Backing up data to CDs--problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter Marty
  • Start date Start date
M

Marty

Not sure if this is the right newsgroup...

I am trying to back up data (documents and photos) to CD, using three discs
because of total size and type of data. There were no problems with the
first two.



With the third, I'm having trouble. Sometimes I'm told to insert a writable
CD because there's no disc in the drive, even when there is. No big deal, I
open and the close the tray and it recognizes that there's a disc.



Then I click to write the files to CD and the wizard starts up. After
clicking "next", the wizard tells me that it can't complete because the CD
doesn't have enough free space; there are -0- bytes available. I put another
CD in there and the same thing happens. Again, keep in mind that 24 hours
earlier I successfully wrote two CDs. I've also encountered the same problem
on other occasions.



These discs are from a package of Memorex and I suspect they're not
defective. Presumably there's a hardware or software problem. Is there
anything I can do to get these files backed up? Is there another type of
storage medium (flash drive?) that is likely to work OK?



Disclosure: if it's not already apparent from the above, I'm not
particularly computer-literate.
 
Not sure if this is the right newsgroup...

I am trying to back up data (documents and photos) to CD, using three discs
because of total size and type of data. There were no problems with the
first two.

With the third, I'm having trouble. Sometimes I'm told to insert a writable
CD because there's no disc in the drive, even when there is. No big deal,I
open and the close the tray and it recognizes that there's a disc.

Then I click to write the files to CD and the wizard starts up. After
clicking "next", the wizard tells me that it can't complete because the CD
doesn't have enough free space; there are -0- bytes available. I put another
CD in there and the same thing happens. Again, keep in mind that 24 hours
earlier I successfully wrote two CDs. I've also encountered the same problem
on other occasions.

These discs are from a package of Memorex and I suspect they're not
defective. Presumably there's a hardware or software problem. Is there
anything I can do to get these files backed up? Is there another type of
storage medium (flash drive?) that is likely to work OK?

Disclosure: if it's not already apparent from the above, I'm not
particularly computer-literate.
Click to expand...

What type of CD disks? CD-Rs are write only once. CD-RW can written
multiple times.

Also, what software are you using? Native tools in XP do not allow
the "spanning" across multiple CDs.
 
First, it is not uncommon to find one or more "bad" CDs in a package of 50,
even if they are a name brand like Memorex.

Second, exactly "how" are you writing to CD? While drag&drop, using Windows
Explorer, sounds simple, it is probably the least reliable way to make CDs.
And, such CDs are the least likely to be readable on other computers.
Instead, get some third-party CD writing software, build a "project",
meaning a list of files or directories, then burn to CD being sure to check
a box similar to "close", "finalize", or "make readable on other PCs". I
use Easy CD Creator (now Easy Media Creator). Other like Nero. A fairly
good program that is free is

http://www.deepburner.com/

The free version is adequate for simple backups and such. Further, the free
version also comes as a "portable" program, meaning that it does not need to
be "installed". In fact, it can be run from a USB stick. It comes with a
help file in CHM format. Just double-click to open, and XP should be able
to read it.

Third, never "span" CDs. Write whatever fits comfortably on one CD. If
size is an issue, consider geting a DVD writer. They are fairly cheap these
days, and of course, they also write CDs.

Fourth, if you continue to have trouble writing to CD, try closing all user
applications, except the CD writer program, and maybe even turn off the
on-access virus scanner. CD writing is most successful, if you are not
attempting to do anything else.

Finally, some combinations of CPU, RAM writer, etc just do not work well for
writing "directly" to CD. Firtunately, many CD writing programs have an
option to write to an image file (ISO, DAA, UIF, etc). That should work
independent of the physical writer and CD media, since neither are used to
make an image. If the image can not be made, then look for bad files,
locked files, etc. If the image can be made, then try to write the image to
a CD using an option like "burn from image". This two-step process can also
be used to make multiple copies of a CD.
 
