ATX case and Power Supply

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0b3hks001

This is the first time I am trying to build a computer. This computer
would serve as my backup computer just in case my main computer goes
down or dies -- mostly spreadsheet, word processing, email and
internet.

I was given an Asus P5A motherboard with an AMD-K6-2/500AFX CPU. And
I have most of the peripherals (HD, RAM, etc.). I need to buy a case
and a power supply.

Since I don't know whether I would be successful in making it work, I
am looking to spend a reasonable minimum on the ATX case and PS.

I would appreciate your opinions on the following cases (both from
Newegg.com):

1. Dynapower Metis Series CS-I3ASB.701 -- comes with 300W PS (Some
reported that it actually comes with 420W PS) -- $36.

2. Powmax 0808, model CP808PL-1 -- comes with 350W PS -- $28.

Is one of them worth buying for my purpose? Or should I move on to
another case/PS? If the latter, recommendations would be appreciated?

TIA
 
This is the first time I am trying to build a computer. This computer
would serve as my backup computer just in case my main computer goes
down or dies -- mostly spreadsheet, word processing, email and
internet.

I was given an Asus P5A motherboard with an AMD-K6-2/500AFX CPU. And
I have most of the peripherals (HD, RAM, etc.). I need to buy a case
and a power supply.

Since I don't know whether I would be successful in making it work, I
am looking to spend a reasonable minimum on the ATX case and PS.

I would appreciate your opinions on the following cases (both from
Newegg.com):

1. Dynapower Metis Series CS-I3ASB.701 -- comes with 300W PS (Some
reported that it actually comes with 420W PS) -- $36.

2. Powmax 0808, model CP808PL-1 -- comes with 350W PS -- $28.

Is one of them worth buying for my purpose? Or should I move on to
another case/PS? If the latter, recommendations would be appreciated?

TIA
Click to expand...
This guy is on eBay and at the Yahoo store.
http://store.yahoo.com/bilsystem-store/cases.html
Good Luck
 
This guy is on eBay and at the Yahoo store.
http://store.yahoo.com/bilsystem-store/cases.html
Good Luck
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I wasn't clear. By "recommendation", I mean
suggestions of specific ATX cases and power supply -- because I don't
really know the relative merits of the various brands.

I forgot to mention that the prices mentioned above for Newegg
includes shipping.

[The 2 cheap cases at the above links have no brand names; and cost
about $18 for shipping -- more than the cost of the case/ps.]
 
I was given an Asus P5A motherboard with an AMD-K6-2/500AFX CPU.
I need to buy a case and a power supply.
Click to expand...
1. Dynapower Metis Series CS-I3ASB.701 -- comes with 300W PS
(Some reported that it actually comes with 420W PS) -- $36.

2. Powmax 0808, model CP808PL-1 -- comes with 350W PS -- $28.

Is one of them worth buying for my purpose? Or should I move on to
another case/PS?
Click to expand...

I don't know about the cases themselves, but the PSUs included with
them are really bad junk. The Dynapower has a Deer-made PSU (as
indicated by an "LC" or "DR" at the beginning of the model number)
while the Powmax has a Powmax PSU. Ordinarily, anything would be
better than Deer, but here it may be preferable because I don't see
any UL or CSA safety approvals on the sticker of that particular
Powmax.

I'd much rather buy one of Newegg's Fortron-Source PSUs for $20-35,
which are first-rate in quality and so conservatively rated that their
350W models can power about any 3 GHz or slower system. Your system
probably needs only 80W, but you may want to get a 300W model in case
you later upgrade to a Pentium 4 or Athlon.

Is there a Fry's Electronics in your area? Fry's sometimes has cases
for as little as $10 after rebate, although the PSU in it is almost
always junk and should be replaced with something better.
Unfortunately Fry's isn't that cheap for good PSUs (the $10 after
rebate 420W they're featuring through 8/24 is built lighter than even
some 200W PSUs).

A good thread about computer case bargains can be found here:

www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.php?catid=18&threadid=353053&highlight_key=y&keyword1=case
 
I don't know about the cases themselves, but the PSUs included with
them are really bad junk. The Dynapower has a Deer-made PSU (as
indicated by an "LC" or "DR" at the beginning of the model number)
while the Powmax has a Powmax PSU. Ordinarily, anything would be
better than Deer, but here it may be preferable because I don't see
any UL or CSA safety approvals on the sticker of that particular
Powmax.
Click to expand...

