Asrock P4i65G motherboard

  • Thread starter Thread starter Corvet
  • Start date Start date
C

Corvet

I installed Asrock P4i65G motherboard and canno identify how to connect
front panel Audio cables: the manual is not very clear.
MB manual:
ftp://174.142.97.10/manual/P4i65G.pdf

page 17: Front Panel AC’97 Audio Header
(8-pin AUDIO1)

Problem is that pin-definition on cables from front panel and on Audio
Header on motherboard is different.
Match only 'ground'(GND) wire, the other names differs. There is two 4-wire
cables connected to front panel, I need connect it to Audio header. Each
pair consist from 4 wires: 'ground', +5V, D+, D-
I connected 'ground' wires to matching pins, but what is "D+", "D-" wires?
Also there is no +5V pin on MoBo Audio Header.
 
Corvet said:
I installed Asrock P4i65G motherboard and canno identify how to connect
front panel Audio cables: the manual is not very clear.
MB manual:
ftp://174.142.97.10/manual/P4i65G.pdf

page 17: Front Panel AC’97 Audio Header
(8-pin AUDIO1)

Problem is that pin-definition on cables from front panel and on Audio
Header on motherboard is different.
Match only 'ground'(GND) wire, the other names differs. There is two 4-wire
cables connected to front panel, I need connect it to Audio header. Each
pair consist from 4 wires: 'ground', +5V, D+, D-
I connected 'ground' wires to matching pins, but what is "D+", "D-" wires?
Also there is no +5V pin on MoBo Audio Header.
Click to expand...

Does your computer case have a make and model number ?

If not, do you have a web page for the place you bought it from, so
we can see it ?

Some computer cases, if they don't come with a sheet of paper in the
box, there will be a GIF or JPG picture on the manufacturer site,
with the cables and their pin names shown.

*******

For audio, look for a headphone jack and microphone jack on the
front panel of the computer case. Try to figure out, where the wire
bundles goes, as it comes from the connectors on the front panel, so
you'll be grabbing the correct set of wires.

There are two audio standards. Some pin names, to give you some hints,
are here.

http://attachments.techguy.org/attachments/159615d1258391131/frontpanel.jpg

+5V, D+, D-, GND is for USB. You can see some examples here. The motherboard
headers aren't all exactly the same way. The more modern a motherboard
is, the more likely it'll be standard.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx108_2.html

The audio doesn't need 10 wires, so you don't have to count to ten or anything.
Audio can be done with as few as five wires, sometimes seven. You'll notice, that
not all the information you can find, uses consistent names. And that's what we're
here for, to sort them out. (Put your signal names from the computer case wires
in a list and post them for more help, if you're still confused.)

http://www.frontx.com/cpx110.html

Firewire has signal names like TPA+, TPA-, TPB+, TPB-. There have been two
motherboard connector styles for Firewire. And front panel Firewire (1394a)
can come in 4 or 6 pin variations. The 6 pin front panel connector would be
the version that carries bus power (from VP and GND pins).

http://www.frontx.com/cpx105_2.html

Anyway, those are some things you can find in your front panel wiring. On
some cases, there might be three cable bundles, and you have to be real
careful to put them on the correct motherboard connectors. You can damage
the motherboard, or a very expensive peripheral, if you wire them up wrong.

*******

Also, another point. You don't *have* to wire up the front panel. It isn't
mandatory. The left over cables can hang down. Now, even though I know exactly
how to wire that stuff, I don't have it wired on any of my computer cases.
And the reason for that, is my computers are always oriented at waist height,
accessible from both front and back. (The computer sits on my computer table.)
And so, I don't need front panel wiring. Sometimes, I even tear out the unneeded
cable bundles.

One reason for keeping the computer off the floor, is so it sucks in less
dust. And the bonus for keeping it off the floor, is I can access the
back panel easily.

Paul
 
Paul said:
Does your computer case have a make and model number ?

If not, do you have a web page for the place you bought it from, so
we can see it ?