Bob Harris said:
First, it is not uncommon to find one or more "bad" CDs in a package of
50, even if they are a name brand like Memorex.
Click to expand...

I've already tried at least three; I'll try a couple more.
Second, exactly "how" are you writing to CD? While drag&drop, using
Windows Explorer, sounds simple, it is probably the least reliable way to
make CDs.
Click to expand...

Don't know about "drag and drop", but I'm right-clicking on the files I want
and then clicking to send these to the CD Drive. Then trying to write by
right-clicking on Drive D and clicking "Write these files to CD."
And, such CDs are the least likely to be readable on other computers.
Instead, get some third-party CD writing software, build a "project",
meaning a list of files or directories, then burn to CD being sure to
check a box similar to "close", "finalize", or "make readable on other
PCs". I use Easy CD Creator (now Easy Media Creator). Other like Nero.
A fairly good program that is free is

http://www.deepburner.com/
Click to expand...

I'll take a look at this and see if I can figure out how to use it.
The free version is adequate for simple backups and such. Further, the
free version also comes as a "portable" program, meaning that it does not
need to be "installed". In fact, it can be run from a USB stick. It
comes with a help file in CHM format. Just double-click to open, and XP
should be able to read it.

Third, never "span" CDs. Write whatever fits comfortably on one CD.
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to "span", if I understand the term, which sounds trying to
write more than a CD will hold and writing the excess onto the second one. I
mentioned three CDs, but all three were independent operations and each
group of files was within one CD's capacity.
If size is an issue, consider geting a DVD writer. They are fairly cheap
these days, and of course, they also write CDs.
Click to expand...

Not sure exactly what that writer is. A piece of hardware that can be added
to my PC?
Fourth, if you continue to have trouble writing to CD, try closing all
user applications, except the CD writer program, and maybe even turn off
the on-access virus scanner. CD writing is most successful, if you are
not attempting to do anything else.
Click to expand...

I will try that.
Finally, some combinations of CPU, RAM writer, etc just do not work well
for writing "directly" to CD. Firtunately, many CD writing programs have
an option to write to an image file (ISO, DAA, UIF, etc). That should
work independent of the physical writer and CD media, since neither are
used to make an image. If the image can not be made, then look for bad
files, locked files, etc. If the image can be made, then try to write the
image to a CD using an option like "burn from image". This two-step
process can also be used to make multiple copies of a CD.
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand this stuff.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'll let you know if one of the
suggestions works.
 
I've tried more times, including Deep Burner and end with an error every
time. Is there a way to determine if it's a hardware or software problem
without spending a fortune at a repair shop?
 
Hold old is your system? Maybe the CD writer is on its way out. A new writer
isn't all that expensive, and is relatively easy to install. If you're not
sure how, maybe you have a friend who could help you with it? Cheaper than
the repair shop, that's for sure.

SC Tom
 
Marty said:
I've tried more times, including Deep Burner and end with an error every
time. Is there a way to determine if it's a hardware or software problem
without spending a fortune at a repair shop?
Click to expand...

A new drive isn't that expensive.

I got this about five months ago (GH22), and it seems to work OK.
This package is retail, and includes burner software. Retail means
it comes in a box, and includes accessories like screws for mounting,
and burner software (if you're lucky).

http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pr...665000FS10107476&catid=10475&logon=&langid=EN

You can also get bare drives (OEM). Maybe your copy of
Deepburner would work with these. Note that there are
two kinds of interfaces on these, one being "SATA" and
the other is "IDE" or ribbon cable. An OEM drive may
come in a bag, with no accessories. It is also cheaper.
A drive in a bag, is what a system builder might use.
(The pictures on the site here, may help identify whether
accessories of any kind are included.)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...PA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=gh22&x=0&y=0

