checklist for clean reinstall of Windows 7?

  • Thread starter Thread starter RayLopez99
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RayLopez99

I am going to re-install Windows 7 from scratch on my i5 machine.

is there a checklist?

I've done this years ago enough times to kind of know what to do without thinking about what to do, but it's nice to have a checklist.

One thing I'd like to do is maybe somehow copy my current ROM settings somehow (it's a modern machine, so there should be a way to do it), as the last time I recall I had a bit of a problem with the SATA drives--don't recall what it was.

RL
 
RayLopez99 said:
I am going to re-install Windows 7 from scratch on my i5 machine.

is there a checklist?

I've done this years ago enough times to kind of know what to do without thinking about what to do, but it's nice to have a checklist.

One thing I'd like to do is maybe somehow copy my current ROM settings somehow (it's a modern machine, so there should be a way to do it), as the last time I recall I had a bit of a problem with the SATA drives--don't recall what it was.

RL

With Windows 7, you can change the disk operating mode, after the
fact. You would need to "re-arm" driver detection, by setting
some flags in the Registry. If you install with IDE mode, then
decide you really wanted AHCI (msahci driver) to take control,
you re-arm the OS, enter the BIOS, change modes, and boot.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/61869-ahci-enable-windows-7-vista.html

Windows 7, could have had a boot sequence, where it figured out
the correct driver on every boot. But, that would have added
extra seconds of execution time to the boot sequence. Instead,
Microsoft came up with their re-arming method, as a means to
switch drivers, which means the OS is asked to examine drivers
on a one-shot basis. Once the correct driver is detected, the
OS stops looking for the correct driver on subsequent boots.

Since you were already running Windows 7, you were happy with
software compatibility, so no work needs to be done there.

The install procedure is here.

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1649-clean-install-windows-7-a.html

A two partition install (C: plus SYSTEM RESERVED 100MB) is compatible
with Bitlocker full partition encryption. A single partition install,
places the boot files and everything else, on C:. Create a partition
before installing, if you want the installer to install everything
in the one partition. A single partition install is preferred, if
you want to maximize the available partitions for other things
(like, multibooting).

Paul
 
I am going to re-install Windows 7 from scratch on my i5 machine.
is there a checklist?

Backup your data in C:\users\!

--
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/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (Fedora 18 i686) Linux 3.8.4-202.fc18.i686
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Backup your data in C:\users\!

.... maybe including hidden folders!

--
@~@ Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (Fedora 18 i686) Linux 3.8.4-202.fc18.i686
^ ^ 21:51:01 up 4:30 0 users load average: 0.00 0.01 0.05
ä¸å€Ÿè²¸! ä¸è©é¨™! ä¸æ´äº¤! ä¸æ‰“交! ä¸æ‰“劫! ä¸è‡ªæ®º! è«‹è€ƒæ…®ç¶œæ´ (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa
 
... maybe including hidden folders!

Also use the official win7 with sp1 from ms:
from http://www.w7forums.com/official-windows-7-sp1-iso-image-downloads-t12325.html
---------------------------------------------------------------
Windows 7 SP1 ISO Download Links (English)

Windows 7 Home Premium x86 SP1 û X17-24208.iso (bootable)
Windows 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 û X17-24209.iso (bootable)
Windows 7 Professional x86 SP1 û X17-24280.iso (bootable)
Windows 7 Professional x64 SP1 û X17-24281.iso (bootable)
Windows 7 Ultimate x86 SP1 û X17-24394.iso (bootable)
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1 û X17-24395.iso (bootable)
---------------------------------------------------------------
Your "genuine activation key" should work if the updated win7/sp1
is needed/wanted; just burn it; read that it was possible to change
from 32-bit to 64-bit with the same key but not different versions.

The non-english versions are also available.
 
With Windows 7, you can change the disk operating mode, after the

fact. You would need to "re-arm" driver detection, by setting

some flags in the Registry. If you install with IDE mode, then

decide you really wanted AHCI (msahci driver) to take control,

you re-arm the OS, enter the BIOS, change modes, and boot.