Some computer cases, if they don't come with a sheet of paper in the
box, there will be a GIF or JPG picture on the manufacturer site,
with the cables and their pin names shown.

*******

For audio, look for a headphone jack and microphone jack on the
front panel of the computer case. Try to figure out, where the wire
bundles goes, as it comes from the connectors on the front panel, so
you'll be grabbing the correct set of wires.

There are two audio standards. Some pin names, to give you some hints,
are here.

http://attachments.techguy.org/attachments/159615d1258391131/frontpanel.jpg

+5V, D+, D-, GND is for USB. You can see some examples here. The motherboard
headers aren't all exactly the same way. The more modern a motherboard
is, the more likely it'll be standard.

http://www.frontx.com/cpx108_2.html

The audio doesn't need 10 wires, so you don't have to count to ten or anything.
Audio can be done with as few as five wires, sometimes seven. You'll notice, that
not all the information you can find, uses consistent names. And that's what we're
here for, to sort them out. (Put your signal names from the computer case wires
in a list and post them for more help, if you're still confused.)

http://www.frontx.com/cpx110.html

Firewire has signal names like TPA+, TPA-, TPB+, TPB-. There have been two
motherboard connector styles for Firewire. And front panel Firewire (1394a)
can come in 4 or 6 pin variations. The 6 pin front panel connector would be
the version that carries bus power (from VP and GND pins).

http://www.frontx.com/cpx105_2.html

Anyway, those are some things you can find in your front panel wiring. On
some cases, there might be three cable bundles, and you have to be real
careful to put them on the correct motherboard connectors. You can damage
the motherboard, or a very expensive peripheral, if you wire them up wrong.

*******

Also, another point. You don't *have* to wire up the front panel. It isn't
mandatory. The left over cables can hang down. Now, even though I know exactly
how to wire that stuff, I don't have it wired on any of my computer cases.
And the reason for that, is my computers are always oriented at waist height,
accessible from both front and back. (The computer sits on my computer table.)
And so, I don't need front panel wiring. Sometimes, I even tear out the unneeded
cable bundles.

One reason for keeping the computer off the floor, is so it sucks in less
dust. And the bonus for keeping it off the floor, is I can access the
back panel easily.

Paul ------------------------------

+5V, D+, D-, GND is for USB.
Click to expand...
ohh, I have tangled wires, confused. Good thing is I have not connected +5V
cables there, I only connected the rest wires. Can this damage Audio though?
I dont think I can find computer case manufacturer, its just sort of cheap
generic box. Its very difficult no find where these wire bundles connected
on the front panel, as it deep inside, not visible, only via disassembling
the case. I will look tomorrow and respond back.
 
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Paul wrote:
[snip]
One reason for keeping the computer off the floor, is so it sucks in
less dust. And the bonus for keeping it off the floor, is I can access the
back panel easily.
Click to expand...

A-men brother!

I've been taking a few pics of the insides of boxes that have been bought to
me 'to fix' and some of them would have enough 'dust' inside to fill up a
plant pot and grow something. One day I'll collect them from all of their
various folders and put up a 'rogue's gallery' somewhere. (Sadly I didn't
start taking pics until quite recently, some of the worst machines won't be
represented.)

In various cases dust intake / build-up has caused failure / destruction of
graphics cards, HDDs, motherboards (especially those with on-board graphics)
and even PSUs!

Around 60% of the time a good clean-out 'fixes' the problems they've been
seeing (spontaneous re-boots, BSOD, ssslllooowww machines due to CPU
throttling, screaming / noisy fans). However in the other 40% of instances
components are damaged beyond reasonable reapair.

It's my considered opinion that only an idiot would keep a forced-air cooled
box full of delicate electronic components at floor lever where the most
'dust' is. If the idiot also smokes tobacco and keeps felines the issues are
multiplied by a factor of 5x for each.

Also, as you so rightly mention, USB and other ports are much easier to
access at desk hieght. Less back strain. You'd think it would be obvious....
--
Shaun.

