Blowing dust out of computer

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Davek

Is there something other than canned air to use to blow dust
from a computer? I was even thinking of using a small
vacuum cleaner that can be reversed to "blow" air. I keep
thinking there must be something out there.

TIA
- Dave Kistner
 
The canned air is the best. One must be careful with
using a regular vaccum cleaner which has a tendency
to generate alot of static electricity which in turn can
damage your computer chip components.

Good luck.
Gene
 
Davek said:
Is there something other than canned air to use to blow dust
from a computer? I was even thinking of using a small
vacuum cleaner that can be reversed to "blow" air. I keep
thinking there must be something out there.


It's Summer Time and the weather is humid - great time to
open the case and blow the dust out because static
electricity can't build up. I use a cheap oscillating air
pump (the kind to blow up basketballs or to spray paint
with) to blow the dust off the components and out of
the crevices, and I use a vacuum cleaner to suck up the
dust that would otherwise blow all over the room. I use
the narrow plastic wand on the end of the vacuum cleaner
hose to suck dust out of exterior crevices and to avoid
touching any components with metal. I do this once a
year, and so far, it always results in a cleaner (and cooler)
PC with no problems.


*TimDaniels*
 
I hate PAYing for air.......so I made a refillable air can....tire
valve,packet of silica,and drill. MUCHO precaution as you can blow the damn
can up, this is for people with common sense [please
 
Canned air is too expensive but it is the best. No humidity/moisture in the
electronics canned air, no static.

But I refurbish a lot of old PCs. So I went with a shop vacuum that can
reverse blow. I vacuum first to reduce the big dust balls, then reverse
blow the case OUTSIDE to remove the dust. I use an adapter that changes the
1/4 inch hose to 1/4 inch hole so it blows out real fast and strong. Cases,
power supplies, car interior where you can't reach, dust on indoor plant
leaves, etc. You can reduce the strength by increasing the distance from
the object to be "dusted".

I wrote an old google post on this vacuum a couple of years ago, lets see if
I can google search for it ...

Yes, I found it, here it is. I hope the links still work, otherwise search
the sites.

I have opened many PCs and those in offices and banks and large companies
are the worse for huge amounts of dust. And hospitals. You would think a
hospital with its constant cleaning and floor washing and dust moping would
be dust free but the dustballs inside are incredible. I guess the problem
is they sit there for 3-4-5 years running and no one ever opens them up.

Since I have to repair and refurbish PCs a lot, compressed air cans is too
expensive. I finally found a small shop vac type model that plugs into the
110v AC, is relatively portable, and can reverse the air flow. It does not
really reverse the air flow, you just remove the hose from the intake hole
to the outtake hole and it blows out.

So what I do is take the PC outside with the covers off (I have easy access
to the outside), vacuum (suck up) all the loose dust I can, then put an
adapter that restricts the hole to 1/4 inch or so (a nozzle), reverse the
air flow, and then blow out the PC everywhere. Every nook and cranny, all
the fans (CPU, case, power supply), open the floppy drive door. You should
see the dust that flies, it is so bad I have to go outside. I then spray
the dust away on the ground like a leaf blower. I have done hundreds of PCs
and other electronic equipment with this and have no problems blowing with
this method. The pressure of the compressed air is not that great but the
nozzle does concentrate it enough to give it power. It is not strong enough
to strip off jumpers or leads, nothing like that. I also use a 2 inch paint
brush to loosen really stuck on dust. As always, do it gently and carefully
to avoid any problems.

This vacuum is superb. Price is good too. It is the Stinger Shop Vac 2
gallon version, approx $30 US. I bought it from Home Depot, paid $49 Can in
Vancouver. But you have to get the attachment kit for $10 US or $15 Can.
This has the nozzle which concentrates the air pressure spray. Absolutely
superb. When blowing it has a filter so no noticeable amount of dirt
escapes into the exhaust air which is used for blowing as I was afraid this
would happen. I blow crap out of keyboards to. Superb. Just be careful as
you will be surprised how much dust it will blow out. And trust me, do it
outside.