Good to know but I'm doing a clean re install. Therefore, let me ask a simpler question. For mechanical HDD, apparently there is no big difference between AHCI and IDE mode, but the former is maybe slightly better and supports hot swapping. But this PC is not a server, so I will not enable hot swapping in the BIOS. But here is my main question: I do not want to do ACHIenable after Windows install, but, since this is a clean install, only before I install windows. So, I set up the BIOS so SATA mode (I have a 2011 Asus board) is "ACHI MODE", and the specific SATA ports (I have six) as "hotplug = disabled", and then slip the DVD with Windows 7 into the DVD reader, is that it? BTW I just noticed that the DVD reader itself is SATA, interesting.

Anyway, that's my main question: how do i enable ACHI before I install Windows 7 from a DVD onto a DBAN clean mechanical HDD?

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/61869-ahci-enable-windows-7-vista.html



Windows 7, could have had a boot sequence, where it figured out

the correct driver on every boot. But, that would have added

extra seconds of execution time to the boot sequence. Instead,

Microsoft came up with their re-arming method, as a means to

switch drivers, which means the OS is asked to examine drivers

on a one-shot basis. Once the correct driver is detected, the

OS stops looking for the correct driver on subsequent boots.



Since you were already running Windows 7, you were happy with

software compatibility, so no work needs to be done there.



The install procedure is here.



http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/1649-clean-install-windows-7-a.html



A two partition install (C: plus SYSTEM RESERVED 100MB) is compatible

with Bitlocker full partition encryption. A single partition install,

places the boot files and everything else, on C:. Create a partition

before installing, if you want the installer to install everything

in the one partition. A single partition install is preferred, if

you want to maximize the available partitions for other things

(like, multibooting).


Thanks. I went through the thread on "SYSTEM RESERVED 100MB" (of about 100MB, hidden) and it was not crystal clear whether deleting this 100 MB "Reserve Partition" during installation will disable the "System Restore" Registry feature of W7. I know that deleting (or rather, not creating) this 100MB "System Reserved Partition" will not enable you to turn on BitLocker encryption, but if I don't use that Bitlocker feature (which in my legal version of W7 Professional is not supported anyway), is it OK to not create it,and, if I don't create it on initial install, will I still have the more useful "System Restore" (i.e., to "Last Good Bootup" or whatever that says)?I like the Registry System Restore, and would hate to lose it if I don't create a 100MB "System Reserved Partition" during W7 install.

RL
 
Backup your data in C:\users\!

Thanks! I don't keep any unique data on this machine I am doing a clean reinstall. I use it for programming and all my user data is from yet another machine that's the depository. So wiping it clean with DBAN will not be a problem even with no backup.

RL
 

How do you know this ISO is official? Seems like it's from a Win7 user's forum. Could be malware? Unlikely but I could not get much info on this Digital River company, though it does have a slick webpage so it's probably legit, lol.


Your "genuine activation key" should work if the updated win7/sp1

is needed/wanted; just burn it; read that it was possible to change

from 32-bit to 64-bit with the same key but not different versions.

What is the advantage of using the .ISO from Digital River for Win7? The only thing I can think of: since it has SP1 already included, you won't have to download SP1 and waste several hours installing it. is that it?

Thanks in advance,

RL
 
RayLopez99 wrote:

Good to know but I'm doing a clean re install. Therefore,
let me ask a simpler question. For mechanical HDD, apparently
there is no big difference between AHCI and IDE mode, but the
former is maybe slightly better and supports hot swapping. But
this PC is not a server, so I will not enable hot swapping in the
BIOS. But here is my main question: I do not want to do ACHI
enable after Windows install, but, since this is a clean install,
only before I install windows. So, I set up the BIOS so SATA mode
(I have a 2011 Asus board) is "ACHI MODE", and the specific SATA
ports (I have six) as "hot plug = disabled", and then slip the DVD
with Windows 7 into the DVD reader, is that it? BTW I just noticed
that the DVD reader itself is SATA, interesting.

Anyway, that's my main question: how do i enable ACHI before I
install Windows 7 from a DVD onto a DBAN clean mechanical HDD?

Just set up the motherboard, any way you see fit, and install.
The OS has enough drivers, to take care of it. The OS has IDE, AHCI,
and a limited set of RAID drivers. For most people, that's plenty.
Thanks. I went through the thread on "SYSTEM RESERVED 100MB"
(of about 100 MB, hidden) and it was not crystal clear whether deleting
this 100 MB "Reserve Partition" during installation will disable the
"System Restore" Registry feature of W7. I know that deleting (or
rather, not creating) this 100 MB "System Reserved Partition" will not
enable you to turn on BitLocker encryption, but if I don't use that
Bitlocker feature (which in my legal version of W7 Professional is not
supported anyway), is it OK to not create it, and, if I don't create it
on initial install, will I still have the more useful "System Restore"
(i.e., to "Last Good Bootup" or whatever that says)? I like the Registry
System Restore, and would hate to lose it if I don't create a 100MB
"System Reserved Partition" during W7 install.