"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a
monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also
into you." Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche
 
~misfit~ said:
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Paul wrote:
[snip]
One reason for keeping the computer off the floor, is so it sucks in
less dust. And the bonus for keeping it off the floor, is I can access the
back panel easily.
Click to expand...

A-men brother!

I've been taking a few pics of the insides of boxes that have been bought to
me 'to fix' and some of them would have enough 'dust' inside to fill up a
plant pot and grow something. One day I'll collect them from all of their
various folders and put up a 'rogue's gallery' somewhere. (Sadly I didn't
start taking pics until quite recently, some of the worst machines won't be
represented.)

In various cases dust intake / build-up has caused failure / destruction of
graphics cards, HDDs, motherboards (especially those with on-board graphics)
and even PSUs!

Around 60% of the time a good clean-out 'fixes' the problems they've been
seeing (spontaneous re-boots, BSOD, ssslllooowww machines due to CPU
throttling, screaming / noisy fans). However in the other 40% of instances
components are damaged beyond reasonable reapair.

It's my considered opinion that only an idiot would keep a forced-air cooled
box full of delicate electronic components at floor lever where the most
'dust' is. If the idiot also smokes tobacco and keeps felines the issues are
multiplied by a factor of 5x for each.

Also, as you so rightly mention, USB and other ports are much easier to
access at desk hieght. Less back strain. You'd think it would be obvious....
Click to expand...

Everyone has a dirty computer story to tell :-)

My fave was the computer with the giant hairball inside. The reason I opened
the computer, was the funny sound the fans were making. There was hair packed
in there, right up against the fan blades. Long hair. And was the CPU ever hot...

What I couldn't figure out, was the physics. The fans weren't that powerful,
and the fans weren't facing the user. Even if you pressed your head against
the back of the computer, it would have taken a long time to get that much
hair inside it.

Paul
 
Paul said:
~misfit~ said:
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Paul wrote:
[snip]
One reason for keeping the computer off the floor, is so it sucks in
less dust. And the bonus for keeping it off the floor, is I can access the
back panel easily.
Click to expand...

A-men brother!

I've been taking a few pics of the insides of boxes that have been bought to
me 'to fix' and some of them would have enough 'dust' inside to fill up a
plant pot and grow something. One day I'll collect them from all of their
various folders and put up a 'rogue's gallery' somewhere. (Sadly I didn't
start taking pics until quite recently, some of the worst machines won't be
represented.)

In various cases dust intake / build-up has caused failure / destruction of
graphics cards, HDDs, motherboards (especially those with on-board graphics)
and even PSUs!

Around 60% of the time a good clean-out 'fixes' the problems they've been
seeing (spontaneous re-boots, BSOD, ssslllooowww machines due to CPU
throttling, screaming / noisy fans). However in the other 40% of instances
components are damaged beyond reasonable reapair.

It's my considered opinion that only an idiot would keep a forced-air cooled
box full of delicate electronic components at floor lever where the most
'dust' is. If the idiot also smokes tobacco and keeps felines the issues are
multiplied by a factor of 5x for each.

Also, as you so rightly mention, USB and other ports are much easier to
access at desk hieght. Less back strain. You'd think it would be
Click to expand...
obvious....

Everyone has a dirty computer story to tell :-)

My fave was the computer with the giant hairball inside. The reason I opened
the computer, was the funny sound the fans were making. There was hair packed
in there, right up against the fan blades. Long hair. And was the CPU ever hot...

What I couldn't figure out, was the physics. The fans weren't that powerful,
and the fans weren't facing the user. Even if you pressed your head against
the back of the computer, it would have taken a long time to get that much
hair inside it.

Paul
Click to expand...
---------

Grinder was right, that cables from the front panel are for USB ports - my
mistake. Audio works without connection anything to motherboard's audio
header.
How long works thermopaste on CPU heatsink? Celeron CPU usually running very
hot, I just put one drop of of paste in the center of CPU.. Is it enough,
or I've been too sparing with paste? :))

thanks.
 
