Hi p. mc,
Although I'm late jumping in on this thread, I have been keeping track of
it.
This would be difficult to t-shoot over the telephone in real time, let
alone in a newsgroup.
For some excellent hardware info. (including power supplies) go to your
local library, and check out a copy of Scott Mueller's book Upgrading &
Repairing PC's. I think he's just releasing the 17th edition--so it's been
around a while. Beware, it may be *more* than you want to know (1000+
pages).
--
Curt BD-MVBT
http://dundats.mvps.org/
http://dundats.proboards27.com/index.cgi
http://www.aumha.org/
|
|
| --
| "Thanks for the info Andrew"
|
| I must state that I am interested in the fault findind aspect of the
problem
| and was waiting for a response from "w_tom", as this subject has been
quite
| extensively discussed already further down in the posts as you may well
see,
| I look upon it as a project as I am already looking to buy a new machine
for
| my needs.
| I'm just trying to learn a little as I go and if I can't do it myself,
then
| I'll have it repaired proffesionaly to retire it for the kids to use,
thanks
| for your comments though, I'm sure it benefits others too.
|
|
| Regards
| p.mc
|
|
| | > Take the power supply by itself or take case only to a reputable pc
shop,
| > they'll check youre system while you wait,usually free of charge...
| >
| > "p.mc" wrote:
| >
| >> (Snip/Tom replied)
| >> | >> > In but a minute with a 3.5 digit multimeter, trim the list of
| >> > suspects down to only power supply or motherboard, or ..... That
mains
| >> > testing light cannot report anything useful because numbers are
| >> > required.
| >> >
| >> > Light says power cord connects to AC mains. Light does not say any
| >> > voltage is sufficient. Only meter numbers can say that. Start by
| >> > measuring voltage on purple wire by pressing meter probes into 20 pin
| >> > nylon connector for purple wire and to any black wire (or touch
| >> > chassis). With computer powered off (and light still illuminated),
that
| >> > number must exceed 4.87 (and it probably will).
|| >>
| >> (My Test Results)
| >>
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/silverlinedigitalmultimeter.jpg
| >> (Tested with these settings and positions on multimeter)
| >>
| >>
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/PCfulload.jpg
| >> (all connections and peripherals connected and light still illuminated)
| >>
| >> ****5.7**** PURPLE
| >> >
| >> > Next take the number
| >> > for green wire both before and when power switch is pressed. That
| >> > number should be above 2.0 volts and drop to less than 0.8 volts when
| >> > switch is pressed. What happens here is very informative.
| >>
| >> ****0.02...both switched and unswitched **** GREEN
| >> >
| >> > Next, the gray wire. It must rise to well above 2.4 volts within
| >> > second of the power switch pressed. I suspect either voltage will
not
| >> > move or will rise and then fall.
| >>
| >> ****0.01**** GREY
| >> >
| >> > Now measure any red, orange and yellow wires when switch is
pressed.
| >> > Assuming the green wire voltage did drop, then each voltage here
| >> > should rise up (and then will probably fall). Any voltage that does
| >> > not rise up, then look for a short circuit for that voltage on
| >> > motherboard. If all voltages do rise up, then within a second, each
| >> > voltage must achieve more than 3.23, 4.87, or 11.7.
| >>
| >> ****0.47*** RED (un/switched - swithched)
| >> ****0.30**** ORANGE (un/switched - swithched)
| >> ****1.19**** YELLOW (un/switched - swithched)
| >> >
| >> > Information from those quick measurements either make it obvious
| >> > which is the suspect or post those numbers here for better analysis.
| >> >
| >>
| >> Regards
| >> p.mc
| >>
| >> (original message)
| >>
| >> > Hi
| >> >
| >> > I've been getting the BSOD for the last couple of months and I
thought
| >> > It
| >> > may have been my DVD/RW drive, (sorry no info because of first
| >> > sentence)
| >> > but
| >> > a couple of days ago I was converting an .avi to .vob,
(DVDsanta)...and
| >> > when
| >> > I went to check on it my PC was dead.
| >> >
| >> > The fuse in the kettle lead was ok so I opened up the tower and seen
| >> > that
| >> > the light on the MOBO was on, so I took out my HDD's and disconnected
| >> > everything except the 20 pin supply to the MOBO and tower and CPU
fans,
| >> > but
| >> > to my dismay when I pushed the power button on my PC the fans didn't
| >> > kick
| >> > in
| >> > (1...does there have to be a HDD with the OS installed for the fans
to
| >> > work?) So I'm under the impression that either the power supply is
| >> > knackered
| >> > (2...but why is the MOBO light on?) or The MOBO is knackered, but
then
| >> > again
| >> > I'm no expert and was hoping some tech buff could help in solving my
| >> > problem
| >> > (3...could the power supply have failed but have enough power for the
| >> > MOBO
| >> > light and nothing else??)
| >> >
| >> > I know the simple answer is to take it to a PC repair shop but I'd
| >> > rather
| >> > save money "as we all do" if someone may help me solve this.
| >> >
| >> > MOBO: ASUS A7A266
| >> > Power supply: FSP group inc
| >> > Model #: FSP250-60GTV (PF)
| >> > WinXP Home SP1
| >> >
| >> > A few piccys of the MOBO and Power supply
| >> >
| >>
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/PowersupplyforASUSA7A266MOBO.jpg
| >>
| >>
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/ASUSMOBOLight.jpg
| >>
| >>
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j238/npilcs/P1023151.jpg
| >> >
| >> > "Thanks"
| >> >
| >> > --
| >> >
| >> > Regards
| >> > p.mc
| >> >
| >>
| >>
|
|