RL

As far as I know, all this split of files does, is separately
package the boot files. That's what SYSTEM RESERVED holds. Files
that help the OS start the boot process. SYSTEM RESERVED is not
given a drive letter. Microsoft doesn't particularly want it visible
in daily use. In fact, they would prefer that system restore snapshots
not be triggered on that partition, because it burns up the spare space on
that tiny partition. On later OSes, they made the partition a bit
bigger (presumably to reduce the tech support calls, caused by
running out of space).

System restore or other OS features, continue to work properly on
C:, whether you do a one or two partition install. System Restore
snapshots the registry. And stores it on C:.

There are some automatic boot repair functions, and as far as I know,
they still work whether you install on one or two partitions. But I
haven't tested that here. I also can't tell you, whether the automatic
repair will create a SYSTEM RESERVED and fill it up, all on its own.
(Like, stupidly change your one-partition install, into a two-partition
install, under fault conditions.) I hope it doesn't do that, but you
never know.

If you need the primary partitions, then you do a one partition install.
If you don't need the primary partitions, and can do extended/logical ones
for the rest of your needs, then you can do the two-partition install.

Paul
 
One thing I'd like to do is maybe somehow copy my current ROM
settings somehow (it's a modern machine, so there should be a way to
do it), as the last time I recall I had a bit of a problem with the
SATA drives--don't recall what it was.

No need to save your BIOS settings, the OS won't change them anyways.
However, the problem you're referring to is the AHCI vs. IDE-compatible
mode problem. This problem occurs only when you want to switch away from
compatible mode to AHCI mode on an "existing installation of Windows",
you have to setup your registry to accept the changes before rebooting.
This won't be a problem if you're reinstalling from scratch anyways,
because the Windows installer will detect that you're already in AHCI
mode, and set the registry accordingly.

Yousuf Khan
 
No need to save your BIOS settings, the OS won't change them anyways.

However, the problem you're referring to is the AHCI vs. IDE-compatible

mode problem. This problem occurs only when you want to switch away from

compatible mode to AHCI mode on an "existing installation of Windows",

you have to setup your registry to accept the changes before rebooting.

This won't be a problem if you're reinstalling from scratch anyways,

because the Windows installer will detect that you're already in AHCI

mode, and set the registry accordingly.



Yousuf Khan

Thanks YK. I decided not to do a clean reinstall afterall. The only reason I wanted to do a clean reinstall was to get the Windows 7 SP1 updates (since I'm running a $1 Thai 'copy' of W7 at the moment). But since I've not had problems with viruses I think I'll pass with the clean reinstall. Firewall, free anti-virus and Safe Hex should be sufficient to keep my system clean without the Win7 updates.

But I do want to speed up my mechanical hard drive and my system, which bogs down to a stop at times. Short of buying a SSD, I did two things to speed up my Intel Core i5 machine (it's already maxed out on memory): first, Iwill install a graphics card I bought for around $100 instead of relying on the 'on-chip' graphics controller (which is pathetic). Then, I found outa neat trick for speeding up the HDD that I bet some of you did not know:

1. Launch Device Manager
2. Expand Disk Drives
3. Click on the drive you wish to speed up
4. Under the "Policy" tab, click both checkboxes, for 'enable write caching' and 'Turn off Windows Write Cache buffer...'

Apparently, if you have UPS power like I do, you don't need to have these two checkboxes un-checked, as it will slow down your drives.

What happens to me--due to a lack of a graphics card I think, and the abovecheckboxes which were unchecked--the Core i5 will 'stall' for 15 seconds at a time, completely freezing, especially when copying or deleting a very large (> 5 GB) folder. Yet Task Manager only shows about 20% of the four cores being used. I think it's related to the above two problems.

Having said that, do you think switching to AHCI mode will speed up my SATAHDDs?

RL
 
Having said that, do you think switching to AHCI mode will speed up my SATA HDDs?

Well I just did this, switching from IDE to AHCI, and noticed no big change in speed. So it must be the graphics card (or lack thereof).

RL
 
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