I am confused. I thought lack of UL/CSA sticker is a negative thing?

I'd much rather buy one of Newegg's Fortron-Source PSUs for $20-35,
which are first-rate in quality and so conservatively rated that their
350W models can power about any 3 GHz or slower system. Your system
probably needs only 80W, but you may want to get a 300W model in case
you later upgrade to a Pentium 4 or Athlon.

Is there a Fry's Electronics in your area? Fry's sometimes has cases
for as little as $10 after rebate, although the PSU in it is almost
always junk and should be replaced with something better.
Unfortunately Fry's isn't that cheap for good PSUs (the $10 after
rebate 420W they're featuring through 8/24 is built lighter than even
some 200W PSUs).
Click to expand...

I wish; but I am on the east coast.
A good thread about computer case bargains can be found here:

www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.php?catid=18&threadid=353053&highlight_key=y&keyword1=case
Click to expand...

I picked Powmax from that link. I am buying my first case to build a
standby computer; and I am not familiar with the various brand names.
And I found that shipping for these cases are expensive ($15-20).

If you have to pick one from the list in the first post in your link,
which two would you pick?

TIA
 
Below is an amended version of my previous response -- which was sent
prematuredly.

I don't know about the cases themselves, but the PSUs included with
them are really bad junk. The Dynapower has a Deer-made PSU (as
indicated by an "LC" or "DR" at the beginning of the model number)
while the Powmax has a Powmax PSU. Ordinarily, anything would be
better than Deer, but here it may be preferable because I don't see
any UL or CSA safety approvals on the sticker of that particular
Powmax.
Click to expand...

According to Newegg's web site, an image of the Dynapower's PSU label
is listed under LC Technologies on the UL.com. However, the model #s
are supposed to be LC-AxxxATX; whereas Newegg's image shows the model
# to be LC-BxxxATX. Is that what you mean by no UL sticker?

And I am confused because I thought no UL sticker is a negative thing
(as opposed to "perferrable")?
I'd much rather buy one of Newegg's Fortron-Source PSUs for $20-35,
which are first-rate in quality and so conservatively rated that their
350W models can power about any 3 GHz or slower system. Your system
probably needs only 80W, but you may want to get a 300W model in case
you later upgrade to a Pentium 4 or Athlon.

Is there a Fry's Electronics in your area? Fry's sometimes has cases
for as little as $10 after rebate, although the PSU in it is almost
always junk and should be replaced with something better.
Unfortunately Fry's isn't that cheap for good PSUs (the $10 after
rebate 420W they're featuring through 8/24 is built lighter than even
some 200W PSUs).
Click to expand...

I wish; but I am on the East Coast.
A good thread about computer case bargains can be found here:
www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.php?catid=18&threadid=353053&highlight_key=y&keyword1=case
Click to expand...

I picked Powmax from that link. I am buying my first case to build a
standby computer; and am not familiar with the various brand names.
[In looking, I found that shipping for these cases are expensive
($18-20).]

If you have to pick one from the list in the first post in your link,
which two would you pick?

TIA
 
(e-mail address removed) (larrymoencurly) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

According to Newegg's web site, an image of the Dynapower's PSU label
is listed under LC Technologies on the UL.com. However, the model #s
are supposed to be LC-AxxxATX; whereas Newegg's image shows the model
# to be LC-BxxxATX. Is that what you mean by no UL sticker?
And I am confused because I thought no UL sticker is a negative thing
(as opposed to "perferrable")?
Click to expand...

I don't know about any UL sticker, but the manufacturer's sticker,
which lists things like the model number, specs, serial number, and
any safety approvals, should list registration numbers under any UL
("RU", where the "R" is backwards) or CSA logos. Some companies list
no such numbers or list phoney ones because their products haven't
really been approved, and considering how bad so many UL and CSA
approved PSUs are, the non-approved ones have got to be even worse
trash. I've had only one non-approved PSU, and while I can't comment
about its safety aspects, I can tell you that it performed badly. For
example, its lack of any EMI filter resulted in tons of interference
on broadcast TV and AM radio (no radio reception at all), and its +5V
standby rail, rated for 1.5A maximum, always shut down in thirty
seconds even at less than half that much current.
I'd much rather buy one of Newegg's Fortron-Source PSUs for $20-35,
which are first-rate in quality and so conservatively rated that their
350W models can power about any 3 GHz or slower system.
A good thread about computer case bargains can be found here:
www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.php?catid=18&threadid=353053&highlight_key=y&keyword1=case
Click to expand...