Corvet said:
Paul said:
~misfit~ said:
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Paul wrote:
[snip]
One reason for keeping the computer off the floor, is so it sucks in
less dust. And the bonus for keeping it off the floor, is I can access the
back panel easily.
A-men brother!

I've been taking a few pics of the insides of boxes that have been bought to
me 'to fix' and some of them would have enough 'dust' inside to fill up a
plant pot and grow something. One day I'll collect them from all of their
various folders and put up a 'rogue's gallery' somewhere. (Sadly I didn't
start taking pics until quite recently, some of the worst machines won't be
represented.)

In various cases dust intake / build-up has caused failure / destruction of
graphics cards, HDDs, motherboards (especially those with on-board graphics)
and even PSUs!

Around 60% of the time a good clean-out 'fixes' the problems they've been
seeing (spontaneous re-boots, BSOD, ssslllooowww machines due to CPU
throttling, screaming / noisy fans). However in the other 40% of instances
components are damaged beyond reasonable reapair.

It's my considered opinion that only an idiot would keep a forced-air cooled
box full of delicate electronic components at floor lever where the most
'dust' is. If the idiot also smokes tobacco and keeps felines the issues are
multiplied by a factor of 5x for each.

Also, as you so rightly mention, USB and other ports are much easier to
access at desk hieght. Less back strain. You'd think it would be
Click to expand...
obvious....
Everyone has a dirty computer story to tell :-)

My fave was the computer with the giant hairball inside. The reason I opened
the computer, was the funny sound the fans were making. There was hair packed
in there, right up against the fan blades. Long hair. And was the CPU ever hot...
What I couldn't figure out, was the physics. The fans weren't that powerful,
and the fans weren't facing the user. Even if you pressed your head against
the back of the computer, it would have taken a long time to get that much
hair inside it.

Paul
Click to expand...
---------

Grinder was right, that cables from the front panel are for USB ports - my
mistake. Audio works without connection anything to motherboard's audio
header.
How long works thermopaste on CPU heatsink? Celeron CPU usually running very
hot, I just put one drop of of paste in the center of CPU.. Is it enough,
or I've been too sparing with paste? :))

thanks.
Click to expand...

You can experiment with the paste.

Place a small dot of paste, about half a grain of rice sized dot, on
top of the processor.

Press the heatsink into the paste, using the fastener for the heatsink.

Then, remove the heatsink, and observe the size of the circular spread
out mass you see on the top of the processor.

Clean off the excess paste. Wipe it clean. Apply fresh paste. This
time, scale up the size of the dot of paste, so it will spread to
fill the entire surface. If the original paste spread to the size of
a dollar coin, perhaps a full sized rice grain of paste is required.

If all goes well, after seating the heatsink for the second time, and
fastening it down, you'll see the paste "wetting" the joint between
the two surfaces, as observed around the sides of the assembly. To
observe the heatsink properly, it is best to install the heatsink while
the motherboard is outside the case. To check it while the motherboard
is inside the case, you'd need a tiny mirror of some sort, and a strong
light source.

Too much paste, functions as an insulator. Too much paste, and the paste
can get into the socket contacts, cover SMT components on the processor
(on an S462 processor). Too little paste, and air will fill the gap
between the two surfaces, and the processor will run hotter than it is
supposed to.

*******

Various examples of paste installation instructions, can be found here
for download.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/instructions.htm

Paul
 
Paul said:
Corvet said:
Paul said:
~misfit~ wrote:
Somewhere on teh intarwebs Paul wrote:
[snip]
One reason for keeping the computer off the floor, is so it sucks in
less dust. And the bonus for keeping it off the floor, is I can
Click to expand...
access
the
back panel easily.
A-men brother!

I've been taking a few pics of the insides of boxes that have been bought to
me 'to fix' and some of them would have enough 'dust' inside to fill
Click to expand...
up
a
plant pot and grow something. One day I'll collect them from all of their
various folders and put up a 'rogue's gallery' somewhere. (Sadly I didn't
start taking pics until quite recently, some of the worst machines
Click to expand...
won't
be
represented.)

