Don said:
My UPS, Belkin 375, was guaranteed for 3 years -- and just failed after 42
months. The component obviously running too hot was not the battery
(as expected) but the transformer. So I am undecided whether to
replace the battery; I would not attempt to replace the transformer.
1. Is it normal for a (lead-acid) battery at the end of its life to cause
UPS
overheating and auto-off? (It is hard to imagine the transformer
degrading or overheating by itself.)
If you paid for the Belkin with a Visa or American Express credit
card, their warranty extension program may help you. They double
factory warranties by up to a year. With Visa the original warranty
can be up to 3 years, with Amex, up to 5 years. Both companies handle
claims very well. OTOH Mastercard's protection applies only to
original warranties of 12 months or less, and their service seems to
be really bad (Pay $100 for a repair estimate on a $50 product, and MC
won't reimburse you for the estimate). BTW in the last couple of
years, Discover card has added protection for warranties of up to 3
years, but apparently not all customer accounts have this.
Did the transformer really fail? I don't have an UPS, just some
backup supplies that switch over to battery only during blackouts, yet
their transformers run pretty hot, even when they're doing nothing but
charging their batteries. Generally when a big transformer fails, a
thermal fuse tucked into the windings melts open, and your ohm meter
will read infinity when you measure the primary side. If it shows
continuity there, can you run the transformer safely, that is, unplug
it from the UPS circuitry (to prevent high voltage from being
generated by that circuitry) and measure its output directly (AC cord
plugged into an outlet protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter
and a friend standing nearby in case you get shocked) ?
2. Are there nowadays non-lead batteries (to replace a Ritar RT1240)
that might work better?
You'd have to modify the charging circuit, especially for a lithium
battery, which requires really accurate measurement of the voltage for
proper charging and to avoid a serious fire or explosion risk if
there's any overcharging. It should be easier to accommodate nicad or
NiMH charging, but the charging circuit will probably still have to be
modified, and those batteries are a lot, lot bigger for the same
energy capacity. You'll probably need real D cells (many rechargeable
D cells are actually C or AA cells) rated for at least 5 amp*hours.
I've found that the lead-acid batteries of backup supplies don't last
much more than about 3 years, and even if they pass the backup's built-
in self test they can be really weak and not be able to power a
computer for more than 30 seconds. On Belkins the test can be
triggered manually by pressing the power button for about 1/2 to 1
second, and it loads down 3-4 amp*hour batteries by about 150-300 mA
for about 15 seconds.
Is your Belkin a model F6H-375-USB? I have a couple of them, and
they're completely different inside from one another, except for the
battery. The older one was made by Delta, and has a transformer the
size of a baseball or softball, while the newer one is by Central Lion
and uses a tiny transformer (high frequency?). The Delta once failed,
but I couldn't find anything wrong with it (no shorted diodes or
transistors, capacitor ESRs were OK), and resoldering the board or
changing the battery didn't help, but after a couple of years in
storage, it works again. Neither backup has the best surge
protection, and there's practically no line filter to prevent a laser
printer plugged into a nearby outlet from crashing the computer
(unlike APC backups).
If you live in the vicinity of a Fry's, they sometimes advertise a
550VA APC for $30, after rebate, and currently they have a 675VA
Cyberpower for $50, AR.