A SATA drive has a 15 pin (power) and 7 pin (data) connector
on the back. There is an example of the back of a
SATA burner here. The data cable is relatively thin.
The power cable might have five thick wires on it.
There is one wire per three pins on the 15 pin power wafer.
SATA is the newest interface standard, and has been in
machines for several years.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/27-129-031-04.jpg

(SATA data cable is thin. If yours doesn't look like this, it could be IDE.)
http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/12-816-031-03.jpg

The IDE or ribbon cable kind of drive, has a 2x20 set of pins,
where the ribbon cable plugs in. A 1x4 Molex power cable, with
four wires, provides power. The "Device Configuration Jumper"
section, should be set to match what was used on the old burner.
Since two drives can be used on one ribbon cable, they
have terms like "Master/Slave" or "Cable Select" for the
jumper settings. "Cable Select" for both drives, means
the connector position on the cable sets the master or
slave characteristic. Otherwise, if two devices share
a cable, then one should be master and the other one
slave. There are web pages with more details on this,
and I'm providing the barest of details here. If a single
drive is used on the ribbon cable, it should occupy the
connector on the end of the cable. Don't connect a single
drive, to the middle connector, and leave the end connector
empty. You fill the end first, and then use the middle next.

http://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/productimage/27-129-024-04.jpg

To install a drive, you'll need a screwdriver, plus the instructions
that came with your machine, on removing things from the drive bays.
The existing drive may have "slides" bolted to the side of it,
and each may have a retaining clip on the end. These help hold
the drive in place. The slides, allow the old drive to be slid out
(after the cables are disconnected). Take note of cable orientation
and make a diagram so the new drive goes in the same way. Be careful
not to bend the pins on the 2x20 IDE - make sure the cable connector
is aligned with its mate, before applying pressure to seat the
connector.

On SATA, the issue is the fragility of the wafer style connector.
The connectors may snap into place, but bending up and down on
the connector, could snap the wafer. While SATA may be a
technical improvement over IDE, I still like IDE for the
amount of abuse it can take. I think I've only ever ruined
one motherboard IDE connector. I haven't done enough SATA yet,
to have a track record :-)

So, with the aid of a screwdriver, and reading available
instructions, you can probably manage to change out a drive.

*******
I have another alternative for you. For example, I bought
one of these. This takes an optical drive, like the GH22
IDE version, and provides a home for it. The back of the
enclosure, has a USB connector. As long as your computer
has a USB2 connector on the back of it, you can connect
up a burner this way. This one comes with a 12V wall adapter,
which provides power to the drive. The USB2 interface,
is used to carry the data while burning. I can even
boot an installer CD/DVD with this (as long as
the drive is in the BIOS boot order).

http://www.startech.com/item/IDECASE525U2-InfoSafe-Portable-525-USB-20-IDE-Drive-Case.aspx

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817604006

There is also a version for SATA optical drives.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817707134

The kind of burner you buy, should match your fleet of computers.
For example, I have a lot of IDE (ribbon cable) computers here,
so I don't have a strong incentive to go SATA. IDE will be
eliminated soon, so eventually I won't have a choice in the
matter.

Enclosures come in 2.5", 3.5", and 5.25". The optical drive is a
5.25" device, which is why the large enclosure is needed. So far,
the USB2 interface seems to have enough bandwidth for burning.
(USB2 tops out at about 30MB/sec or so.) I haven't burned a
lot of discs on it yet though.

Using an enclosure, means the device is portable. It means not
having to work inside your computer. It still requires
screwdriver work. It can still be fiddly to get going.
The connectors in the enclosure are not always top quality.
But it is another option if you have the money for it.

Buying a new OEM drive for $25, is the cheapest option.

HTH,
Paul
 
Tom,

This computer was purchased in September 2005. I haven't used the CD writer
that much, though, backing up data every so often and writing some photos to
take to the store for processing.

I'll look into your suggestion. My son could install it easily but he's 500
miles away.

Thanks.
 
Back
Top