Here is a reference to the Stinger at home depot

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=NAVIG
ATION&CNTKEY=market%2fpg_zip_code.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@2019091126.1028609134
@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccehadcflhidfdmcgelceffdfgidgnk.0&catOID=100015200&DRC=4

Here is the accessories kit

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=NAVIG
ATION&CNTKEY=market%2fpg_zip_code.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@2019091126.1028609134
@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccehadcflhidfdmcgelceffdfgidgnk.0&catOID=100015200&DRC=4

Here is a review

http://www.homerepairworkshop.com/scripts/hrw.mv?ACTN=DSPLY&ART=111

Oh and it is useful in the house too. Got a vase of dried flowers or
similar items? Take them outside and blow the dust off with this vac. You
might want to try without the nozzle as it may damage the flowers. I have a
CD tower to hold 200 music CDs, a pain to dust, have to pull out the CDs one
by one and dust. Not with this. I leave them in place and just shoot air
in and around the CD case in the tower and it does a pretty good job in 3
minutes. My kids had a birthday party and I had to blow up balloons,
tiring, not with this. Finished in 5 minutes about 50 balloons. Air
mattress, real quick.

Damn, I sound like an infomercial ... :)

Note this is a useful tool for people who open PCs up a lot. For the
typical person with one PC, a can of air is probably cheaper. But you might
justify it for other uses around the house. If you can stand the sound, you
could point it at your CPU and cool it while overclocking.
 
Only reference to 'Stinger' I can find on the US site is a mop and bug
zappers. But, I like that idea. Canned air is way too expensive. I'll
have to have a look at the local store, next time I'm there.

-
rcm stood up at show-n-tell, in
%o%[email protected], and said:

Since I have to repair and refurbish PCs a lot, compressed air cans
is too expensive. I finally found a small shop vac type model that
plugs into the 110v AC, is relatively portable, and can reverse the
air flow. It does not really reverse the air flow, you just remove
the hose from the intake hole to the outtake hole and it blows out.

So what I do is take the PC outside with the covers off (I have easy
access to the outside), vacuum (suck up) all the loose dust I can,
then put an adapter that restricts the hole to 1/4 inch or so (a
nozzle), reverse the air flow, and then blow out the PC everywhere.
Every nook and cranny, all the fans (CPU, case, power supply), open
the floppy drive door. You should see the dust that flies, it is so
bad I have to go outside. I then spray the dust away on the ground
like a leaf blower. I have done hundreds of PCs and other electronic
equipment with this and have no problems blowing with this method.
The pressure of the compressed air is not that great but the nozzle
does concentrate it enough to give it power. It is not strong enough
to strip off jumpers or leads, nothing like that. I also use a 2
inch paint brush to loosen really stuck on dust. As always, do it
gently and carefully to avoid any problems.

This vacuum is superb. Price is good too. It is the Stinger Shop
Vac 2 gallon version, approx $30 US. I bought it from Home Depot,
paid $49 Can in Vancouver. But you have to get the attachment kit
for $10 US or $15 Can. This has the nozzle which concentrates the air
pressure spray. Absolutely superb. When blowing it has a filter so
no noticeable amount of dirt escapes into the exhaust air which is
used for blowing as I was afraid this would happen. I blow crap out
of keyboards to. Superb. Just be careful as you will be surprised
how much dust it will blow out. And trust me, do it outside.

Here is a reference to the Stinger at home depot

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=NAVIG
ATION&CNTKEY=market%2fpg_zip_code.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@2019091126.1028609134
@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccehadcflhidfdmcgelceffdfgidgnk.0&catOID=100015200&DRC=4

Here is the accessories kit

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=NAVIG
ATION&CNTKEY=market%2fpg_zip_code.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@2019091126.1028609134
@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccehadcflhidfdmcgelceffdfgidgnk.0&catOID=100015200&DRC=4

Here is a review

http://www.homerepairworkshop.com/scripts/hrw.mv?ACTN=DSPLY&ART=111
<snip>
 
Ahhhh, got it. I went to the wet/dry vacuum section, before, and none of
the smaller units were showing. Thanks.

rcm stood up at show-n-tell, in
[email protected], and said:
 
Davek said:
Is there something other than canned air to use to blow dust from a
computer? I was even thinking of using a small vacuum cleaner that can
be reversed to "blow" air. I keep thinking there must be something out
there.

