

Get and post those numbers using a two minute procedure. Stop the
wild speculation.
 
Is it okay to replace the CPU after I have installed the fan combo and
used the grease? I have another Intel chip I could use. I wish there
was another way to flash the BIOS besides using a floppy...
Click to expand...

Why are you fixing things when you have no reason to believe a
defect exists there? Worse, is loading (flashing) a new BIOS when
hardware is unstable? An easy way to permanently destroy the
motherboard.

You are fixing things rather than first learning what is wrong. For
example, if a power supply spins it fans, then power exists. But is
power sufficient? Unknown. Fans can spin and power supply is still
defective.

Then you are trying to fix the power supply as if that was the
entire power supply system. It is not. IOW stop trying to fix
things. That comes later. First learn what is defective.

Central to your symptoms is the power supply controller. That means
you learn every input and output going to that function. And that
means those numbers posted here result in definitive replies from
those with better knowledge. Currently every post is wild speculation
- 'it could be this or could be that or... ' wasted time.

What is the power supply system doing? A two minute procedure
defines that in numbers in "When your computer dies without
warning....." starting 6 Feb 2007 in the newsgroup alt.windows-xp
at:
http://tinyurl.com/yvf9vh
Connector chart for where each color wire should be located:
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/power/atxpower.html

In your case, most important are numbers as and in seconds after the
power switch is pressed on any one of green, gray, red, orange, and
yellow wires.

Also not described in that procedure but relevant to your problem
are voltages between pins that the power switch connects to; both
before and when power switch is pressed. Any answer that says it is
OK is wasted time. Critically important are numeric values. Your
replies will only be as useful as information you post.

Even swapping power supply accomplished nothing. For example, after
replacing power supply, list the components you know are good or bad.
Why is that list still empty? Because after all that work, nothing
was accomplished. But then that is also a problem created by those
who say, "it might be this or might be that or might be ... ". Wild
speculation accomplishes nothing. Above two minute procedure is how
to start knowing what is - also called accomplishment.

Never flash a BIOS when hardware is unknown or unstable. BIOS code
has no relationship to your problem. Reflashing the BIOS is
recommended by those who use wild speculation - who do not know how
hardware works; therefore recommend replacing anything using wild
speculation. Flash the BIOS if willing to risk or permanently damage
the motherboard.

Get and post those numbers using a two minute procedure. Stop the
wild speculation.
 
Whatever "bigger" means. That figure "500" is almost meaningless.
Most people know that bigger means more powerful -- higher wattage.
Most people know that the 500 is a wattage rating, it is far from
almost meaningless. I can't think of a single thing in your post that
was helpful in any way.
Click to expand...

It is a very helpful post. All power supplies are NOT equal. I can show you
"500w" PSUs that would not start an E-Machine (commonly use 200w PSUs).
There are so many bogus companies out there rating a 300w power supply at
500w because it's startup power is somewhere in that region. Are you SURE
that both of your PSUs are good and putting out the correct voltages? Do you
even know what brand they are? I have been building systems for many years
and with your problem my first act would be to try a KNOWN good power
supply. If you don't have a known good one around, then you need a
multimeter and do a google for troubleshooting power supplies and you will
find a number of places to help you out. John Doe is actually very correct
in saying that 500w is just a number without knowing what the quality of
your PSU is.


Ed
 
It is a very helpful post. All power supplies are NOT equal. I can show you
"500w" PSUs that would not start an E-Machine (commonly use 200w PSUs).
There are so many bogus companies out there rating a 300w power supply at
500w because it's startup power is somewhere in that region. Are you SURE
that both of your PSUs are good and putting out the correct voltages? Do you
even know what brand they are? I have been building systems for many years
and with your problem my first act would be to try a KNOWN good power
supply. If you don't have a known good one around, then you need a
multimeter and do a google for troubleshooting power supplies and you will
find a number of places to help you out. John Doe is actually very correct
in saying that 500w is just a number without knowing what the quality of
your PSU is.

Ed
Click to expand...

As I posted before, both PSUs work fine in other systems.
 
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