I picked Powmax from that link. I am buying my first case to build a
standby computer; and am not familiar with the various brand names.
[In looking, I found that shipping for these cases are expensive
($18-20).]

If you have to pick one from the list in the first post in your link,
which two would you pick?
Click to expand...

I probably would have picked the one with that Deer PSU, only because
Powmax is now so bad, for the reasons I mentioned above. Also I've
found that if a case isn't at least 19" deep, front to back (most are
only 17"), there may not be enough room for both the mobo and any CD
or DVD drive in front of it. Sure, you can mount those drives above
the mobo, but that can put them beyond the reach of 18" IDE cables.
 
This is the first time I am trying to build a computer. This computer
would serve as my backup computer just in case my main computer goes
down or dies -- mostly spreadsheet, word processing, email and
internet.

I was given an Asus P5A motherboard with an AMD-K6-2/500AFX CPU. And
I have most of the peripherals (HD, RAM, etc.). I need to buy a case
and a power supply.

Since I don't know whether I would be successful in making it work, I
am looking to spend a reasonable minimum on the ATX case and PS.

I would appreciate your opinions on the following cases (both from
Newegg.com):

1. Dynapower Metis Series CS-I3ASB.701 -- comes with 300W PS (Some
reported that it actually comes with 420W PS) -- $36.

2. Powmax 0808, model CP808PL-1 -- comes with 350W PS -- $28.

Is one of them worth buying for my purpose? Or should I move on to
another case/PS? If the latter, recommendations would be appreciated?

TIA
Click to expand...

IMHO, you'd be better off finding an old "abandoned" ATX case at
goodwill, a mom-n-pop computer shop, etc, then buying a new,
decent name-brand 250W power supply. Or, an alternate approach
would be buying a good high-wattage power supply, then if your
main system's PSU fails you have a spare that can power it... or,
next time you buy parts to upgrade your main computer, you have a
power supply already that can power that or the replacement
parts.
 
kony said:
IMHO, you'd be better off finding an old "abandoned" ATX case at
goodwill, a mom-n-pop computer shop, etc, then buying a new,
decent name-brand 250W power supply. Or, an alternate approach
would be buying a good high-wattage power supply, then if your
main system's PSU fails you have a spare that can power it... or,
next time you buy parts to upgrade your main computer, you have a
power supply already that can power that or the replacement
parts.
Click to expand...

I think you have to be careful in condemning any PS/case. I just bought
an Apex PC-115-BS case with a 300W PS. The supply is an Allied
AL-A300ATX. I'm not running a "space heater" computer, so it's probably
litely loaded. The case is pretty neat. It has 4 5.25" bays and 8 3.5"
bays (2 external). It's well made with no exposed sharp edges. The
side panels fit well and seem to have good RFI protection. The steel is
0.021" There is provision for 80/93mm fans front and back. It has
front USB connectors. I got it at pcclub.

All at a cost of $19.99, after a $6.00 rebate. Even if I binned the PS,
the case is well worth the price.

I just bought a second one which seems to have a 300W Deer PS. I'll be
opening up the supply just to see how bad it is. :-)

The only way to rate a case is by a "hands on" checkout!

Virg Wall
 
I probably would have picked the one with that Deer PSU, only because
Powmax is now so bad, for the reasons I mentioned above. Also I've
found that if a case isn't at least 19" deep, front to back (most are
only 17"), there may not be enough room for both the mobo and any CD
or DVD drive in front of it. Sure, you can mount those drives above
the mobo, but that can put them beyond the reach of 18" IDE cables.
Click to expand...

I will keep that in mind.

Another question. I have an old 486DX2 computer (AT case). Would it
work if I use that case and buy an ATX PSU? Would the "holes" in the
motherboard and the AT case line up? Or are there other
incompatibilities?

TIA
 
I will keep that in mind.

Another question. I have an old 486DX2 computer (AT case). Would it
work if I use that case and buy an ATX PSU? Would the "holes" in the
motherboard and the AT case line up? Or are there other
incompatibilities?
Click to expand...