TIA
- Dave Kistner

I often use a small paintbrush to brush the dust out of heavy
accumulation areas, followed by a few bursts from the canned air.

Ari

--

Are you registered as a bone marrow donor? You regenerate what you
donate. You are offered the chance to donate only if you match a person
on the recipient list. Call your local Red Cross and ask about
registering to be a bone marrow donor.

spam trap: replace shyah_right! with hotmail when replying
 
Timothy Daniels said:
Which capacitors would hold enough charge to do
you harm? The only capacitors I can think of would
be in the power supply and proper design would put
a bleed resistor across them to allow a "slow" (taking
a few seconds) discharge when the power is turned off.
But even at full charge, they'd have no more than what -
5 or 12 volts? To reinforce that notion, I have never
anywhere in PC literature read that one should discharge
the capacitors overnight before opening the case. Would
you clarify the reasons for taking such a long time for
capacitors to discharge?

I usually only wait a few minutes...just going by the hazardous voltages
warning on the PSU sticker...maybe it's just bullshit.
 
rAD said:
I usually only wait a few minutes...just going by the hazardous voltages
warning on the PSU sticker...maybe it's just bullshit.

D.C. voltages are very ... I repeat VERY ... dangerous. It only takes
approx. 1V at a very low amperage (approx. 100mA) for an instant to stop
your heart. (that is, of course, if the current travels across your heart
.... which would require that you touch the leads with both hands)

Those warning stickers are there for a reason ... grabbing a hold of one of
the larger power caps can certainly do some considerable damage if it's not
discharged. Even if the current doesn't travel across your heart (which,
like I said, can stop your heart) you can sustain some pretty nasty burns.

By the way, A.C. and D.C. differ greatly here. You can grab a 220V A.C. line
and be ok (well ... depends on what you consider "ok" ... alive anyway) But
it only takes a very small amount of D.C. current to kill you.

When working with any device that contains high levels of D.C. current it is
ALWAYS best to err of the side of caution.

However, like the previous poster said, overnight may be a bit overkill. In
most cases a bleed resistor will discharge the caps in a few minutes. But it
never hurts to be cautious.


Drumguy
 
"drumguy1384" cautioned:
D.C. voltages are very ... I repeat VERY ... dangerous.
It only takes approx. 1V at a very low amperage (approx.
100mA) for an instant to stop your heart. (that is, of course,
if the current travels across your heart.... which would
require that you touch the leads with both hands)


That may be true of an exposed heart - as in open heart
surgery. But truthfully, do you wear insulated gloves
when you handle flashlight batteries?


*TimDaniels*
 
Timothy Daniels said:
"drumguy1384" cautioned:


That may be true of an exposed heart - as in open heart
surgery. But truthfully, do you wear insulated gloves
when you handle flashlight batteries?


*TimDaniels*

Obviously I do not ... but a flashlight battery is far different from a
power cap. When the leads of a capacitor are bridged it will discharge it's
stored charge as quickly as possible.

Batteries are self-regulating, in that they only output enough power to run
whatever load they are connected to. A capacitor is not concerned with such
things ...

I stand by my claim that a power cap can cause some serious damage if it's
not discharged. Though, I admit that I'm not too certain on the voltage
level ... it only takes enough voltage to compromise the resistance of the
skin, which isn't too terribly much, and depends on the amount of sweat and
oil present, and the relative humidity of the ambient air. If you don't
believe me, grab a hold of a 12V power cap that's fully charged and tell me
how you like it.


Drumguy
 
absolutely.....theres enough to kill you lurking in there just waiting for
the right situation..
 
drumguy1384 said:
I was just illustrating the fact that A.C. currents are far
less dangerous than D.C. per volt.

Of course if you actually did grab a 220VAC line you
would almost certainly take a trip to the emergency room,
but it's far less dangerous than grabbing 12VDC (say, a
car battery for instance)

The reasoning goes like this ... since A.C. is constantly
changing state it is only at that 220 rated volts for a very
small amount of the time, in fact, most of the time it is far
below that. With D.C. you are hit with a constant one-way
voltage, which is far more dangerous to your heart (which
operates on electrical pulses ... not constant voltages) than
an oscillating signal.