In various cases dust intake / build-up has caused failure /
Click to expand...
destruction
of
graphics cards, HDDs, motherboards (especially those with on-board graphics)
and even PSUs!

Around 60% of the time a good clean-out 'fixes' the problems they've been
seeing (spontaneous re-boots, BSOD, ssslllooowww machines due to CPU
throttling, screaming / noisy fans). However in the other 40% of instances
components are damaged beyond reasonable reapair.

It's my considered opinion that only an idiot would keep a forced-air cooled
box full of delicate electronic components at floor lever where the most
'dust' is. If the idiot also smokes tobacco and keeps felines the
Click to expand...
issues
are
multiplied by a factor of 5x for each.

Also, as you so rightly mention, USB and other ports are much easier to
access at desk hieght. Less back strain. You'd think it would be obvious....
Everyone has a dirty computer story to tell :-)

My fave was the computer with the giant hairball inside. The reason I opened
the computer, was the funny sound the fans were making. There was hair packed
in there, right up against the fan blades. Long hair. And was the CPU
Click to expand...
ever
hot...
What I couldn't figure out, was the physics. The fans weren't that powerful,
and the fans weren't facing the user. Even if you pressed your head against
the back of the computer, it would have taken a long time to get that much
hair inside it.

Paul
Click to expand...
---------

Grinder was right, that cables from the front panel are for USB ports - my
mistake. Audio works without connection anything to motherboard's audio
header.
How long works thermopaste on CPU heatsink? Celeron CPU usually running very
hot, I just put one drop of of paste in the center of CPU.. Is it enough,
or I've been too sparing with paste? :))

thanks.
Click to expand...

You can experiment with the paste.

Place a small dot of paste, about half a grain of rice sized dot, on
top of the processor.

Press the heatsink into the paste, using the fastener for the heatsink.

Then, remove the heatsink, and observe the size of the circular spread
out mass you see on the top of the processor.

Clean off the excess paste. Wipe it clean. Apply fresh paste. This
time, scale up the size of the dot of paste, so it will spread to
fill the entire surface. If the original paste spread to the size of
a dollar coin, perhaps a full sized rice grain of paste is required.

If all goes well, after seating the heatsink for the second time, and
fastening it down, you'll see the paste "wetting" the joint between
the two surfaces, as observed around the sides of the assembly. To
observe the heatsink properly, it is best to install the heatsink while
the motherboard is outside the case. To check it while the motherboard
is inside the case, you'd need a tiny mirror of some sort, and a strong
light source.

Too much paste, functions as an insulator. Too much paste, and the paste
can get into the socket contacts, cover SMT components on the processor
(on an S462 processor). Too little paste, and air will fill the gap
between the two surfaces, and the processor will run hotter than it is
supposed to.

*******

Various examples of paste installation instructions, can be found here
for download.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/instructions.htm

Paul
Click to expand...
---------------------------

Tinkering with CPU and heatsink is difficult enough.. Seating the heatsink
forward and back isn't so easy. I would prefer not to repeat that step
again, the heatsink circle (surface) is small enough. I just put one drop of
paste on the center, is it enough, normally?
 
Corvet said:
Tinkering with CPU and heatsink is difficult enough.. Seating the heatsink
forward and back isn't so easy. I would prefer not to repeat that step
again, the heatsink circle (surface) is small enough. I just put one drop of
paste on the center, is it enough, normally?
Click to expand...

It is best to err on the abundance side, so put a full sized
grain of rice and fasten it down.

In this example, you might apply 50% more than is shown here, because
if it oozes out a bit, it will rest on the organic (green colored) substrate.
Notice how a good paste is thick enough to stand up a bit. If the
paste is runny, it isn't good stuff. My tube of paste is many
years old, and the chemical components have separated a bit,
so I have to mix mine around a bit now. When it was new
it wasn't like that and was well mixed.

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/7411/blobrj9.jpg

Paul
 
Back
Top