No, the typical AT case has enough differences that it's not
worthwhile to try converting it, which requires cutting out rear
sections, adding standoffs, changing front power switch.

4 of the holes would line up, the others are questionable. The
case might not even be physically big enough to accomodate the
height of the atx board.
 
I have an old 486DX2 computer (AT case). Would it work if I
use that case and buy an ATX PSU? Would the "holes" in the
motherboard and the AT case line up? Or are there other
incompatibilities?
Click to expand...

The big problem is the holes in the back panel won't line up with
anything on the mobo because ATX mobos have more stuff in the back
(connectors for serial, parallel, USB, and often sound and network)
and sit higher up in the case because of the stuff above the keyboard
port.
 
The big problem is the holes in the back panel won't line up with
anything on the mobo because ATX mobos have more stuff in the back
(connectors for serial, parallel, USB, and often sound and network)
and sit higher up in the case because of the stuff above the keyboard
port.
Click to expand...

I just remember I have a Dell Dimension XPS 133c (Intel pentium
133MHz). The on-board hard drive contorller doesn't work when the
weather is cold; and works fine in the summer. Does anyone know
whether that case is an ATX case? If yes, can I reuse that case by
replacing the motherboard with the Asus P5A (with AMD-K6-2/550AFX)?

A general question about ATX case. If I go looking for a used
computer case, how do I tell whether the case is ATX or AT? Which CPU
(Intel and AMD) started to require ATX case? i.e. If the computer is
a Pentium X, nnnMHZ (or AMD - Kx) then the case must be an ATX case.

TIA
 
I just remember I have a Dell Dimension XPS 133c (Intel pentium
133MHz). The on-board hard drive contorller doesn't work when the
weather is cold; and works fine in the summer. Does anyone know
whether that case is an ATX case? If yes, can I reuse that case by
replacing the motherboard with the Asus P5A (with AMD-K6-2/550AFX)?

A general question about ATX case. If I go looking for a used
computer case, how do I tell whether the case is ATX or AT? Which CPU
(Intel and AMD) started to require ATX case? i.e. If the computer is
a Pentium X, nnnMHZ (or AMD - Kx) then the case must be an ATX case.
Click to expand...

Why would you buy a used case??? Around here you can get a new ATX case with
power supply for $29 (CDN)... Granted it's a crappy power supply, but it
does work for most folks who don't cram the machine full or overclock.
 
I just remember I have a Dell Dimension XPS 133c (Intel pentium
133MHz). The on-board hard drive contorller doesn't work when the
weather is cold; and works fine in the summer. Does anyone know
whether that case is an ATX case? If yes, can I reuse that case by
replacing the motherboard with the Asus P5A (with AMD-K6-2/550AFX)?
Click to expand...

It's probably a hybrid case, more like ATX than some but not
fully ATX. Why ask us though, just take the board and compare to
the case?

A general question about ATX case. If I go looking for a used
computer case, how do I tell whether the case is ATX or AT? Which CPU
(Intel and AMD) started to require ATX case? i.e. If the computer is
a Pentium X, nnnMHZ (or AMD - Kx) then the case must be an ATX case.
Click to expand...

There was a transition period, during which there was no "must",
you could find either form-factor for same (processor) system.
As a rough guide, most often a Pentium 1 or K6-1 was AT, and
Pentium 2 or K6-2 was ATX, but within that era it can't be
assumed, OEMs may have shifted to ATX quicker or have
non-standard cases, in addtion to non-standard power supplies.

Google will find specs for ATX form-factor, learn those and you
can just look at a case and tell which it is... that is much more
reliable than judging by what CPU is inside, since there even
some junk motherboards that allowed running a Pentium 3 in an old
AT case.
 
Why would you buy a used case??? Around here you can get a new ATX case with
power supply for $29 (CDN)... Granted it's a crappy power supply, but it
does work for most folks who don't cram the machine full or overclock.
Click to expand...


1) Because PSU should be replaced anyway

2) Friendlier to environment to reuse

3) Typically sturdier than cheap new case

4) Usually cheaper than new case, maybe even free


Certainly there are drawbacks to used cases, like having to clean
them and lack of front ports. Then there's the potentially poor
airflow, but cheap new cases may not have the greatest airflow
either, could be that either would need modification for optimal
results with a newer build. OP isn't describing anything newer,
creating much heat though, just about any old case should be fine
as-is.
 
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