Both are dangerous, don't get me wrong ... but 12VAC is
incredibly less dangerous than 12VDC.

Maybe my 220VAC analogy was a little over the top,
but from my own experience 220VAC is less dangerous
than 110VAC. While 220VAC has enough "kick" to throw
you off of the line 110VAC will just "hold on to you"
causing longer contact with the dangerous voltage levels
and making things worse.


A little background: AC voltages are measured not from
peak-to-peak (i.e. not from maximum positive to maximum
negative), nor from zero to maximum, but as the
root-mean-square of the voltage over a complete cycle.
That means mathematically taking the average of the square
of the voltage at small incremental values of time over the
full cycle of positive and negative and then adding those
squares up and then dividing by the number of time incre-
ments (i.e. no. of mesurements) and then taking the square
root of the result to give the "root-mean-square", i.e the
square root of the average square of the voltage value over
the complete cycle. (For the root-mean-square of a sine
wave, see the web page at URL:
<http://scienceworld.wolfram.com/physics/Root-Mean-SquareVoltage.html>

While it may seem esoteric to the layperson, it's a way of
expressing the power-producing equivalent of a Direct
Current. In other words, 10 root-mean-square ("RMS")
volts across a 100 ohm load would give the same 1 watt
of heat as 10 volts of DC applied over the same 100 ohm
load. Note that the value of the RMS voltage is lower
than the zero-to-peak value of the voltage. And it is this
RMS value that is referenced when one says that house
voltage is 120 volts, *not* that the maximum excursion
is 120 volts positive above neutral (zero) or 120 volts
negative below neutral. Practically speaking, that means
that a 100 watt light bulb will burn as brightly using 120
RMS AC volts as it would with 120 DC volts. Notice
that the true maximum voltage excursion is really somewhere
around 120 x (square root of 2), or about 120 x 1.42 = 170
volts from neutral given a standard sine wave-shaped voltage
(i.e. that of normal power grids). And that means that any
insulation for wires carrying such voltage must withstand at
*least* 170 volts for sine wave AC voltage rated at
"120 volts" because "120 volts" in that case really means
"120 volts RMS", not "a maximum voltage of 120 volts".

The reason usually given for high voltages (i.e. several
hundred volts) being less deadly than house current voltages
has to do with its effect on the heart and whether the heart
will go into a protective spasm or continue to beat in an
unsychronized way (fibrillation). I have read that voltages
lower, somewhere around 90 volts to 75 volts are actually
more dangerous for this reason. And, as DrumGuy has stated,
at the same voltage, DC is more dangerous than AC because
it puts the heart into a fixed spasm rather than a series
of on-and-off spasms. But 12 volts - either AC or DC -
is way below the dangerous value.

Here is an excerpt from the web page at the following URL:

http://www.colorado.edu/physics/phys5430/phys5430_sp01/Course Information/Laboratory Safety.htm

"A good standard practice when working with exposed
high voltage is to always keep one hand in your pocket
to avoid the possibility of a current entering your body through
one hand and leaving through the other, because it is closest
will pass through your heart and start it fibrillating. Most
accidental electrocutions are due to fibrillation. For this reason
the most lethal voltage levels are around 400-500 V, since this
is most likely to lead to currents which cause fibrillation.
Higher voltages (for example, 2000 V), while still dangerous,
tend to cause the heart muscle to simply spasm, but beating will
usually resume if the voltage is removed quickly. High voltage,
high current sparks frequently cause very deep burns which
take a long time to heal. The 120 V line power is relatively safe,
but can still can provide painful shocks and can be quite
dangerous if your body is a relatively low resistance path, for
example if your hands are wet when you touch the wire.
Voltages below 50 V usually involve little danger."

In short, you don't have to worry about 12 volts. Inside the
power supply (and inside a CRT monitor) is the only place
in a PC that you'll find voltages higher than that. If you stay
out of the power supply, your only worry is killing a chip,
not killing yourself.


*TimDaniels*
 
As a side note, the topic I was responding to was not only about blowing out
a computer, but a power supply in particular ... which, as you noted as
well, can contain dangerously high voltages. Therefore, I was correct in
cautioning the poster that it is, in fact, dangerous.


Drumguy
 
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