I believe you are right on that one. I think that if the vcore didn't
fluctuate so much I could get by with 1.80v. It took 1.825v with this PSU to
get it Prime95 stable overnight.
.... could just be the particular CPU though, which seems likely as you're
keeping it cool enough and enough voltage, yet 2.1GHz isn't all that high
for a B-Step... then again, around that range it's pretty hard to notice a
couple hundred MHz one way or the other.
I haven't felt the caps, I will now. Thanks for the tip.
I know that some cap manufacturers (for example Rubycon) spec that their
caps' lifespan is cut in half per 10C temp rise. Fortunately they
determine end-of-life pretty strickly, with a lot of function left in the
parts, else boards would be dying left-and-right.
One thing, the PSU fan seems quite gutless, it's not pushing much air out
the back and what it is pushing is pretty hot. What do you think about me
putting a more powerful fan in the PSU? (I've been inside PSUs before and
know the risks). Do you think it's likely to help? It'll only cost me time,
I have a variety of fans and a slodering iron here.
Thanks for your comments Dave.
Sure, sounds like a good idea, especially if that's the original fan, a
cheap sleeve-bearing model that might sieze. Sometimes in order to keep
case noise-emissions low, I'll leave a slow fan on the back and suppliment
it with a pusher on the inside, either hanging down overtop the board
(when I'm comfortable that I'll leave a power supply in a given case and
that case has an extra inch between the power supply and board), or behind
the power supply, when there isn't room below it or with power supplies
like Sparkle or Thermaltake, that have heatsinks with large right-angle
protrusions that would block any airflow blowing straight up from the
bottom. That requires a bit of cutting though, maybe more work that it's
worth for a generic power supply... the simple fan swap may be the best
alternative in your situation, though I'll throw a few more ideas out
there just for the heck of it.
Another option might be if there's a thermal sensor inside, controlling
the fan speed. If so you might be able to slightly bend it toward the
heatsink, throw a blob of epoxy or (other heat-conduction material) on it
to make a bridge to a 'sink), or even solder it's leads together,
effectively shorting it to give the max fan RPM, or a bit fancier is a
rheostat or POT substituted for that sensor, usually around 10K Ohm range,
will allow manual control... just be sure you're looking at the fan
control sensor, not a thermal cutoff sensor for the whole PSU.
Sometimes the thermal sensor is on it's own tiny PCB, obvious by following
the fan header which plugs into it. The same modifications can apply, or
when it's that separate PCB, it's typically daisey-chained to a 2nd fan
header on the main PCB, so the fan can just be unpluggged from the
fan-control PCB and plugged into the unregulated fan header. Then again
I'm thinking of moderately decent power supplies, it's hard to speculate
about what may or may not be found in a generic-comes-with-case PSU.